d.richey

There is nothing in my manuals about using overdrive or overdrive/off for my v-6 92 Warrior. I could not find anything at the forum using search. Could I get some specifics about its use: just hills?, what speeds? etc.Doug 92 Warrior v-6

For two weeks my 92 Warrior has run fine started up everytime with no issues. Last night for the first time I unplugged the electrical cord from its inside receptical and plugged it in since the battery in this recently acquired coach was very low or dead. I wanted to test out some systems. The lights worked the top a.c. worked and I left it plugged in overnight. Then I took it out for an extended errand trip today. However I did not plug the electrical cord back into its socket. I don't think I left anything else on. I went to start it back up after long errand trip and nothing. It made no sound did not turn over or click. Nothing. Then I plugged it back into the inside receptical and I did get a key buzz sound and some dash lights but nothing more than a click. I did not think that that was required I thought plugging it back into the internal receptical was optional. I know there is some issue with the radio working some time and sometime not so I know there is some electrical issue there. But I do turn it off and I do not think anything else was left on. I am surprised if leaving that unplugged would drain the car battery. Any ideas friends? Doug 92 Warrior

I wanted to have the tire man remove the spare tire from underneath the rear to see how that impacted my steering but I found no tool and the manual called for a tool and this Spanish speaking laborer did not know how to do it. I only refer to his ethnicity because I was wondering if he was less familiar with some of our gadgets. Is this really complicated and dependent on a tool that fits through a hole in the bumper. I did not see a hole in the rear steel bumper that holds the tank hose. Is that the bumper and if there is not a hole there it would seem that my spare might call for a different liberation mode? Anyone familiar with this and that could enlighten me. Thanks Doug

I am not sure if my transmission is shifting well and properly at the two higher shift points. I have the v-6 ,91. If that turns out to be so how expensive does this get? Does one take the Toy to any transmission shop, or to a Toyota dealer or to a truck shop? Are they the sort of thing that can usually be rebuilt some or do you usually have to get a rebuilt one. If that is the case are the tranmsissions for the Toy's the same one you would ask for for the 91 v-6 average Toyota truck or is there a special one built for the motorhomes? And lastly if worst case scenario I did need a rebuilt one are some better designed than others? Thanks Doug(p.s. what are the shift speeds for the different gears or shifts?)

I have several options for getting my exhaust manifold gasket work done but I think Toyota is the only one that would offer a warranty( I'm not sure yet) and that would be good for nationwide travel. The other two mechanics I think will offer no warranty. I have not asked them what would your average mechanic do in terms of warranty? It seems I have gleaned from past reviews that problems can resurface with regards to this type of work. Any comments welcome. Doug

The mechanic I took my 91 Warrior to is dragging his feet intentionally on doing my work. I finally told him to finish up what he can by tomorrow and I'll get the rest done elsewhere. The big part is what he is leaving-the exhaust manifold gasket work. Before I go out and solicit someone else's help I would like another overview. He told me that the manifold was not cracked and yet I thought I read on the forum that some of these bolt replacement problems can be corrected by getting a new manifold. Is there a possiblilty that it would have to be up on a lift? From all I have read about this subject on the forum it is very depressing and negative-pessimistic. I would have thought that by 1991 on a Toyota(good brand) that they would not be making something concerned with the engine that is scarcely repairable. That is the way it sounds when you talk about getting bolts in or out. There seem to be so many failure scenarios and that is with owners who are diligent and very caring of their own vehicle. Who am I going to be able to trust to be as perfect as what seems to be required in dealing with all that bolt issue. This is a v-6 by the way. I 'm afraid that someone could do a half-way job and I will not know it.This guy I had did not seem to be motivated to tackle this even though he had written me out an estimate and said he would do it. Would someone make this as clear and definite as posssible and tell me if there are any ways to avoid pitfalls in the procedure . Do I take it to some kind of specialist? What about Toyota? Someone mentioned a muffler shop I thought. If there is anyone honest near N.C. that does this speak up. Thanks -depressed-Doug P.S.(out of 5 motorhomes that I have owned only one ended up being a simple matter).

