TinMan-Scarecrow-Dolphin

I have already removed my passenger seat, overall in very good condition even if half it's 38 years....except for the underside. The springs have disinterested, leaving only their oxidized stained imprint in the foam, otherwise I wouldn't be able to say for certain what should be there🤔

Thanks, Linda. That makes it an easy decision. Well, I've just gotten set up to work on my poor Dolphin. So, naturally, it's beginning to storm.🙄

Thanks, Linda! So, if these are rust-prone, what's your recommendation? As for the fans, I have been salvaging the little 12vdc fans from computers and am going to see if I can't rig a few of these up for ventilation purposes. I don't have the exact numbers in front of me, but when I removed the range hood, I noted that the exhaust fan consumes ~3x the power and moves less than 50% c.f.m. of the average desktop CPU fan. More importantly, the fan on my kitchen hood is quite noisy. Anyway, if you have a recommendation for replacement vents, it would be appreciated. It's hard to tell what options are of a decent quality from pictures, and the prices seen to vary widely.

Where did you purchase the metal framed vents? I am getting ready to address these and any suggestions would be appreciated!

I have been consulting with a master woodworker I met 20+ years ago, and he has suggested using yellow pine and white oak (an important distinction as red oak is very susceptible to wood destroying organisms). The white oak is the heavier of the two. With weight being a consideration that precludes the use of many species that would otherwise make a coach capable of enduring years of exposure to moisture, particularly certain tropical hardwoods. I have thus far sourced enough wood to begin a modest production line, and the yellow pine truly is impressive. I salvaged this variety from a house a block away that was demolishing a room which had 6" × ¾" yellow pine t&g walls from the 1950's. Needless to say, any shrinkage or twisting that might have taken place did so decades ago. I have been ripping the boards down to match the final dimensions found in my 85 dolphin; ¾"², ¾×1¼, and ¾"×5½"(one 8'piece below the side window of my 300 "den" floor plan. I am going to use white oak along the top perimeter, where the roof joists rest, as well as the framing that's below the floor level and more likely to be exposed at some point. (Though I am still considering an alternative material for the inner facing portion. The ⅛" ply is not a good solution in the long term.). Also, the load bearing pieces for the cabover will be white oak. As for the joists that create a bow on the roof, I am currently sifting through the wood that I have been collecting from a mill down the street from me that makes moldings. Poplar is DEFINITELY NOT an option, but I have scored a good bit of cedar, which offers amazing flexibility. I've yet to discuss this with my buddy on this matter so am still not certain which way I'll be going in that regards.

It's worth mentioning, I've been seeing quite a few shady FB posts for various Toyota rv's. The easiest to spot are the ones that, upon clicking "seller's profile", you'll find the same listing in 5 or 10 different states. Beyond that, if any post requires that you respond via an email address (usually superimposed on the image itself so as to avoid FB algorithms), don't do it. Flag it as a scam and move on

It's worth mentioning, I've been seeing quite a few shady FB posts for various Toyota rv's. The easiest to spot are the ones that, upon clicking "seller's profile", you'll find the same listing in 5 or 10 different states. Beyond that, if any post requires that you respond via an email address (usually superimposed on the image itself so as to avoid FB algorithms), don't do it. Flag it as a scam and move on

Well, I thought that cpu fans was an idea that I would be introducing to others! Nonetheless, seeing that I'm not the only one does give me a little reassurance that it was a good idea, especially when you look at the CFM:Amp draw ratio! And, best of all, virtually silent.

If it's what I think it is, it is 3/16" or 1/4" ply

Oh, no need to insert email address I guess. It's different from the email to this account, but either is fine,. THANK YOU! NICK

Hey Mike, any chance you still have that 40 point procedure info available regarding the rear axle swap you undertook? Nearly a decade has gone by so the 6 lug toy full floaters are becoming increasingly rare and costly. My 85 Dolphin has the cookie, and it's the one thing that has me concerned; other than that, she's got 45k my, had extensive damage from small leaks left for long periods. So, with a capable rear, I will have zero doubt as to the vehicle's reliability. Thank you! Nick Ntah81@gmail.com

Hi Linda, I stand corrected. It was on this forum, I had apparently signed up a while back, but more recently had messaged as a guest

Hi, I am in the process of repairing the damage brought about by leaks that are seemingly common to many of the 'stick & tin' type Toyota RV's Assuming the images I have uploaded are visible, you'll find the notes that I made pertaining to the current portion of the coach that I am focusing on, the rear and passenger side walls, including the rearward doorway (if I understand correctly mine is the "300" layout) leading to the rear kitchenette. My primary question: is there a trick to removing the side and rear upper cabinets without destroying them? The side cabinet has 3 screws visible on the forward side panel, with two visible on the rear side panel (is there a third obscured by the cupboard above where the fridge goes?) I also want to express my appreciation for the time taken by everyone who has made this amazing resource what it is. Linda, not sure if you remember me, but my name is Nick. I have communicated with you a few times via the site's FB page(?). My username was Nick Dolphin, but when I tried recovering my password, the email link was not functioning. Not a big deal, at that point I hadn't contributed much of any value to this wonderful site. Thanks in advance! Nick