toyboxII

Hi all--just got our '92 V-6 back from the mechanic. Last year (2500 miles ago) we spent $3000. at the dealer having the valves adjusted and lots of other maintenance items. Shortly after, I got a check engine light, took it back to dealer and had codes read. Three codes, EGR, temperature sensor, or O2 sensor. Had EGR cleaned, and replaced both sensors. Still idles roughly. Mechanic (private not dealer) put his head together with other mechanics who work on Toyotas and he seems to feel that the rough idle is connected to ignition or timing. Any of you experienced gurus out there want to give me some direction? This is getting old fast!

Hi--we also have a 1992 V-6 and we average 14 mpg. Our "sweet spot" is 60 mph. If we push it harder or there is a head wind, the mileage will drop. I have seen as low as 10 mpg and as good as 15. As was previously suggested, SLOW DOWN. Don't forget that you are pushing a large box with a nearly flat front into the wind. I think that our little Toyotas do amazingly well given their job! Good luck with your new toyhome!

Looks like a solution to an ongoing problem. Sent an email to the company that came up with the link and am waiting for a reply. Any source for this in the USA?

Hi and congratulations on your new Toy. We also have a '92 Spirit and love it! No master gas cutoff switch except for the valve on the main tank. Suggest you disconnect the pressure regulator from the POL valve and see if you have gas pressure. Regulator may need to be cleaned or replaced. Trace your gas supply lines from the source to see if you have a blockage somewhere. If you are mechanically challenged where LP is concerned, perhaps a professional check out is in order. Hope you enjoy your new Toyhome!

Yes--we use four bottle jacks under the frame. These not only stabilize the coach but also allow for some leveling. If we are way off level, we use the Lynx Levelers first, then set up the four bottle jacks to tweek the level and stabilize. Keep experimenting--you'll get it!

Hi--we are full timers in our '92 Itasca Spirit. After trial and error, I have found that using mini-bottle jacks under the rear bumper and under the frame up front on both sides makes the coach nice and steady. Found small bottle jacks at Wallyworld for about $10. each.

Hi--we have owned three Toyhomes and may be able to help. Ask away!

Hi gang--just got finished scrubbing my 21 year old Itasca Spirit in preparation for our annual trek to Florida. The recent thread on the aluminum roof made me pay special attention to the surface. Parked under trees for the summer it gets quite dirty and stained. I have found that scrubbing with baking soda does a great job at removing the stains and polishing the surface to a great shine. Aluminum is in great shape and I wondered about sprinkling dry baking soda on the roof occasionally to counteract the effects of acid rain and leaves. My roof has the usual dip around the AC and water collects. I am faithful about dumping the water after each rainfall to keep the surface dry. What say you--do you think the baking soda will do any good or am I wasting my time?

Hi--we are full-timers and utilize inside storm windows on our Toyhome. Having Rv'd in many different rigs over the past twenty years, we have experimented with many inside storm window methods from rigid to flexible. Overall, we have found that the window film, that you attach to the window frame with double-sided tape and shrink with a hair dryer, provides the best results overall. They are cheap and work easily. If we find we need more or less air, they go up or remove easily. Hope this helps and good luck!

Hi--we have a '92 Itasca with the same problem. As we full-time and have lived in ours for the past five years, we have dealt with this issue several times. Finally discovered that if I used two AC gaskets, one on top of the other, it raises the AC unit off the roof and allows for a little more compression and stops the leak. Also am conscious of the standing water up there, so after a rain we either move the Toy or jack up one corner and dump the accumulated water. If we weren't living in it, we would make sure that it was parked off-level so the water wouldn't stand on the roof. Many posts about this problem and as many solutions. Good luck!

Hi all--just had major service performed by the Toyota dealer. They reported that the fuel system needed a good cleaning including the fuel injection system and the throttle body which were especially dirty. Most of my driving is highway and I usually use some kind of top cylinder lube like Lucas. Every once in a while, I run some injector cleaner. With 96K miles on my V-6, I still get about 15 mpg. Am I wasting money on the additives I use, especially in light of the "dirty" report or should I use something else? What do y'all do?

