Shoprat

The thing to remember is , as I recall, you do not have a dual rear axle on that model. Dual rear axles are full floating with very strong rear axle bearings to carry the extra weight of a motorhome. The single tire rear axle, the pickup type, is maxed out with the 18 footer. Don't give yourself a lot of repairs by overloading the little guy.

Howdy Yostfmx... In a word... No.You only have a four cylinder engine. Your rig weighs around 2 1/2 tons. You will be adding another ton to the mix. Even with four wheel drive, it will be gasping for breath at 50 miles per hour on the flat. Going up a hill.... man, you don't want to go there!-

Thanks for the backup mcshank. I was a little concerned about my memory on this. I will now go back to happily stacking my BBs in the corner. One----t-t-two--thr--thr--threee...

Howdy Robert I seem to recall a post here a while back about the overdrive not working above a certain altitude. Think it was by our fearless leader. If my screen door memory serves me correctly, it was designed by the factory to do that. Lessens engine strain. Course, if your overdrive went out on the plains, I never made this post... Gotta protect what's left of my ego...

Hey Friedtaters- Try googling your appliances with name and model numbers, should come up with something that way. Awnings- try googling Camping World.

Howdy Bobbystand.. Do not put a motorcycle on a hitch carrier without re-inforcing the rear frame extensions. Unfortunately, Toy motorhomes are not the most hairy chested in this area.

My Sunrader with a roof air unit measures 9 feet high. I would imagine the width would go around 8 feet.

Howdy ToyoGuy.. Glad to see ya here. Sunraders Rock.

Hello again , Robert... Jack Russels, huh. Very quick, very yapping dogs. A neighbor had one. Kept getting loose. I read up on the Jack Russels at that time and to my amazement , they were bred as dogs to control bulls. Quick little buggers, as I watched the neighbors dog run in front of a car turning the corner in front of my house, he got in front of the car and braced him/her self as him/her self yapped at the car. The driver would go forward a few feet and stop , the dog would retreat a few feet ,continue yapping and stop retreating. I shook my head at this behavior, knowing that sooner or later, a driver would get fed up . Sorry to say, the dog is no longer part of the LIVING community , if lack of appearances is any indication. I really hate to see this much energy dissappear, in a weird twisted way. He/she gave it his/her all..

Howdy Robert... I have dealt with the lack of illumination from the backup lights on a couple of vehicles. Thanks for the thought provoking post.On a pickup of mine a half decade back or so, I tied into the backup lights with a farm tractor fender light to let me see more in the dusky dark. I mounted it on the drivers side rear upper part of the rear bumper. It helped some, but couldn't help with the loss of night vision that comes with age, unfortunately. Now, on a motorhome, what I would do , is to mount two headlights on each upper rear corner of the back bumper. I would then connect the power to them to a relay. This relay would be triggered from the hot wire to the backup lights with the relay power output going to the feed wire to the headlamps. The relay would go to ground through the frame, or a wire to the battery ground, which ever was easier. The relay load input would come from the battery. this would prevent the extra amps being directed through the backup light switch and possibly burning it out. I hope this helps.

Howdy Ronk. Looks pretty good. Only question I would have about it is the plastic wrapping around the bunk mattress. That may be due to water leaks from the front area. I would ask the seller about that. Otherwise, as I said , it looks good. Good luck with it.

Howdy johnderoos. Try a Carquest Auto Store. I was able to get fuel filler hose in bulk from them. Sold by the inch. If you have to , you can use steel exhaust pipe for the straight sections.

Best place I've found for manuals on the web is Alldata. You can download wiring diagrams, proceedures, parts prices, labor times, etc. Runs about 12 bucks a year. Just Google Alldata.

Howdy California Boy. That number of adults and kids would probably be unworkable in a Toy. The maximum number I would see using a Toy would be two small children and two adults. But, I guess you could go with hammocks...

Howdy d.richey If the proportioning valve is the one I'm thinking off, it's on the passenger side rear frame rail by the rear axle with a rod going down to the rear axle. It was there on the pickup frame to allow more braking to the rear wheels when hauling heavy loads in the pickup box. As the frame settled lower due to the weight in the box, more braking force would go to the back wheels. If your motor home is setting level fore and aft, 70 percent of the weight of your motor home is being slowed down by the front brakes. Thats a lot of heat. It glazes pads. It makes it hard to stop the MH over time because you have to push harder on the brakes to get it to slow down, which glazes the pads more. Yes, you can adjust it so that the valve will put more force to the rear wheels, just shove the valves' arm all the way up when the vehicles setting level. Or you can do what I did. Pull the silly thing off and bypass it. You already have all the weight you can have back there. By getting rid of it, your back brakes absorb more of the braking force, making the vehicle easier to stop. I also replaced the front rotors with slotted rotors to dissapate the heat better, and installed pads with racing compound construction to get better braking. It hogs my vehicle down big time now. I used to push a lot harder on the pedal to get it to stop in a longer distance before the mods. It was a little pricey, but going downhill on a steep grade and when I clamp on the anchors the bugger slows down is worth it to me. Ok. just saw your edit- so I'm editing too. When I removed the load sensing prop valve, I took it on a gravel road after I adjusted the brakes, and got it going about 40 m.p.h. I then slammed on the brakes to check my mods out to see if it would try to swap ends. It stopped straight and true. No problem. Get rid of the silly thing. Bypass at least. Mine was leaking brake fluid, and it would cost me 150 bucks to replace it. THE SYSTEM WORKS BETTER WITHOUT IT. Sorry for shouting, but you need all the braking force you can get. It's ok for a pickup, steenks to the max on a motorhome.

Howdy Lost. A quick way to check for vacuum leaks is with the engine running and all equipement in place, spray aerosal ( sp?) carb cleaner around all the hoses and fittings. If there is a vacuum leak, the engine will speed up and smooth out.Just don't spray the whole thing at once. Spray a small area, see the results, then move on. Ps. I know your too smart to do THIS ... Don't spray the exhaust manifold... Things sometimes go a large type " WOOF" ! Eyebrows go away.. don't make me embarrse myself by telling you how I know this..

Howdy Malinda. In reply to your e-mail to me, right click on the sale- buncha numbers-craigs list tag above and paste it into a google search box. Should come up for ya that way. Hope this helps. John

Howdy Anna. Moisture in the distributor cap comes to mind. Check that out.

Hey Malinda. Check these out. sale-450705785@craigslist.org Sorry. You'll have to cut and paste the link.

What'cha all think ?

Yo Arthur, check the fuses down by the drivers side kick panel. Also there is a relay under the passengers side kick panel. Check your fuel filter. It's on top of the starter, passengers side, under the intake plenum. Hope this helps.

Howdy Jackie. I would just drain the whole system, then disconnect the input tube to your electric waterpump. Stick the input tube into a gallon of RV antifreeze and turn on the pump. Then just go around to all the faucets and turn them on one at a time until the antifreeze comes out. May have to use a gallon or three, but at about 3 bucks a gallon, the price ain't bad.

Oh Mannnnn ! I was hoping to make it, but my rig is sitting due to mechanical problems. Maybe next year !

Hi Dennis My guess could be the clamp is probably too loose or cocked. Sealer wouldn't be a bad idea either, just in case the neck was scratched or dented . Course, be sure to get a sealer that will stand up to gasoline, but , you know that.

Hey Greg... Don't know what yer smokin', but save me a hit will ya ?