flatspin

Congrats on the purchase! And yep, the inside of these coaches is just a hornets nest of bad design and poor quality. Makes for a terrific project, tho! I am starting to think about round 2 on my rig...and doing some full cabinet replacement...so I'm anxious to see how you approach the cabinetry... -andrew

I hear you about opening up pandora's box, but I'd strongly recommend you hesitate on the 5200 before you sort out what's going on underneath the split in the metal. If you're not comfortable taking off the trim and getting inside to see what's going on, it would be well worth your while to find a good shop locally. It might cost a few bucks to get it right, but it'll be a lot less than a continuing leak through a pile of sealant you can't get off the skin. Without a good solid mechanical fit, even the toughest most flexible sealants will let water in.

I'll have to develop some new skills (or some new friends) before building from-scratch face-frame cabinets, but I hear you about the weight penalty... From looking around it seems like the strongest/lightest approach is a hardwood faceframe with luan sides...

Oh yeah, silicone is unfriendly stuff. On my Sunrader when I bought it I discovered a slow drip coming in the black water tank vent (which sneaks up through the closet to the roof). Turns out a previous owner had installed the vent cover entirely with silicone. No butyl tape, etc. And then when it clearly hadn't been water tight, just added more and more. It looked like a cowpie of silicone on the roof. What a nightmare to remove. And the best part is that the butyl tape and dicor are much easier to deal with than silicone too... big win win.

Hey, I have a 1990 21 footer with the metal supports. Check out image 49 in the album connected to my blog http://sunrader.blogspot.com/ to get an idea how it fits. Basically it is a gently arched rectangular steel tube that holds the roof up and then connects with brackets and carriage bolts through the sidewall of the camper. I think something similar would be pretty easy to make, but a significant job to install (pulling down the upper cabinets, etc.) The supports are inside the plywood ceiling. Hope that's helpful. -andrew

Well we have a few trips under our belt and have learned a lot. The good news: - All systems work well. Hot and cold running water, cold fridge, no big leaks anywhere (even around the front windows!) - About 2500 new miles on the odo without any mechanicals. almost time for an oil change. - We can get level (sometimes) with the airbags alone, which is quite a treat. The bad news: The cabinet housing the sink and the stove is just done. 20 years of hard labor on top of the 1-ton rear axle has just pulverized the particleboard. Most, if not all of the latches holding doors and drawers closed are on their second repositioning, so everything is a little 'tricky' to get shut before getting underway. I'm thinking this off season will mean some major interior construction. A new kitchen cabinet, and probably the supporting face panels underneath the rear dinette. All those are similarly tired, and when i tried to tighten down a few screws during the restoration I had to be really careful not to just smash the particleboard to bits. So, my question after all of that is... what materials have folks found best for cabinet construction? Any great suggestions on installation and attachment? The walls, of course, are just that luan over foam so there isn't much value in anchoring there so I'm thinking screws to the floor are the best bet. And a full plywood cabinet rather than the particleboard face frame with luan side panels... So? What works best? Thanks all. latest on my rig at www.sunrader.blogspot.com

The restoration project is a fun (albeit massive) effort. In my Sunrader, everything "worked" but I then discovered a slow leak due to a cracked water heater. Those things just happen, and they're a handful of 100s every time even if you do the work on your own. I'd bet you could find a watertight and structurally sound toy mh in your budget. I spent about a year searching for what I wanted and learned a lot in the process. -andrew

Couldn't agree more. Lots of work and expense to just get back to a stable structure, then lots more to do from the standpoint of cosmetics and internal function. Restoration budget can go quickly in that scenario!

I have a couple of suggestions, having just gone through a lot of this work on a Sunrader. Pulling carpet is a chore, for sure, but well worth it. It took me a few days to get it all out (along with all the associated debris). I'm a big fan of doing as much demolition as you plan to before going in search of leaks. I had a stubborn leak in the cabover portion of my Sunrader, and it became a lot easier to locate and repair once all the old carpeting had been removed. I'd absolutely agree that a friend with a hose is a terrific way to find the place where water is coming in. In terms of resealing windows or exterior lights, it may just be time to re-do the butyl tape seals around the window frames. That's more of a chore than it is difficult. Same thing with the clearance lights. The tape lasts a good long time. A light bead of clear silicone around the edge doesn't hurt either, but be sure to use masking tape on the fiberglass shell. That will give you a nice finished line. Silicone is less forgiving than traditional caulk in that regard. As for flooring, a couple of boxes of laminate or composite hardwood make a pretty stunning and easy to clean floor. I prefer it to the carpet by far, though I must admit the thought of orange shag has a strange appeal! Have fun with it. -andrew

Replacement windshields for the pickup should be available from most any windshield/autoglass installer. If what you need is a window on the cab door, you could save some $$ by going to a salvage yard that specializes in toyota pickpus. If what you're looking for is a replacement window somewhere on the coach, it really depends on the maker. Some of the coachmakers were really nice and used standard frames that will allow replacement with either stock glazing or custom cut. If, like me, you have something like a Sunrader where the front windows are unique, wrap-arounds, it is a bit more complicated. There are sources like http://www.rvdoctorgeorge.com/ who stock all sorts of salvaged and hard-to-source parts. Really nice guys whom I've worked with multiple times. Hope that helps. andrew

How about 3. Top picture you can see that the installer welded in a metal plate inside the L between the frame and the crossmember. The hitch bar bolts through that. Hopefully this gives you a good enough sense of how it was done on my rig. I'm sure they're all a little different.

