Derek up North

But it only works with 2 Honda batteries.

You might as well do the 'might-as-wells' at the same time. Your old axle ratio is probably 4.10:1 and the new one is probably the same.

But MUCH, MUCH more no than yes in practice.

No need to worry about the axle. It's not the Full Floating (FF), 1- Ton, 6-lug that you'll often read about being needed by a recall. The recall only applied to 'Homes that were fitted 'foolie' dual rear wheels. Yours isn't/wasn't. You've got wide 'Super singles', probably 7" wide rims and (originally) L60-14 tires. From the pictures, you're the owner of a very clean example. The 1st thing I'd do is get rid of the brown shag (unless that's your 'thing').

I believe in the link I gave, JD used pressure treated. But that's a bit heavy and therefore might lead to premature axle failure. But whatever wood you choose, I'd suggest gluing and screwing it together and protecting it with a good paint. That should make it last longer than the original.

Rotten! Anything will be equal to or better than the factory.

Basic carpentry to rebuild to better than the factory 'sticks & staples'. I haven't checked but I wouldn't be surprised if there aren't YouTube videos as well. There are about everything else. Edit: Lots of ways to skin a horse! https://www.google.ca/search?q=rv+door+rebuild&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&gws_rd=cr&ei=rCtGV-uYO4ycjwTBrI64Cw

I don't know what you're blabbing about any more with your Honda/Unicorn (apparent) fetish. For the (your) record, I could care less about Honda anythings. I'd much rather have a good Nissan.

Silly me. I was looking for a tread about a FF axle failure due to overloading (as I said twice) from the weight of an extra Honda generator (as you appear to be worried about ad nauseum). That doesn't appear to be it. I've no idea what db id that is. Not one I have access to. Looks more like a Zip Code.

Apparently there's no need for a link to prove credibility. At least in this tread. You'll just have to assume that without a link, it didn't happen, as I do.

Old kids on the block:- There used to be available SV-820 branded tires from Woosung, Signet & Jupiter. All seemed to have identical tread patterns. Who owned who, who actually made them and what their relationship is/was to Nexen, I know not. http://www.ratwell.com/technical/TirePhotos.html#jupitersv820 Edit: " Nexen (Woosung), Signet, Atlas, Roadstone, Jupiter, Rodian, all the same SV-820" http://www.vvwc.ca/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=3027&view=next

You're being far too cryptic. Why not just post a link to the relevant Thread about a FF axle failure due to overloading?

Are you sure that the old furnace was actually installed in your 'Home, or is it just an old furnace?

Well, since you never (apparently) have moments, why don't you find the FF axle fail report then. Otherwise, it didn't happen.

I don't recall anyone reporting a FF axle failing from overloading.

At 120k miles it is due for a 2nd valve 'check and adjust'. With service records, the V6 is OK. The 340 automatic behind all V6s is not problematic. The A43 behind 4 cylinders is more prone to overheating. V6 or I4, neither is fast. You'll have plenty of time to smell the roses with either!

Did you check this recent listing? http://www.kijiji.ca/v-vr-motorise/ville-de-quebec/toyota-warrior-en-bonne-condition-doit-partir-aubaine/1167731424?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

The VIN is Toyota's. There was never a recall against Toyota, only against the 4 Manufacturers who were still in business when the recall was issued. So out of business Manufacturers weren't named and as far as I know there was never a recall issued by the Canadian Gov't against anyone.

Yes, that's a 'bad' axle with 'foolies'. Are you sure the axle he has is a 1-Ton FF? Best to post a picture of that too unless you're certain. Finding one North of the border is going to be VERY difficult, if not impossible. The closest to Montreal on Car-part.com are in NH. NONE in Canada.

A Google search for the make and model numbers of the old and new furnaces should get you the installation instructions. Should be a good start. Start here:- http://bryantrv.com/

From the internet, but ties in with what I think and what I've read over the years. Q: Is there any noticeable advantage to inflating tires with pure nitrogen instead of air? Does this result in any improvements in performance or fuel consumption? I know of an auto dealership that is automatically adding $199 (plus HST) to the cost of all its new vehicles to inflate the tires with nitrogen. Is this really necessary and is this additional cost reasonable? I have been using regular air for more than 50 years and have found it to be generally satisfactory. A: There is much hype about nitrogen, and it is just a lot of hot air. It is a money-maker for dealerships offering to fill your tires for $20, but this $199 is a new high. In addition, it is a ripoff of the highest order. If nitrogen was free, sure I’d use it — why not? But really, it offers so little advantage over compressed air it is not worth one extra dime. The air we breathe and the air that is compressed in your tires is already 78 per cent nitrogen. Pure nitrogen is used in big commercial aircraft, some long-haul trucks and elite class race cars. In aircraft and race cars, it is used because a pure gas (instead of a mixture of gasses like compressed air) lets the engineers predict exactly how the tire will react when it is stressed by heat. Heat causes the tire to enlarge (we are talking about small amounts here) and so the racing engineers can get optimum pressures. In aircraft, the tire undergoes tremendous stress: warm at takeoff, deep below freezing at altitude and then back to normal temperatures when the landing gear goes down. The impact of landing creates a huge heat spike. In a situation like this, the engineers need to be able to predict every reaction of the tire. However, when you are driving down the highway, you don’t need this degree of predictability. On a hot day, your tire will increase pressure by a few PSI. Do you care if it is 2.2 extra PSI or 2.7 psi? If you need that information, then get nitrogen and carry a computer with you to calculate how that affects maximum grip. For most of us, life works fine with compressed air. The reason compressed air is a little less predictable is that it contains some moisture that was in the air when it was compressed. The water vapour causes the unpredictability. However, most good garages have water traps on their air compressors. If they are functioning and emptied, there will be little water vapour. Fuel economy depends on maintaining proper air pressure. It does not matter what gas is in the tire. If it is inflated properly, the fuel economy will be the same. http://www.wheels.ca/news/why-nitrogen-in-your-tires-is-a-waste-of-money/#sthash.z1gRO6xY.dpuf

It's getting harder and harder to find 'free air' around here. There's 1 gas station in town where it's free. All the others you have to plug quarters into a little wall mounted compressor. But the tire shops are still free, of course. I must have led a charmed life. I have never had to take a tire back to be rebalanced. Mount, balance, install, good to go. Tire rotation? No, except they sort of maybe get rotated when swapping on snow tires/4-seasons. Is Big-O tire charging shipping on top of the $107/tire?

I went cold turkey a few years ago. No problem. YouTube, on the other hand ...!

Could you ask your friend for more details on the rear rims and tires he bought. The info might help someone on here interested in converting fro 'foolies' on a small older Toyota.

'Sticks 'n Staples'.