Derek up North

http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=5569&hl=%2Bairlift+%2Bfirestone http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=5201&page=3&hl=%2Bairlift+%2Bfirestone#entry40792

Wire sizes as used by Winnebago, who have a fair amount of experience with RVs. http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/1990/099447.pdf

Or do the 'Zuk mod'. http://www.yotatech.com/f129/zuk-mod-250033/

Windows look smaller so maybe darker and poorer ventilation. Window in kitchen is fixed. http://www.rvdap.com/1990-winnebago-warrior-320rc-smnvjv.html Smaller bathroom mean more 'non-bathroom' floorspace I guess.

I see the front seats have been changed, which could be a good thing EXCEPT that it looks from the picture that they sure are mounted with a pretty extreme tilt to the seat squab! But maybe it's just an illusion.

Yes, there are Amish in China. http://local-amishpeople.com/ChinaNewYorkamishpeople

http://www.gopnh.com/Automotive-Part-Number-1.cfm?Partnumber=6111&Manufacturer=Toyota

The big 'IF' being how long before you'll need the other 75' and if you can find it when you do. I know I never can!

I'll counter that springs can cause jarring. As an exaggeration, but to illustrate the point, imagine you installed a leaf pack with 20 leaves. That would certainly be jarring and nothing to do with which shock absorbers are installed.

900. Not a huge surprise since they seemed to be the biggest seller. Just about every manufacturer seems to have offered the same layout.

Air spring pressures are all a matter of personal taste. How shot are your leaf springs? How 'stiff' a ride do you want? If you're not riding around on your bump stops without them then you might well be happier with less pressure.

$5.99 for 25 ft doesn't seem a whole lot cheaper that $18 for 100 ft if you only need <25 ft.

Next time you try it, add my DIY 'check valve'. Eliminates contaminated fluid being drawn back in as you release the pedal. And your bleed will go much faster.

1985 FSM? https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_1LbTxQDmlVYmRkZTE2YjItODUzYS00NDUxLTk0ODUtYTYxYjZiYjk4ZTA5/view?ddrp=1&hl=en&pli=1 Section FU (starts on page 244 of 1025).

Solo brake bleeder. Take your clear tube and block 1 end with a screw from you 'misc screw jar'. With a utility knife cut a 1/2" slit just above the screw (lengthwise). This will act as a check valve. Put the blocked end in a jar with some fluid, the other end on the bleeder. Open the bleeder. Make yourself comfortable in the drivers seat and slowly press the pedal to the floor. When fluid exiting is clean and air free, close the bleeder and move on. I've been making and using these (solo) for about 50 years too. The design was passed to my by Alan de Cadenet.

Unless I'm mistaken, this setup would allow your air spring(s) to drop to 70 psi before topping them up to 100. I've no idea why, but the compressor says it's NOT recommended for tires.

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Cute but still has a 5-lug rear axle and foolies.

Bitte schön.

My 1992 Owners Manual specs this:- 22R-E Nippondenso W16EXR-U NGK BPR5EY 3VZ-E Nippondenso K16R-U NGK BKR5EYA Plug gap:- 0.031"

Perhaps a bit of confusion with 'propylene glycol' as used in 'Peak Sierra'. http://www.peakauto.com/products/antifreeze-coolants/automotive/sierra/

The only thing that humming indicates is that it might not know the lyrics.

I'd think that Toyota would cover their backsides by warning owners about problems mixing their antifreeze with others if there was a problem. But it seems they don't. http://s5.photobucket.com/user/Hanzbucket/media/Tacoma/Tacoma%20Service/CoolantRear.jpg.html

That's correct. Also known as the 'Bolt Circle Diameter' (BCD) or 'Pitch Circle Diameter' (PCD). Easily measured with 4, 6 or 8 holes. Not so with 3 or 5.

Yes. Keep it as light as possible.