ednelson100

On our recent trip we pulled in to the RV park at night and notice the whole front window was smashed to bits and glass inside. Have no idea how it happened. I used this from home Depot and haven't decided how to paint it yet Glasliner 4 ft. x 8 ft. White .090 FRP Wall Board https://www.homedepot.com/p/Glasliner-4-ft-x-8-ft-White-090-FRP-Wall-Board-MFTF12IXA480009600/100389836

I kept having a small leak on the driver side corner of the window and I did everything that you mentioned above and finally figured out it was actually from one of the running lights above the window. Water was running down hitting the window and going around it so I would make sure those running lights are sealed up real good.

I replaced my driver's seat with Honda Civic 2002 I think. I used that one because it had an arm rest on the right side. So much more comfortable than the original Toyota seat. After driving all day my hip would always hurt from the Toyota seat but not with the Honda Civic seat. It was not a direct fit and I had to do a little modifying.

I went to millsupply.com and I tried searching on Velvac truck mirrors and still couldn't find them. Which truck section were they in, Ford, Chevrolet, GM?

I have the same year and model as you though my tank doesn't look as Rusty as yours I had similar problems. I was at a U-Haul and they couldn't get it filled and said I need to have the tank recertified and repaired then I went to a regular RV dealer and had the same problem but the technician just whacked it with a rubber mallet where they attach the hose while he was feeling it and that cleared it up and I never had the problem again and he said sometimes the valves will just stick.

I am over 200,000 miles on my motor and never had a problem with injectors but I did have to change spark plug wires when one went bad. I learned that even genuine Toyota wires don't last forever.

I once tried to replace it with a short one from AutoZone it didn't fit fit and pore reception so I would like to know too

Yes I used the rebuild kit and if you Google you can find somebody that gives step by step instructions on how to rebuild it using grease to hold the balls bearings in place. I now know you can just replace the upper seal which was leaking without taking the whole assembly apart that's what I did on the replacement gearbox I bought from the junkyard. Rebuilding it is not that easy but can be done if you have to.

My steering box was making a loud clank when the steering turned all the way in One direction so I rebuilt it with the help of an Internet post of someone that had done it before me. It seemed to be fine but one year later it went completely bad and I had to replace it with a used one I found at the junkyard. I discovered I had adjusted that top adjustment incorrectly and if it's even a half turn miss-adjusted that will ruin it after a few thousand miles, so be careful adjusting it.

Though the ECM rarely goes bad, I have an extra one for sale that I wanted to post in case someone needed one now or in the future. From 1991 3.0/3VZE. It had no issues when I removed it from my 1991 Itasca.

When I did mine I did not look for a stud, I just drilled all the way through in to the closet and then a 4" X 1" inch thick board with washers and nuts in the closet.

But what about the price?

I have been wondering that too for several years. I searched salvage yards and took pictures and came to the conclusion it was just too big of a job and never concluded if it would work or not. Could not find any instances of Toyota owners doing it so scrapped that idea. Using the universal manual to power window conversion kit was pretty easy and cheap.

I did take it a step further and also installed power windows. Came as entire set from ebay. The last picture is of before and after of the key fob that I had to order separately. The locksmith could not shape the key fob key into a duplicate of the Toyota key. It took a lot of Dremel drilling, filing, and epoxy to remove the key stem from the the old Toyota key insert it into the new key fob and then remove the small circuit board that came with the power lock remote and get it to fit into the new key fob.

I swapped my seats with a 2002 Honda Civic which were so much more comfortable and had a right side arm rest. I did have to do some drilling of holes on the sliders to bolt them on but it worked great. I would save those seats if I were you and then try to match them up if you can later. I am sure they will work with maybe a little(or maybe a lot of modification).

Oh and if you do get them out yourself please take pictures and let us know step by step how you did it thanks

You better read this link first as far as I know no one has been able to get those things out by themselves. jjrbus had his local neighborhood workshop wrench guy get them out but I think it took him like two days. I tried and failed but I didn't have a 20 ton press I think that would have worked. The rental tool for pressing out control arm bushings from AutoZone wouldn't work because the size and the design of those control arms made it not fit in there correctly even trying all the adapters.

I wouldn't replace the calipers unless you're having an issue with them but that's just my opinion. I believe the front brakes use make and model of a three-quarter ton Toyota dually PU but I'm sure one of these forum toy experts can tell you for sure.

I know when I did my breaks I took the rotors to two or three different shops until I found one that could turn them because the whole is so big in the center. nowadays a lot of people with other vehicles don't even get them turned because you can buy new ones so cheap online but I never looked into replacing them.

This tool is also available as a free rental tool from AutoZone or O'Reilly's

This looks like the tool you can get for rental from AutoZone free that I tried and would not work. I believe you can search this forum for upper control arm and read about other people that have tried to get those bushings out and have failed. If you're planning to replace them anyway you can just use a sawzall or hacksaw and cut the old one out if you want to go that route. Here's a picture of how I got mine out. Kind of ugly looking but it worked.

This looks like the tool you can get for rental from AutoZone free that I tried and would not work. I believe you can search this forum for upper control arm and read about other people that have tried to get those bushings out and have failed. If you're planning to replace them anyway you can just use a sawzall or hacksaw and cut the old one out if you want to go that route. Here's a picture of how I got mine out. Kind of ugly looking but it worked.

"Ok.will do. In the mean time got the upper arm unbolted. Won’t come out because of the bar that bolts on back. Do I have to remove the bushings to get if off? Should I buy another tool to remove the bushings?" Not sure if yours is like my 92 ITASCA but when I did mine I did have to cut a piece of the inner fender to get the control arm out and then after spending 3 hours trying to get the upper control arm bushings out (burning, sawing, several ways of pressing) I gave up and just ordered a whole assembly from ebay that was really cheap and has held up ok so far.

I don't think those guys will drive down to San Antonio TX to put in power locks for me so I'm just going to do it myself, thanks.

This is great, thanks for sharing. I am going to do it too and maybe I'll finally get around to putting power windows in also.