Shoprat

Something you might also want to check is to see if the rear axle is is torqueing excessively under load. This rotation will will throw the driveline centerline outside the limits of what angle the u-joints can handle without vibration. Take a quick check of the spring shackles and front spring pivot bushings. If these get gushey, the rear axle assy could shift , giving you this problem. Hope this helps. John

That looks really good , Greg.

Love the Ford engine blue counters. Not teasing you Maineah, I think it's beautiful. Ya did good,boy.

Thanks Maineah... The " Critical Detector" explains everything. In all my years of wrench twisting, I was never able to put 2 and 2and 2 together as to why certain things happened. The time I was working rapidly and hard to get a valve job done by Friday afternoon, only to get done ( almost) and discover the valve seals hiding under the valve covers on the bench. 1 hour before closing time ! The times a special bolt would break under the most innocent circumstances ! The times a plastic part would crumble under my fingers. I always just figgered the %^&*(&*^% things hated me. I apologise to all the vehicles I ever called nasty names, and to the engineers that designed them. They also incurred my wrath ! Horrors ! Thankee for the congrats to my daughter. She's getting it at the age of 42 ( Sorry for tellin' , Darcy ), while raising a daughter, and sometimes working also. She's the perfect example of that old song, "I am Woman". Imagine a beautiful woman wrapped around an Abrams tank when she's going for a self designated goal. I can also take third credit for creating her. Me, her Mom, and God had a hand. I gotta go wipe my eyes, allergies , ya see...

So ok, it's time for the first trip of the year. Ol' Shoprat an Against the Wind will be going out East to Penny to applaud my daughter as she accepts her Masters degree. I will be there to give my inpersonation of a pidgeon with its' chest puffed out with pride ay my " Little Girl"... However, was going to leave Tuesday morning( 5th of May), but as I was filling up the front tank on Against the Wind, I noticed fuel dripping on the ground. I figgered that wasn't the way it's supposed to go, and looked underneath. Fuel was dripping out of the filler hose ! I stopped fueling, paid the bill for the partial tank, and drove to the garage to have it checked out. Takes 2" flex fuel hose. Had to order the hose. Only comes in 3 foot lengths at about 70 bucks a pop. I need about 18 inches to replace what's there. Coming in to the garage tomorrow. So I will leave on Wed instead of Tues. Just glad it happened here instead of in the middle of Penny some where. Just wanted to give ya all a heads up so you can check out yours and see if this could happen to you. Maybe when I come back, I will offer up the left over hose to somebody to get some use out of it. John

Howdy Wheelsea... Towing or carrying anything on the back end of these motorhomes is not reccommended by those of us who are a little conserned with breaking things. There are those here who are not so conserned with breaking things. Basically, it seems to me, do it if ya wanna, but don't come crying to me if half your motorhome gets left behind. Also, it is easier to answer questions if only one per post shows up. Us ol' guys can only absorb so much input at once. It also helps if you ask me a question before I have consumed a beer or 10. I am not going to tell you how mwny I am at right now. Hope this helps somewhat... Jonh, ahhhh, ojhn, ahhhhh, John...ya-ya, that got it !!

Howdy Matt. This subject has been really covered here in several posts. Go to the search function in the Grey bar at the top of the forum,type in ' Full floater" and you will find numerous posts with all the info you desire. Hope this helps. John

Here's another thought... These mirrors lasted 25 years. Add another 25 years with the stock replacements, and ya gotta 50 year old vehicle. Dooode,in that time, the OEM stock replacement mirrors will probably be attached to rusted scrap iron cube in a forgotten corner of an out of the way scrap yard. The blocking of the vision thingy hasn't bothered drivers for 25 years, or the Rader would be a rusted cube already. Do it quick an cheap, just replace the stock with stock look-a-likes. It'll be fine ! Hey ! Don't ask me about that rear view T.V. camera and T.V. unit ya see on my dash.It's personal ! It takes the place of hair on my chest.

Wow ! Just Wow! Man, when you tear down, you tear down ! Be interesting to see it go back together.

