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lopezg273

Toyota Advanced Member
  • Content Count

    55
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About lopezg273

  • Rank
    ShootingFishInABarrel
  • Birthday November 17

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    www.gregorylopez.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Motorcycles (Touring), XC Mountain Biking, Golf, Snow Skiing, Travel. IG: hellatraveling

Previous Fields

  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1990 Toyota Dolphin / 1978 Toyota Keystone
  • Location
    MIA - LAX - PHX - SFO

Recent Profile Visitors

406 profile views
  1. There is a YouTuber couple that attempted something like this (actually, a bit simpler) and the biggest issue (out of a myriad of issues) as I recall was getting axle ratios to match. Basically, matching a 1/2-ton front axle to a 3/4-ton rear. I recall that after they finally put it together, they experienced a catastrophic failure on the freeway (the axle didn't fail, but one of the dualies came off the RV). Anyway, they drove it around for a very short time but were too scared after that so they finally sold it and I think they went back to a Tacoma or Tundra truck with a camper.
  2. That'll buff right out. Only kidding, but what I was told by a body man when my mom's '88 Toyota had to have its bumper replaced is that the bumpers aren't really that tough. They don't have to comply with safety standards that cars do (like the 5MPH standard) and so they are mainly decorative pieces. Frame damage should not be an issue.
  3. My opinion is that to get a better... opinion... from the peanut gallery is that we need more information. How much oil do you have to add, and how often? Did the mechanic check for oil in the coolant (he probably did, but just asking). Oil can just really go to the following places: 1. Into the combustion chambers, and out the tailpipe as smoke* if your piston rings are bad. 2. Into the coolant, which then makes the coolant look all oily and stuff. Or sometimes the coolant goes into the oil, which makes the oil turn into mayonnaise (the inedible kind). This would hap
  4. The battery on my '89 Dolphin sits, for all practical purposes, right under the rear dinette seat. It's in it's own box but accessing it is quite easy from the inside, so I just spliced into the main + wire and a ground (that was harder to find because wood cabinets), but I found it. Then I bought this thing, and also this thing, and then some of this stuff , wired it using some electrical supplies (spades, connectors) and (I can't emphasize this enough), because I don't know what I'm doing half the time, I wired it in the only way I know will work, which is in parallel. You can watch Y
  5. I see people doing all sorts of math trying to decide how much power they should get, and then covering their entire roof in solar panels and having "battery banks" and comparing minutia like if it's better to have mono or poly solar panels, etc.. And then deciding whether a 600W, 12V system is good enough or whether they should go 24V, and the pros and cons. I agree with you, it's too much. I think having a 100AH battery with a 100W solar panel is enough and comprises just a basic system. I charge my electronics during the day so they're fully charged at night. My lights are
  6. I also didn't plan on driving around too much at night. I usually start looking for a boondocking spot way before sundown but after having to move from a Planet Fitness parking lot a couple of times at 2AM and other times where it's run into the evening before I reach a boondocking spot on a questionable gravel road I started to get an appreciation for how important good lights are.
  7. One wiring kit covers both headlights.
  8. I've had this little baby bookmarked so I can buy it when it gets down closer to $700. I've done a bunch of research on LiFePo4 batteries, there's a guy on YouTube who has a lot of info on solar, batteries, and such. His name is Will Prowse, and using some of his reviews and other information I think this is the best option/price for me. There are cheaper 100AH options out there, but then you're looking at some that are "built", and no probable support, no good circuitry and temperature protection, yada yada. I'd suggest you go with a 100AH MINIMUM, one that fits in the space you have,
  9. I can give you some pre and some post-installation impressions myself, as I've ordered the parts to do it on my '89 Dolphin (should be the same chassis as yours). The lights I purchased were these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-5x7-7x6-Led-Hi-Lo-Beam-Headlights-for-Ford-GMC-Chevrolet-Jeep-Cherokee-XJ/162824101580?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 I would recommend buying some like this type (some go as high as like $200 per unit) because of the light pattern; and not buy the cheap ones which are just a collection of LED's without a pattern, you'll be blin
  10. As soon as I get to home base, I plan on removing the spare in my '90 Dolphin and not carrying a spare at all. I have an air compressor and a plug kit in case I get a flat. I don't really off-road my RV all that much (and I think you're silly if you do). I also have a PMS on the rear two tires and I'm meticulous as far as monitoring the health and pressure on my tires. I think I can catch and fix my own flats - how hard can it be? What could possibly go wrong? (I'm not very risk-averse) Anyone have any experience not carrying that lead weight on the back of your rig? Pros and c
  11. I'm not an expert but I've done a bunch of research and resealed my 1990 Dolphin roof as follows: - I used Dicor 501LSW lap sealant on all the joints (that's where you'll get a lot of the leaks) on the ROOF (it's important, because this uses gravity to cover, so it does not work on vertical applications). It works fantastic; you have to clean the area thoroughly, scrape any old sealant, then apply and this stuff sinks down and covers really well. I bought a bunch on eBay, for like $10 each (I bought a case). It goes a long way, I ended up not using as much as I thought and re-sold the
  12. I have an LED one that I purchased on eBay for like $15 and works just fine. I have a Renogy Wanderer solar charge controller with bluetooth and an iPhone app and when I check battery charge using that, it always shows the same voltage as my $15 eBay volt meter, so....
  13. I'll have to look. I thought the same, that maybe there was like a rod or something, so I looked at holes up above on the coach itself but didn't see anything obvious.
  14. I'm working on restoring my 1978 Toyota Keystone Micro Mini. This bracket is mounted to the rear bumper. Can anyone tell me what goes there?
  15. It's like buying a house AND a car at the same time. You'll save a lot of money if you yourself identify what you need and take it one step at a time. My recommendation is to start with the "car" part. It will probably need at the very least: A battery, all fluids changed, tires (look for the code to see how old they are, in case they look good they may be old and dry-rotted), belts, brakes, coolant, spark plugs, wires, air filter, all that stuff. For that, treat it like a car and just have someone handy look into it and buy parts for a 1980 Toyota truck (there is no need to buy
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