BobBeery

I am looking to replace shocks and steering damper on my 94 Warrior. I have the bilsein part numbers for the shocks front and rear. Is the Moog box is the photo above your steering damper? If so, do you have the Moog part number, and what site did you order from, please?

The guys at my tire shop remember doing those welded wheels and told me just how they did it. They also told be that they are sure happy I don't have those on my rig. Belleroc Tire, Traverse City Mich.

I have completely finished installing and checking my new converter section. Everything works right. There is no overheating. House battery goes to a full charge and it is then switched to a 13.2V maintenance level. Just a couple odd things about my particular case. 1) The entire old unit (Magnatech 6332) was held in with 2 screws on each side. But the unit had been pushed to the left side of the opening at the factory install so the 2 screws on the left went into good wood but the 2 screws on the right just went through the upholstery fabric and grazed wood. I moved it over, drilled new holes, and got into good wood for all 4 screws. 2) The factory had added a bar across the top back of the original converter section to hold some wire retaining clips. I had to dismount that bar to get the old convert out, and reinstall it after inserting the new converter. I had to drill 2 holes to remount it. 3) The 12V circuit board in the old unit did not exactly match that shown in the instructions for the new converter. I had to trace wires and also put a voltmeter on some of them to make sure I was identifying every wire correctly. Turns out my guesses were all correct but I did not want to install based on guesses and maybe ruin something. It was time consuming and irritating to have to do this but I am glad I made SURE of every wire.

Today I connected the wires to the 30A self-resetting circuit breaker and am pleased to report SUCESS. For convenience I checked voltages at the connectors on the converter's 12V circuit board. With no shore power and engine off I read 12.56V for the house battery. After starting the engine and while it was still on fast idle the voltage at the same connectors read 13.46V. Upon shutting off the engine the reading went to 12.88V dropping to 12.87V while I still had the probes touching. So-- It works. Driving down the road will now charge the house battery, and that is really all I cared about. Thanks to all who contributed to this thread. I am done with it now but others may still post if you wish.

To clarify the original question, two points. First, the isolator appears very new, like either this summer or at most last summer. The wire from the engine battery to the isolator is black at the battery, spliced to nice clean red less than a foot from the isolator. The red part had the 30A fuse in it. Fuse was about one-half inch square. So based on appearances I would say that this is NOT original Winnebago wiring. Second, I don't know when the fuse blew. When I test drove the Warrior before buying it, the battery under the hood was dead. We had to jump it to start the engine. And days later when I paid for it and drove it home, the house battery was too dead to get any ceiling lights to turn on. Both these dead batteries suggest that the alternator would be at high output upon starting the engine. I have been very busy but did manage to mount a self-resetting 30A circuit breaker right next to the isolator. I am hoping to put the wires on it today and expect the problem to be fixed.

Thanks, Don. I never thought of putting it up there but that should be perfect.

I live in Michigan but need a Chicago Ipass. I want to order by phone today ( because their order website is down today for a new install). Question is mounting the transponder. If I put it on the windshield as recommended will the over-cab bunk interfere with the signal? They have a special transponder that mounts on the front bumper license plate spot. Would I need to get one of those instead?

OOps. Correction--This one is from Winnebago not National RV.

I had forgot that alternators put out that many amps. There is no writing of any kind visible on the isolator as it is mounted.so don't know its rate. But all the wires on the isolator are small, #10 at best and maybe #12 but I don't think National RV would have stooped to #12. So I am glad the 30A fuse blew. I will try replacing it with a breaker.

I found a 30A fuse in the wire from the engine battery to the isolator. This fuse is blown which explains why the house battery did not charge when I was driving. The question is why did it blow? What would have caused it? I have only had this Toy for a few weeks. Note--the isolator is bright shiny metal and looks brand new. I will put in a new fuse as soon as I get one, today or tomorrow.

This will no longer matter to me in three days. My new converter upgrade/replacement was delivered today. I am on the road now but will be home to install it Friday.

Good idea Fred. I got 12.51v with engine not running and 12.51v with engine running. The battery under the hood stays charged so the alternator works. Either the Isolator is not connecting, or the current from the alternator is wired through the converter. I will be replacing the converter next week so I will see what happens then.

My first Toyota MH did have a fuel warning light. That was an 87 Dolphin with 4cyl 22RE engine. Then I went to a 90 Dolphin with V6 and then to a 94 Warrior with V6 and neither has the warning light. I really miss it. but yes there are some Toys out there with the light.

I know that the house battery normally charges through the isolator while I am driving. Does that juice from the alternator also go through the 12v converter after the isolator or not? Reason I'm asking is that I have disconnected my converter from the circuit breaker while on shore power. When I go on the road will I have to reconnect the converter in order to charge the house battery by driving?

I am happy for you. That is the way it is supposed to work. On mine the fan came on but it just kept getting hotter.

A happy battery will make my CPAP happy. I went whole hog and also bought the remote on a wire.