C'mon guys, maybe you need a refresher course... It's all ball bearings these days.

I'd second this wholeheartedly. Stopping is the big issue, and the brakes on the Toyota are working extremely hard already with the weight of the coach, especially if you're loaded up for a trip. Adding 1,000 or 2,000 lbs. on a trailer will significantly change the stopping distance of the vehicle.

HEY Now... I have a 2 inch hitch on the Sunrader and it works great for bikes. I wouldn't pull anything with it, but it is mounted directly to the frame so I wouldn't be afraid to put a storage rack back there (for light stuff, etc.).

I went for it and did the dual switch/gauge set (the original gauges on my Sunrader had a leak in them). While I can get a reasonable amount of corner-to-corner adjustment out of them, I've always wound up pulling out the lego-blocks in the end. Leveling and managing loads on the road seems to be the more valuable capability...the bags help both front to back and side-to-side leveling of the rig while underway.

21 bucks... holy smackers. I'm going to have a look! I think i may actually go for these instead. twice the price, but when they print 'heavy duty' on the side my marketing antennae go on full alert http://www.amazon.co...otive&carId=001

When it comes to bike races, I'm decidedly a spectator! But I will say my bike is the same vintage (and gets similar attention) as the Sunrader. The Tour of California was awesome. Posted a few pics to the blog at www.sunrader.blogspot.com and will try to get a few more up into a gallery. The pros are amazing going up the road. The group goes fast, then suddenly a couple of guys will break away and accelerate. Maybe like putting jato rockets on the 'rader. Hmm, where have i seen that before?

Thanks Brad... I had a feeling that would be the case. Now the question is how to buy and install them without the "Master Budgeter" finding out -andrew

Thanks for all the good advice. I was well overprepared for any contingency, especially given an unusually reliable platform. I did note that lock-up RPM change. It seems to be fairly quick after the shift, and we used OD a lot on the long, flat freeway stretches. I don't have a transmission temperature gauge (though I've considered adding one) but I did put a hand on the floor when climbing up the Grapevine and up HWY 18 to Big Bear. I saw a little bump in coolant temperature and a negligible rise in the heat, if any, coming off the transmission hump. One thing I want to work on is ride quality. My Sunrader has some recent-vintage Monroe Gas Magnum shocks on it. I'm wondering if better shocks at all corners would improve things. My springs are in pretty good shape so I have been experimenting with keeping the airbags on the low side (35-40psi) but that ride is still harsh, especially on washboard concrete freeway. I had put Monroe shocks on my F-150 during a tire change (they threw me a deal) and they were awful. Washboard pavement sent the truck porpoising. I switched over to KYBs on the Ford and it is like a new vehicle. Any similar experiences to relate before I plunk down some green for new dampers?

Well I went to town, checked most everything and carried a virtual auto shop in my utility box including some nice new reflector triangles. Cooked off a little bit of oil on the trip, but we pushed the rig pretty hard (up to 70+ on I-5, a long ride over the Grapevine, and a trip to Big Bear, Ca at 7,000ft of elevation) and came through perfectly. I did pop in a bottle of injector cleaner -- not sure if it has had an impact or not. The 3.06 isn't super powerful, but on the way south we were pushing 70 and clearing 13mpg which isn't bad. The trip back on 101 was MUCH smoother, though a little slower. I'm betting the mileage was a lot better at 60-65... Thanks everyone for the feedback. And the transmission (knock wood) seems to be AOK... in fact, I think it is in far better shape than my 1997 F-150 that has the same miles on it.

I'm looking at the varieties of portable water filters. The water here in the East Bay isn't fabulous, so a filter is useful even for those home fill-ups. The transmission fluid is still brightly colored and the prior owner claimed he kept it on a severe duty cycle with regular fluid changes. I'm going to take it in for a check-up on Friday. Oil changes are cheap, and the once over by a mechanic is free. Oh, and I think i need a new battery too. Brands? Interstate?

We are in the finishing stages of our 'phase-1' Sunrader restoration and ready to hit the road next week for our first trek. We'll be following the www.amgentourofcalifornia.com. I'll be taking the rig in to the local shop for a look over and oil change before we go. Any hot items that are on your "MUST BE CHECKED" list before departure? Tire pressure, oil, transmission, coolant... Do I go as far as a transmission fluid change for the season? Rear diff gear oil? Am I over thinking this? Rig has just over 100k on the V6, starts easy every time and runs strong. Brakes are quiet, smooth and capable. Any do not miss items will be most appreciated!

The foam and fabric funk is what led us to reupholster. The cushions in our rig had some serious "history" that wouldn't submit to the Febreze treatment. I suppose the other approach is just to live in it for a week. Once you do that, you won't notice the smell anymore ... just don't expect a lot of repeat visitors!

Just getting ALL of the old carpet out will be transformational. My Sunrader just had a FUNK when we first got it, and based on the amount of debris that came loose with the carpet...let's just say it will help a lot. We also went ahead and had everything reupholstered. It costs a pretty penny, but makes a huge difference. You may be able to get some -- if not all -- of the covers dry cleaned. Worth a shot imho.

Ok, so I've been trawling and crawling the web for a new worm gear for the old awning on the side of the Sunrader. The awning is in fine shape, just needs a bit of tape to fix a small rip on one corner. Aside from that, everything works just fine. The problem is the crank gear. The housing has split and the gears no longer engage. I'd rather not spend a thousand bucks on a new awning if I can find this assembly -- or even something close that i can adapt. Any good ideas on where to look?