BobBeery

When you say none of the electric works, do you mean both 12V DC and household 110V AC? Things to try-- find the electric panel/converter. It is usually down by your ankles. Open just the top of the front and try resetting the circuit breakers. You can do this safely even when the rig is plugged into shore power. Then if it is not plugged in to shore power, do that. This may solve problems with 110V AC. There will also be a row of small 12V fuses like cars and trucks have. Put a multimeter across a fuse or fuse holder to check for voltage. 12.5V is good. No voltage could mean there is no battery in the house, or that it is dead, or that it is not connected properly to the electric panel. Voltage between 0 and 12.5means you need to charge the house battery.

I always wanted to know this so I could take a screen in to a shop and get new screen fabric installed. Thanks to Linda, I was just able to go pop out two of my screens in seconds. Don't even need a screwdriver. I just slid the screen sideways a bit so that I could grasp the vertical on each end, then lifted straight up compressing the spring which is in the top . The bottom cleared the track by almost a sixteenth of an inch and I just pulled it to me then lowered the screen until the top was also out. But note this: in my Toy the springs are in the top. In Linda's the springs are on the bottom. So if the screen won't lift up try pushing down and see if it moves at the top first. If neither way works, get a little screwdriver and try what Linda does.

I have had 87 and 90 Dolphins and now have a 94 Winnebago. I have also looked under or crawled under another 15-20 Toyota RV's. On none of these was the leaf spring welded to the frame. at any point. Wish I could get pics to transfer from my phone to my laptop but they won't so words will have to do. As the leaf spring flexes two things happen. One is a small change in length because of less or more curve in the spring. The other is a change in the angle between the frame which does not move and both tip ends of the spring which do pivot slightly. The shackle is a means of allowing for the changing length. It has four sections. One is a bolt with bushing that goes through the frame. Another is a matching bolt with bushing that lies parallel to the first bolt and goes through the end of the spring. The other two sections are links between those two bolts. On my Winnebago one link is welded to the head of both bolts, creating a U shape but laid on its side. After the U is slid into the spring and frame then the other link is put on and held by a nut on the end of each bolt. The two links transfer weight from the frame to the end of the spring. Because the shackle is free to pivot at each end it allows for changing length as the spring flexes and also allows for the slight pivot at the end of the spring Shackles are usually (always?) at the rear end of the spring. Spring end pivot at the front end of the spring is handled by a single bolt/bushing which goes through both frame and spring. Not saying things can't be done another way, just that this is the usual way.

I drove into a telephone wire that shattered mine. I saved all the pieces and glued it back together with a 10minute (5 min?) epoxy that is made specifically for plastic. It is still together after 3-4 years. But I must say that each joint needed 30-40 minutes to become stable, not the 10 or 5 minutes on the package.

Please tell me what the ECM does, and what symptoms would pop up if it were bad. Especially interested in MPG.

Correction to my original post: sway bar parts were energy suspension not prothane. Note to frontboat--replacing leaf spring bushings is a common thing for any shop that works on suspensions, especially one that does pickups or trucks. Not so sure about sway bar bushings and link rubber. God's timing--six days after the work was done I was driving 55 on a two-lane highway after dark. Had headlights on low beam and suddenly saw a deer broadside near the center line. I did a quick left move then a hard right swerve then left again to avoid the ditch. I missed the deer but not by much. Point is the Warrior handled as well as either of my cars would have. I doubt if I would have managed all this if the suspension hadn't been done those six days earlier. Also, remember to go back to high beams after oncoming traffic passes.

Have a 94 Warrior with 99,800 miles on it. I just had the sway bar bushings and link end rubbers replaced (prothane for stiffness), and also all the bushings in the leaf springs (genuine Toyota for softer ride). On the springs, the rear lower and front old bushings had worn clear down to metal to metal contact. Rear upper bushings were much better but still replaced them. The drive home was 30 miles of two lane country roads with a lot of curves, some signed for slower speeds. WOW that a difference in drivability. Less lean in the curves, especially the esses. Cross wind stability is also much better. Now it is easy to stay completely in my own lane. I had done shocks (Bilstein) and steering damper (skyjacker) two years ago but now wish I had done it all at one time.

sounds and looks really nice. I'd like to see it. Problem is the 750 miles one way.

Clever Owl, will that camp stove burn propane in small green cylinders, or white gas (Coleman fuel)?

I have not had this problem, but I might try shutting off the pressure and taking the kitchen fixture apart to clean it. Sounds like some crud got in it. An alternative would be to disconnect the water lines from the fixture, have a big empty pan handy, and BRIEFLY turn on the water. If still no water, it's piping. But if water comes freely, it's the fixture. A new fixture at an RV store should cost far less than a home kitchen fixture.