Hi--congrats on you maiden voyage! We have a '92 Itasca in which we full-time. The obvious answer to your problem is water volume in and water volume out. Don't know how you are using the water, but if you or DW are using it like you are at home, with the dump valves closed, you will be surprised how fast both tanks fill up. Although the manual says 12 gallons, I have personally measured input and output on my tanks, and neither one is near specs. Try hooking up to a sewer outlet, and using it as you did, and I'll bet you will have not more problem. If that is the case, you will just have to be aware of how much water you are putting into those tiny tanks when your dump valves are closed. Hope this helps.

Hi John and Sue--DW and I have full-timed for the past 19 years. During that time we have owned three Toyhomes, a "Toye" among them. We currently have our third Toy, a '92 Itasca Spirit. When I owned the Toye, I tried to find out all I could about its lineage. From what I learned, the Toye was a cut below the Winnebago warrior in fit and finish. We loved our Toye and it was great in every way. If I can answer any specific questions, please don't hesitate to message me. Charlie Trueland

Hi all--finally decided to have the local dealer do some maintenance work on the '92 V-6. Estimate is $3200.! They are going to do everything and anything that need doing at almost 100K miles. Will report back when we get the Toy back.

Hi all--still trying to decide whether a dealer or my mechanic should do some routine maintenance on my '92 V-6. Approaching 100K and would like valves adjusted, timing belt replaced, etc., etc. Before I draw up my list of things to be done, the dealer today quoted $650. to replace the timing belt, water pump and "drive" belt? How does this sound? Having trouble deciding whether this sounds like a fair price.

Hi and yes I do know about the shim system. Therein lies my quandry--mechanic or dealer?

Hi all--Toy is approaching 100K and is due for some routine maintenance, i.e., valves adjusted, new water pump, timing belt, etc. 1992 V-6 with 96K on the clock. Local mechanic says he can handle the work. When I asked about the valve adjustment being problematic, he responded "no problem, specs are online and it is old technology" Dealer will do the work, but he is notoriously expensive. Which would you choose and why? Thanks!

Hey Rick--congrats on your upgrade. How about sharing the details? Where did you buy the reman? How much did it cost to have the switch made? Think we are fast approaching similar territory as we full-time and our 3vz is feeling tired. Thanks--Charlie

Hi all--planning to do some PM on our 92 Itasca this summer. We spend the summer in the Pocono Mts. of Pennsylvania. Looking for a mechanic to adjust the valves, replace the water pump and timing belt, etc., etc. etc. Does anyone have a suggestion as to a trusted mechanic in that area. I have an email to the local dealer asking whether they can handle it. Thanks all.

I second the vote for cleaning with Barkeepers followed by three to four coats of ZEP Wet Look Floor Finish. Read the threads on the Good Sam Forum regarding Red Max Pro (aka ZEP) at www.rv.net Did my '92 Itasca three years ago and other than washing with plain water, the finish looks just as good as it did when I applied ZEP. Can't say enough good about it.

Did you check under the sofa? Water tank and pump are usually located under the sofa and the drain valve is a pull type that usually has a ring in the end of it to grip when you pull up to drain. Hope this helps.

Hi--we have an Itasca Spirit ('92) and installed the Extend-A-Stay just as your described a few years ago. As we full-time, it provides us with the ability to use a portable tank without having to move the rig for propane fills. Works like a champ!

Hi--our '92 Itasca has the identical setup. Have replaced the water pump and it is no big deal. Look under the sofa and you will find four lag bolts which hold the sofa to the wooden side where it is mounted. Remove these lags and the sofa lifts out of place. Now you have easy access to the water pump. We needed to replace the plastic hose that connects the outside water fill to the tank at the same time as it had become brittle with age. Good luck!

Hi Stamar--sounds like you are letting others and their opinions stigmatize you with their opinions. We have been full-timers for the past 17 years and over that time we have owned seven different rigs, three of which were Toyhomes. Our present full-time rig is a '92 Itasca Spirit with the Toyota V-6. There are many challenges living in an RV for the winter, but they can be easily solved. Please feel free to email me at chartrue2@aol.com with any questions I might be able to answer for you. Good luck in your endeavor and welcome to the full-time community.

Hi--don't think your heater has a pilot light as they were done away with in RVs in the late seventies. Your ignition should be by spark igniter which is automatic after about a minute of the fan running. You should hear it clicking as it tries to light the burner. This assumes that there is gas in the line to ignite. Strongly suggest you have a qualified tech service your heater if it hasn't been used for a while as propane appliances require a certain degree of knowledge and skill to operate safely and properly. Good luck!