I thought it would come to this. Best converter has a 35A 'converter upgrade section' available to fit the model I have. Price $198.50 plus about $16 for shipping. Online directions look simple enough. I was guessing $280-325 for an entire new unit plus lots of hassle keeping all the wires straight so I am ordering this right away. Hope it can come by Saturday because I have a five-night trip starting Sunday. Thanks everybody for info and especially to WME for the link.

Thanks jjrbus, Maineah, and Back East Don. I have shown that turning off the 15A breaker also turns off the battery charger. Disconnecting the POS wire from the battery makes no difference in hum or heat. The hum can be felt as well as heard. It comes from the big bottom half not from the actual breaker. By lifting up the seat of the sofa I was able to make sure that nothing is blocking air circulation. I am able to feel the whole unit except the underneath. With the 15A breaker on it is hottest at the back left. There is some heat on the left side, little heat on the top but no heat on the right side. Everything that draws electricity has been turned off except a factory built-in LP gas detector which has not switch that I can find. Today it took about 2 hours before it got warm enough to kick the fan on. Battery is a Wal-Mart deep cycle marine group 27 dated 3/13. This morning with POS wire disconnected I got 12.34v on my digital meter. Now some background. This is my third Toyhouse. The others both had 25 Amp BK devices and I never paid them much attention but never heard a hum never felt heat and never heard a fan or observed air blown out the front by a fan. This one is a Magnatech series 6300A model 6332 with options C N I B (or 8) date code 4 3 3. I found an operator's pamphlet from Magnatech. The option C means 3A battery charger which tapers the charge and shuts off when batt is fully charged but comes on again if the batt drops below a predetermined level. There is no wiring diagram, schematic, or drawing. Speculation--I know just enough electricity and electronics from 40-50 years ago to get myself in trouble, but....could the hum and heat be coming from a transformer? And sorry to say I need to get this taken care of quickly. I have an overnight stay to do in three days, and in six days I leave on a five day trip. I will have shore power available all nights..

The hum is coming from the load center/converter somewhere, not necessarily from the circuit breaker itself.

Bought a 94 Warrior to replace my 90 Dolphin. It has a 32 amp load center/converter. I found that when on shore power it would get hot enough to start a cooling fan that I didn't know about. And the longer I left it plugged in the hotter it got until it felt a lot like the outside of a toaster. The cooling fan could not keep the heat sufficiently down. Nothing was turned on or running that I know of except a LP gas detector and maybe the battery charging function. This unit has a 30 amp main breaker, a combination breaker with a 15 amp section and a 20 amp section, plus five or six 12v fuses. After trying all the various combinations of breakers on and off I determined that the issue happens with the 15 amp half of the combo breaker. If this is off, there is no heating regardless of other draws. As soon as the 15 amp is turned on I can hear a 60 cycle hum even when there is nothing plugged into any of the outlets. Turning the breaker off stops the hum. If I leave it on with no known load I can feel some warming within half an hour. After more than an hour the unit's cooling fan is running but the temp seems to me to be warm not hot. Then I was out of time and came in to write this post. First, does anybody know which if any breakers or fuses the battery charging function would go through? Second, any ideas about what is wrong, or what can be done to stop the heating, or what other investigation I should do? I have a VOM and also some papers about the unit that were in the toyhouse when I bought it. .

Twelve year old AKC Maltese

Two years ago I had to replace fuel hoses on my 87 Dolphin. Then I moved up to a 90 Dolphin and had to replace fuel hoses on that too. But lucky for me I knew of a radiator shop that also did gas tank work. He had to work in his parking lot because the Dolphins would not go into his work bay. I wonder if it is not too unusual for a radiator shop to also do gas tanks and therefore also fuel hoses? Good luck, and I almost envy your Alaska trip.

From original paperwork from Toyota and Winnebago that came with my 94 Warrior: From Toyota, 6000 GVWR From Winnebago, 6000 GVWR 2300 GAWR FRT 4400 GAWR RR Base weight w/o options and all tanks/storage area empty.................................................................5007 Roof air, 4 burner w/oven, 2500 watt generator, TV antenna, cab upgrade pkg...................................243 Engine fuel 17 gals................................................................................................................................102 Unloaded vehicle weight..(sum of above)............................................................................................5352 Net carrying capacity.............................................................................................................................648 So if fresh water, propane, bedding, tools, clothes, food, electronic devices, toiletries, bike carrier and two bicycles, misc, come to 318 lbs and me and my wife are together 330 lbs, we will not exceed GVWR.

I used google to find out that a GSD was a German Shepherd Dog.

So sorry this happened. I am in the snow belt of Michigan and have to leave mine parked outside with a tarp on it. Some winters I have shoveled off shin deep snow twice because I was worried about the weight. However!! Glad you found your guy and made repairs. I had wondered several times how to rebuild a sagging Dolphin roof. Now at least I know that it can be done.