Utah-Clay, do you have the Airlift part number for that compressor-gauge set? The airlift website gives 10 choices for Toyota micro-mini but none shown have two gauges, although one choice shown has two needles in one gauge.

How are the bushings in the rear leaf springs? Mine are shot. I just bought new bushings but still have to get them in. I expect them to really improve sway and vibration. Will see.

Wow. I have a 94 Warrior and always wished it had a lockup trans but thought it was too old for that. But if a 90 Dolphin has a lockup then I suppose my 94 does too. Sweet. I agree on driving 55 to max fuel economy. If I am in speed limit 75 then I may cheat all the way up to 57.

Another possibility is either a faulty or badly positioned thermocouple. You may need a helper for this, but try holding the button down for a much longer time, say 30 to 45 seconds. This will not damage anything. If it stays lit for as long as you hold the button down, then goes out immediately upon releasing the button, then air is not the problem. The thermocouple has a metal tip which is either right next to the flame or even very slightly in the flame. This tip should glow red for a couple millimeters from the end. If it is not red or only a tiny bit of dull red, let things cool, then push the tip slightly closer to where the flame will be, maybe a millimeter should do it. Try again until you get the tip to glow red. That worked on the fridge in my first Toyota. If that tip glows nicely red but the flame still goes out when you release the button, you probably need to replace the thermocouple.

Different brands of air bags have been used in Toyotas. Mine are the 3T's brand. I have paperwork from 3T's that says to use minimum 20 psi, maximum 100 psi. They don't want you to drive with them completely deflated because of possibly pinching the fabric on a bad bump.

Thanks, Derek. I don't think the difference in weight of lift matters. I've had that Warrior plenty loaded and the 3Ts 2000 lbs has been sufficient. Airlifts are less costly and that always matters. I am just not sure that the airlifts allow as much up and down axle movement on some of the pothole pounding roads I sometimes have to use.

https---www.airliftcompany.com-shop-57113-.url I've been looking at these airlift. My Warrior has the 3T's T9 airlift bags but one side won't stay up. How much vertical motion do these 57113's allow? The airlift page doesn't say.

Or a place that makes awnings for retailers, motels, and other commercial locations.

State DMVs can do unexpected things. My first Toyhouse was licensed and titled in Pennsylvania. When I brought it to Michigan they changed the make from Dolphin to National Recreational Vehicle M900.

On July 8, 2017 ednelson 100 posted a photo of a damper--a skyjacker hydro 7000. I put this on my 94 Warrior at the suggestion of Ken Wery who showed me his at a Toyota rally. It is working well for me. If you order one, that 7000 is a series number, there is a specific part number for our Toyotas. Be sure to order the one WITH brackets because the end on the driver's side clamps to the link with two U-bolts like on a Jeep. And cost was less than half what a genuine Toyota part runs.

Bushings ordered. Local Toyota dealer price for the 12 bushings totaled $76.04 plus tax. Toyotapartsdeal.com (Thank you Linda S.) put the 12 at 44.88 plus 11.75 shipping, so 56.63 plus tax. Local NAPA (Thank you WME) put the 4 upper at 2.79 each but could not find a cross-reference from Toyota-to-NAPA for the 8 eye bushings. He also called their help desk and they could not cross-reference it either. I didn't think to ask for a full set kit, maybe they would have had it. I wanted them ordered today so I used Toyotapartsdeal.

Getting ready to replace all the rubber in the leaf springs and sway bars. I have good sources for aftermarket sway bar parts but want to use real Toyota bushings for the leaf springs because vibration is an issue and rubber instead of poly should help that. Does anybody have an on-line source for genuine Toyota parts that would charge less than the local dealer? How about the part numbers as well? For 94 Warrior. And thanks to WME and Linda S. for info in other posts that has helped me out at times.

None of our Toy houses are set up to charge the engine battery from shore power or a generator. That is part of having the isolator between the two batteries. The alternator with engine running is the only way to charge it unless your rig has been modified. You can also charge that battery with an external battery charger just like you would charge a car's battery when it is low. You could plug it into one of the house outlets but you will have to have a charger and each time hook it up and unhook it. Sorry I don't know anything about the voltages you mention at certain ports.

Interesting side note: When I put in my VIN on this site, it came up as a 4-runner, not a pickup

Thanks, Linda. I am hoping to use urethane bushings everywhere on the sway bars, but on the leaf spring bushings I want rubber so real Toyota parts will be just fine. Bob B