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Derek up North

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Everything posted by Derek up North

  1. I believe the Rader was also made by the same company. Dabbling!
  2. That would be 'Four Seasons' with their 'Pioneer' model (with the slide). [media=]
  3. Sounds like you're looking for a copy of this- http://openlibrary.org/books/OL2407683M/How_to_keep_your_Toyota_pickup_alive This link might work:- http://dl.dropbox.com/u/17506795/Toyota_Pickup_Idiot_Book.pdf
  4. Many people are moving away from the built in generators (Onan and Kohler) because of their noise and chosing instead much quieter Honda/Yamaha/Kipor inverter generators. Generally 2000w which will operate a small A/C. They are not, however, designed to be operated inside your 'home.
  5. Ah. That makes sense now. We don't have 'Les' in my parts. Nor do we have 'Earl', so I didn't connect right away.
  6. KYB makes 3 different qualities of shock. I think the cheapest are the GR2. I'd expect you to get what you pay for. I believe Linda S is an advocate of KYB shocks. I give up. Who's 'Les'?
  7. I've yet to come across a Toyota MH manufacturer that had the generator as standard equipment. Water heaters (4 or 6 gallon) were pretty much standard, with the possible exception of some of the most basic, small 'homes (Chinook, Bandit, Mirage).
  8. Thanks for the follow-up. Did you get the timing belt changed and valve clearance checked at the same time? Did Toyota cover the cost?
  9. If anyone does go and get parts from it, seriously consider snagging the molded side skirts and rear bumper. They're made of 'Unobtainium'.
  10. I don't know if you'll find a manual specific to the SeaBreeze, since both were made by National. 6000lb GVWR applies to the V6 1-Ton C&C. As you've discovered, earlier were lower. Installing a 1-Ton rear axle will not change your GVWR.
  11. The 'Classic' FWD GMCs are 23' & 26'. Not so much longer than Toyotas. Later ones were 'only' the 403 Olds engine. I'm not sure how fuel consumption would compare if one was driven in convoy with a Toyota (i.e. slowly).
  12. A standard 14" roof vent would replace the roof air.
  13. Yep, I'd suggest shooting a squirt of ether in the carb when it won't run. It'll tell you right away if you've go a spark or not.
  14. I'd consider doing something like this:- http://www.andybaird.com/travels/gertie/bedroom.htm
  15. One idea/concept I came across on another RV site (Award trailers) was to use waterproof tape to seal window wall openings (with the windows removed) so that if water makes it past the putty/butyl tape, it can't get into the wall structure. Either aluminium duct tape (as used by HVAC pros) or Eternabond. Makes sense to me as well as doing the same at wall/roof seams.
  16. Sorry, can't guess where they measure. Cutout on the roof? Inside the frame? I guess you might get an ide on the 'Standard' method of measuring by measuring a typical (nominal) 14" vent and see what's actually 14".
  17. Hong's and Ventline seem to be 'big players' in the Exit Vent field. Currently offered (plus maybe others): Hong's: 17x24 16x23 15x22 13x20 Ventline: 14 1/2 x 21 1/2 Perhaps contacting your local RV supplier might turn up other sizes. I've no idea how to measure to get the right size.
  18. Can't comment on the accuracy, but Red Max might not be available any more, so you'll have to look for ZEP. http://www.rvforum.n...p?topic=52608.0 I plan to try some ZEP (and Barkeeper's Friend) as soon as I find some.
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