Howdy Danny ! This may sound totally absurd, but I offer my input anyway. I had a leak in the overhang in my Sunrader, it turned out to be not the windows, but the clearance lights. Don't forget to check them out also. The sealant willl dry out and crack over time, allowing the water to enter UNDER the clearance light body. I found my leaks by spraying water on the leaking area ( garden hose and a willing assistant) and puling the headliner back till I found the leak. A real PITA , but it saves time in the long run. I actually had water standing in the passenger side footwell, I found out later. The guy who sold it to me had actualy wrapped the front of the overhead mattress in Visqueen to keep it dry I also found out later !I lost a lot of respect for this tur--err- Doode, after I found this ! Go with the flow, Grasshopper ! John

I like it ! I hope you you will enjoy the heck out of it. John

Now that's a wonderfull story. Glad to hear the daughters coming up swinging.Your whole family sounds like a group who would be a joy to know. Even the motorhome did its' part. God bless all of you. John

Ya know... I've been loking at this post for a few days now. I keep having this real bad thought about how to remove mold from a sofa ! DIVORCE... There, I've said it and now I can sleep tonight.

I don't see any problem in just replacing the rod bearings. Be sure to use Plastiguage after you replace the bearings to make sure the clearances are ok.

Lookin' good !

DON'T DO IT ! The duallies help support the weight of the camper. The supposed lessening of drag isn't enough to worry about. Have you had this unit checked by a reliable mechanic?

Greg did it ! He's to blame. I just tattle tale.

Geeez Man... Only thing I can think of would be to bury it at midnight by a crossroads with a stake through its' heart. That'll teach it !

You should be VERY proud !

Good luck to ya, Sir. If we ever run across each other in a MH park, there will be a cold dark one ready for ya.

Hey. Us 'ol wrench twisters gotta help each other out ! Luck. Doode.

Well, let's see here Rule of Thumb for fair pricing of Toyota motorhomes: Take the last digit of the year, subtract 1, and multiply by $1000. (Prices are based on model year, not chassis year which could be one year previous.) For a 4 cyl. ('83 - '89) calculate as above. For example 1987 = $6000. [For '77 to '82 motorhomes (not pop-tops) the prices rarely are below $1500. Pop-top Chinooks (un-restored) can be a bit less.] Then to this base price apply the following factors. For a V-6 engine, add $1000. Prices for nice condition V-6s start at about $9,000 (1989) up to about $14,000 or more for the last year made (1994). For low miles (<50K) or low miles on a new engine, add about $1000 or more. For high miles (over 130K) subtract about as much. Add about $600 if it has a built-in generator. (They cost $2000+ to install). Add about the same for a substantial solar system. If it is from a private seller and is extremely clean and well cared for, add about $800. If it is from a dealer who has tested & repaired all the multiple systems and gives a warranty = nice peace of mind, add about $1000. If it is a Sunrader, add up to $1200 depending on model. These guidelines are based on an informal study of Toyota motorhomes currently being listed and sold, and vary somewhat from the so-called "official" bluebook or Nada Guides pricing. Nada Guides lists only average or below average condition, and unfortunately does not have a category for pricing coaches that are well cared for and in top condition. Ebay prices are different from in person sales from private sellers or dealers. They tend to be as much as 10 to 20% lower when there is the unknown factor of buying a vehicle sight unseen. hope I don't get into trouble for pasting this.

Hey Gregggg.. Downstream ... 14 views ??? I'm a lookin' askance at YOU folks.

Howdy Lono. I studied your post for a while, and blew the dust off a few thoughts. Take some 80 grit sandpaper and , after removing the lenses on your rear lights, sand and clean all the bulb contacts. The taillights dimming when hitting the brakes usually means a ground contact is corroded. This is common in an ol' motorhome. If someone installed a trailer harness, sometimes these things get corroded also. I took my trailer harness off, the green gunge was rampant where they used scotch locks to tap into wires. Yessir boy, I would love to get my hands on people that scotch lock and electrical tape trailer harnesses under the vehicle ! That process yells, " Hey ! Come and get me, you great big green corrosive agent, you!" Now I gotta go somewhere and get my pulse rate down. #$@%^%&**&&

SamnElla? Nahhhh, I ain't a-goin' there ! Try here. http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/ULPfSbA-bPvdv...NG%20GUIDELINES