BobBeery
Toyota Advanced Member-
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Everything posted by BobBeery
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As far as I know, all windows that open had screens.
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I have seen many kinds of tracks for that curtain but they seem to fall into two basic styles, one shaped like a C that has sliders inside the C, and one like a T that has sliders on the stem of the T. The track will run all the way across from one side to the other with a gap at one end just big enough for a slider to be put on or off. All the tracks that I have seen are screwed to the ceiling every 6 to 9 inches. Your mention of little tabs on the ceiling puzzles me, but the variety of fittings on our toys is amazing so it could easily be another style I haven't seen yet. Linda's question above is a good place to start.
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Do you refer to the curtain on the front window or the curtain that separates the bed from the rest of the toy?
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Bufbooth built a roof rack for his canoe. He's had the rack on for several years now.
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Another reason to use a digital t-stat is that they are not affected by being off level. The traditional home stat with mercury switch can be off a fair amount if you are not parked level.
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Yes it fit and it works. I am not at home now and won't be for a month but this is what I remember: part is Skyjacker series 7000. Specific part number is 7186 and has a set of brackets with it. Be sure to get the brackets, you will need them for the end that goes on the tie rod. DO NOT get part number 7900. It is the same damper but without brackets. This will mount normally at the frame end. On the end that goes on the tie rod there will be a new bracket secured by two 'U' bolts. I have been told that Jeeps used a similar clamp but cannot verify this. I bought online free shipping for more than $50 but less than $60.
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My 87 Dolphin had the porch light and outside grabhandle in the same fixture. Switch was immediately below the light lens and behind the handle. The lens on this kind just has tabs on top and bottom and can be pushed off by reaching under the lens and pushing out. If that is where your switch is don't be surprised if the switch works poorly or not at all, it is very exposed to the elements and corrosion is very common.
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I just replaced the converter/charger in the panel of my 94 Warrior. Old panel was Magnatech model 6332 (meaning series 6300 and 32 amps) New converter direct replacement is a Progressive Dynamics 4600 I bought online from Best RV and Truck Supply for $187.50 plus 16.12 shipping.
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Fall Mid-West Toyota RV Rally will be Oct. 6-9, 2016 in Illinois
BobBeery replied to Tika's topic in Rallies & Toy Ins
Excuse my ignorance but what is a CHL permit? -
I have had them without a ladder and with, I will always take with. My current Toy the ladder I think was added or replaced. First the square bumper was remounted to be more secure. Then the ladder bottom is fastened to the bumper. And there are two mid supports not just one. Result is a very secure ladder.
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The cable from the battery will end in the electric breaker box on the circuit board that has the 12V fuses. Some boards have printing to label the lugs, such as BATT or NEG or COMM. And some boards have lugs on the back as well as the front.
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Depends on your route. In Traverse City Michigan there is a shop that is pretty good at repairing existing gas tanks. Coil's, 231-947-4515
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I vote for the separate circuit to bypass the converter. Here's why--all the electric boxes I have seen have two sections, a 110 load center with breakers and a converter that produces 12V to a fuse panel and also to charge your deep cycle. The converter section will automatically stop drawing down the deep cycle when 110 is supplied. Because the converter is always trying to charge the deep cycle when 110 is present; If you feed the 110 from the inverter into the shore power, you set up a circle you don't want--from deep cycle to inverter to converter back to deep cycle. With a separate circuit this will not happen. There is POSSIBLY one other way to prevent the circle mentioned above. You could determine which 110 breaker feeds the refrigerator and which breaker feeds the converter section. IF they are different breakers you could turn off the one to the converter BUT you would have to do this every time. Turning off that breaker may also disable charging the deep cycle through the isolator. In my Toy the refrigerator and converter are on the same 110 breaker so messing with the breakers would be pointless.
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Yes, specifically the #7900. I ordered one today from Autoanything.com so cannot yet verify that it is right until it arrives. I was concerned about the ends shown in the photo not matching what is on my 94 Warrior, but the man on the phone at Autoanything assures me that the photo is not the actual part and that the actual part will be right. I hope to know by Saturday.