a2ndopinion

I'm thinking ornament hooks might work too. I'll be working on it this week, but am also wondering the best way to get power to them. I'm seriously considering installing a watertight outlet outside, wired off of the outlet on the dinette seat cabinet.

Most of them do, causing codes ranging from P0710 through P0714, all temp sensor codes, including low input and high input.

This is ridiculous. Q ) Where does the fluid flow originate? A ) The pan It is picked up through the screen, then the pump, then into the system, where some is directed to the cooler, and the rest goes through the torque converter, then the valve body and then to apply clutches and bands, and lubricate planetary gear sets... The fluid going to the cooler is not necessarily the hottest.

My '87 Dolphin has a pilot light for the water heater (not "hot water heater" - why would you heat hot water?). I believe ALL of the furnaces are auto light, and as Bob said, they require GOOD 12v to burn. Mine will spin the fan, but not light if the 12v source is insufficient.

The pump picks up the fluid and sends a portion through the cooler, depending on the amount of fluid pressure/quantity of flow. The cooled fluid then flows through the rest of the trans circuit. That is why I say the pan is the best place to monitor temperature. And as I said earlier and elsewhere, it is only a portion of the fluid that gets sent through the cooler, which is why the pan is the best place to monitor the trans temp. Also, the warmer the fluid is, the better it is to filter. That is why I have a large (Ford/MOPAR) filter in-line (PL30001, 51515 (heaven forbid a Fram PH8a)...) on the hot side from the trans.

I don't know how well that'll work with Portland's rain and temperatures varying between 25 and 50, but it's worth a try. Thanks!

I'm sure this isn't related at all, but FWIW... There is one more ground for the engine - the driveshaft. It is much more effective in a manual trans vehicle than an auto, but it is a ground. I was talking with a guy at a trans shop, and he said they were baffled when they drove a car in, but they went to start it after pulling the driveshaft, and it wouldn't start...

No, I haven't put an engine in it yet.

Again, straight into the pan will give you the same temp, less parts and no pressure to cause leaks. Besides, it gives you a reason to drop the pan and see how much clutch debris may be in the pan and metallic debris on the magnet(s), and then add a couple qts of fresh fluid.

I bought two strings of lights (200 lights, 52' total length) to put around the outside of my Dolphin last night, but when I got home, it dawned on me that I hadn't thought about how to hang them. Any ideas? PS - no offense intended by the word "Christmas" to those who do not partake in Christmas, but I refuse to call them "seasons", "winter", whatever. Just as I say Merry Christmas. If you celebrate something else, then reply with that, such as "Happy Hanukkah".

When I said "jump" I was meaning straight to the starter, to bypass other possible issues, and jump the solenoid as well - basically the same as bench testing, but without removing the starter and testing it under engine cranking load as well. If it works that way, you know the issue isn't the battery or starter.

Putting it in the line to the cooler isn't going to really tell you how hot the fluid got, as that is fluid out of the pan which would be more of an average, but is probably the most effective place. Me myself would just drop the pan and put a bung in it and mount the sensor there. No worry about pressure resulting in a leak. Also, not ALL of the fluid goes to the cooler. There is a pressure valve, so when pump pressure is higher than the cooler and lines should see, it bypasses the cooler. That is one of the reasons why I have more cooler than I need, and run it through the radiator trans cooler AFTER the aux cooler. That way, on cold days, I can ensure that the trans isn't running too cold. I also have a large filter in the line to the cooler, which makes it very easy to change. The screen in the pan does very little good. Anything big enough to get caught in the screen probably came from somewhere it shouldn't have, which means failure is occurring.

I'm with Derek. It can't be a short, as the battery voltage would drop. Either the starter is no good (try jumping or bench testing), or you have an open somewhere - bad ground, fusable link...