I know little of these repairs and only a little about the cost of rebuilt engines but am learning more about both. If I have exhaust gasket work with possible bolt issues, replacing a catalyic converter, having 71kmiles, on it and no guarantee that there may be some other hidden issues( head gasket was gone in 98 and he acted like no issue there and no need for compression check) should I be considering a rebuilt engine short or long block as a better investment. I saw somewhere on the forum where rebuilt engines were available from the northwest. I need to know how much the engines cost( I thought I rememeber like $2800) and how much labor is to take one ouf and put one in and how much exhaust gasket work would still remain outside of such a purchase. I do not have alot of cash to throw around it is just if there is only about $1000 between alot of fixing and a rebuilt one then the extra $ 1000 would seem justified. Please inform me. Doug

In evaluating my new purchase the mechanic found the following: need for manifold gaskets, new shocks, new steering stabilizer, and catalytic converter. I have questions about his details and costs. First of all I have zero mechanical inclinations so someone else will have to do the work. I noticed a topic suggesting that getting the whole new exhaust manifold would eliminate bolt break off issues. Is that true. He mentioned that he might get in there and encounter some bolt problems. Is it true that getting the new exhaust manifold would either eliminate or greatly reduce some or all of the bolt issues. Is there alot more repair time if you do the new exhaust manifold versus just the gaskets? He quoted me 7.8 hours or $ 600 for that. He said Monroe shocks would be easier to replace if they broke down anywhere. I thought Bilstein shocks were the best. He said I could use a steering stablilizer I want the best not the cheapest and am a member of Camping World. Any brand recommendation? He said the catalytic converter was in such a shape that it might be relating to my power isssue. Is that a fact? I will need a new idler arm are some better than others or should I get that from Toyota where I am going to order exhaust manifold stuff. He knows about the load sensing proportion valve and seems to be a good mechanic so I guess he should be able to take that off. Would like feedback. Thanks Doug

I apologize for so many queries after just joining but I need to get off on the right foot with a few areas. I thought this proportioning valve adjustment would be something the mechanic could understand and correct but after perusing the May 2000 article by Bill Williams the detail of all this may not facilitate a correct adjustment. If I have the 91 Winn. Warr. which type of valve do I have? He mentions hydraulic propor.valves, mechanical proport. valves, metering valves. I am most likely not going to slam on the brakes the way I drive and even so I need a easy touch brake for health reasons. Until I perused his article I assumed it was advisable and simple for the mechanically inclined. Could someone simplify his article and still be detailed enough so that I can print something for my mechanic? Trying to learn something I checked out a Chilton's manual and in the part about this proportioning load senser valve it mentions the average owner/mechanic should -would not be able to do this fine-tuned adjusting. Who then is a specialist in this? A brake man? Is my neighbor hood mechanic at the service station qualified? Perhaps the Toyota dealer but then is it a license issue messing with that? Thanks Doug

Here I am with more problems. To try to avoid braking until I can get it improved I was shifting into neutral to dimiinish the pull of the engine as the vehicle slowed down. I accidentallly shifted too far into reverse coming to a stoplight at about 5mph for about one second. Would I have done damage and if so what will I notice. I will not do it again but now I live in fear that I have more problems to deal with. Braking this bus really does irritate my umbillical hernia and Monday I will ask the mechanic to see if he understands that bit about the rear valve and shortening that link. Advise please. Doug

I have a very slow Winnebago Warrior 91. I have not even added camping supplies and water and would like to have a generator. Am I just looking for alot less power especially with the generator? I would get a 2.8 microlite.Please advise. Thanks Doug

I had a 91 Itasca and it had the most powerful easy to push brakes. Unfortunatley at that time I decided the Toys were not what I needed. Now I am recommitted and have another 91 Winnebago. Although there was front brake work done just recently by previous owner these brakes seem to have very little power and there is alot of pushing. I have three hernia areas and a soft quick response on the brake is what I need. Can anyone that can get the mhome up on a lift do the brakes or does someone need to be especially knowledgeable about the systems in these little motorhomes. And are any brake parts ok or are there preferred ones to stop these easier? One last thing do any of you experts know if these are hydroboost or vacuum boost brakes? Thank you Doug

I recently acquried a 91 Winnebago v-6. I liked enough about it I overlooked listening to the engine closely. I had checked and the head gasket had been done in 98. Is the clicking flutter sound another head gasket problem? Can it reappear? If that is what it is I notice the recall are out of date. What is my next option. How expensive can this get? Are there any specialists in working on these engines in North Carolina? I may be jumping ahead in diagnoses just sort of checking ahead. Who typically will work on the engines on these small motorhomes.Thank you Doug

I like tighter steering and while I found one Toy with little play in the steering it is gone now and the next one I tried had an annoying amount. Is this something that I can modify or are each just very different?