"Turning over" means the starter is engaged and is turning the engine - rrrrrrr - but no start. If that's the issue, it's not the starter or the battery. It would then be ignition (spark) or fuel. If it's not turning over, it's either the battery, starter, or a bad connection somewhere, be it a fuse, fusable link, corrosion...An engine needs four things to run - air, fuel, spark and compression, and they have to happen at the correct time. Shy of the dreaded '83 and newer single row timing chain in a 22R/RE, or a timing belt in a V6, the timing shouldn't be an issue. So you need to check for fuel and spark.

Ahh! Pull up! I was wondering why turning them did nothing.

One PITA with the "P motor" (VIN code) is the "opti-spark" distributor is mounted behind the water pump where it is driven directly off of the cam. It is dependable, but is just something else to think about.

What exactly do you mean by ?Does the starter actually turn the engine (over)? I've had problems in the past with incorrect descriptions of symptoms.

These are my fur babies. Nova, the dog is 1/2 Shepard, 1/4 Rot and 1/4 Chow. Yes, she does have the black Chow tongue. Ocey is the female cat next to her. Three of the other cats are her brothers - left to right - Silver, Bengi and Charlie, and the one in the back is their "step brother", Pumpkin. Their mother is one of my daughters cat, who had lived with us until we moved into the Dolphin.

Just a little bit of size difference! I always figure that the bigger filter gives you more oil capacity (check oil level warm, shortly after shutting off engine, before filter partially drains), and it gives you much more filter area. I had a comment years ago from a guy stating that his oil pressure was lower with the larger filter - umm yeah, lees resistance in the filter?

FYI, in my Lexus LS400, and on all of my 2xR/RE powered Celicas and Coronas, I run the "big Ford oil filter", the Purolator PL30001 (rated one of the best on various oil test web sites), or at least the Wix/NAPA 51515, but NEVER a Fram PH8a (friends don't let friends use Fram).

Now my input. With my '81 Corona wagon with an A40D trans (currently), I've added an inline filter (spin on, Ford type - Purolator 30001, NAPA/Wix 51515, Fram (heaven forbid) PH8a...) on the hot side of the cooler line (hot fluid filters better), then through a huge aftermarket cooler, then through the factory radiator cooler. I've had many people tell me that it should go through the factory cooler first, but my reasoning is that in cold weather, the factory cooler can actually warm the fluid, as 170 seems to be the ideal temp for trans fluid. Colder, it doesn't have the correct flow rate, and warmer begins excess wear. This car has towed many other RWD Celicas, Coronas, a utility trailer, a couple Mk I Supras, and a Cressida, and with a built 22R has been severely abused, but with probably 350,000 miles, still works great!!! BTW, I use the same Purolator filter on the engine, and on the 1UZ in my Lexus. I always figure that if I can fit a bigger filter, use it!

Donnie, please continue. I know a lot about auto transmissions and understand stall speed, but don't have the answer to your example (although I think I know most of the answer).

Hmm - or maybe "oops" would be better. That one way valve goes on the outlet side of the water heater? What is its purpose? When I changed my tank, I didn't pay much attention, then when I went to put it back together, I thought it was to stop hot water from flowing back towards the fresh water tank. And what are these two valves for?

I think you mean "CO" detector. That's carbonMONOXIDE, not dioxide. Yes, sitting on top of the microwave, The water heater pan is sealed properly, so no outside air can come inside, including exhaust. Oh, and yes, it does a great job heating the water. I turn the heat down as low as it'll go at night, so it's about 58 degrees inside, but obviously, with the nights sitting at the low 30s, the furnace cycles at night, then I turn it up when I get up, and by shower time, the "hot water" is warm enough to take a very comfortable shower! Kinda makes me wonder if I'll ever "fix" it.

I finally had time on a dry day to swap out the tank. I got a new one for $155 shipped, so went that option instead of a new heater. Unfortunately, the t-stay assembly would not come out of the old one in one piece, so here goes another $78 for a new one. Maybe upgrading to a new, electric pilot, 10 gallon unit wasn't a bad idea. Oh well, live and learn. To temporarily get hot water, I am routing the furnace exhaust through the water heater. Does anyone see any problem with this?