Tom W

The expansion cold water to running temp should push water into the expansion tank however the next morning the radiator should be completely full theirs a leak somewhere or the caps not working right,are you sure the gauge is right. The last comment about the Converter is possible also. A friend with a honda has a similar problem with the water we pressurized it over night its the head or gasket never been fixed adds about a cup of water a week and doesn't run hot and doesn't get worse 2years ??, this does seem to be a populars subject! Ever heard the expression about keeping it simple its been used on me a few times. One note the ears where the Cap ramps down if worn will lower the pressure rating had the experience of a head being pulled to find out the was the neck on the radiator worn

I think I have the same unit as yours. AC is a 9000 BTU pulls 9amps barely does the job came with a 2.5K Kohler, I think doing the math a honda 2000 would do the job if mine go's out thats what I'm going with just make a slide and putting it in the same compartment & move it out when running. The honda is quiet and will idle down with a light load, the Kohler is loud & runs 3600 no matter what the load is, only use it when we have to.

My works how well don't know, its a V6 I use the OD as much as possible and cut it off if its going to shift,with this much weight and wind resistance I would think the cruse would be hard on the trans(to much shifting), just my thoughts.

I have the same unit their are four drains for the water two in back of the sofa rings that you pull up to drain and two under the stove area a little sliding door &valves that turn. To drain mine, drain system and hot water heater then I use air to blow out lines, where we're at sometimes I don't drain it as we use it in the winter not that cold,just monitor the weather and use a space heater on nights as required. Those frame extensions are pitiful my spare is mounted on the rear bumper even that might been to much when going over bumps, I've thought about underneath it would require moving or rerouteing a gas line.

I purchased a white paint for RV's (Walmart) similar to the snow white,mine had a aluminium Panel center of the roof, painted the entire roof and seams 1 gal just covered it. It still looks good a year later not cracking and cooled it down somewhat and makes the seams more visible as to seeing where cracks could be in the caulking

I'm with Jim on this one my had about 80,000 miles looked like they had never been done, but the grease was in good shape and not a drop of gear oil in either side, Differential was full, I did repack them.

I have a older 2.5K Kohler it does the job but I wouldn't use it in a campground if their others camped its loud only use it out the way places when its hot,if it goes out,will probably get the Honda 2000 for the 9000btu ac. The mounting on the rear bumper with the weight bouncing as you drive down the road?? the rear frame on ours 21ft Winnie is not good for any extra weigh, I would put it in the side compartment and fab a slide to pull it out and a leg to drop down for support for using it. Just my thoughts.

If you factor in ambient temp and altitude the generators rating goes down quite a bit. Here the altitude is 3 to 4 thousand ft one place we go it 9000ft.

There several things to figure the startup of the AC compressor is a lot more than the running amps, also the cycle time when the compressor shuts off and restarts on the temp control should be a wide differential so the Head pressure has a chance to go down so the start won't be so hard. Altitude & temperature also derates the generator,at one point I think I found that the Honda 2000 would power my 9000 BTU unit not so sure about the area we go where its 9000ft,at the present its a older Koler 2.5K noisy and has to run full bore 3000 rpm even under a light load. Ive heard the Honda runs a lot quieter when the Kohler gives up, will probably go with the Honda just built some kind of slide where the old gen sits and use it that way.

I don't know about a kit but valves can be added for hi and low side for servicing their are some clamp on piercing type& solder on which are better but it can be checked by temps also. The 9000 BTU unit is just barely enough cooling for a 21 footer adding freon if it doesn't need it won't help. I'm wondering where you live the furnace is the last thing on my mind at this time.

If I read this right a pint of fluid in 5000 thousand miles not much, I wouldn't jump to conclusions about the worst thing without checking it out more, of course with my luck??

I've also heard of bad things happening on a trans that had not been serviced for a long time when flushed. On mine I just drain whats in the pan about 2 1/2 QTs fairly often kind of like a refresh, some really large diesels they never change the oil when acid levels get to a certain point they dump some & add more also they run it through a centrifuge.

Might as well add 2 cents worth we had heating problems with some new Equipment only in 100 deg weather They used something called water wetter and cut down on the Anti freeze ratio for the Summer. In a different unit with a heating problem or so we thought after a lot of work and wasted time it turned out to be the fill neck on the radiator the ramps where the cap turns down as the cap is tightened were worn so the 10 psi cap wasn't down far enough to hold the correct pressure spitting out water when running like a head gasket, was a bad call, replaced the fill neck problem solved.

Synthetic oil was being used more in some of the Equipment I worked on sometimes it helped and sometimes on older equipment seals wouldn't hold, they started using Viton seals because the syn wouldn't affect them. Myself I wouldn't chance it on my old stuff another thing that happened was some synthetc's were mixed with mineral oil by accident and the whole mess would jell and that was a mess to get flushed, I think its overhypped

If you have 12v to the back, Maybe bad grounds in the light assembly's mine have rivets in the housings using a couple of hammers and re-preening them helps, or where they ground to the frame could be a problem.

Mine is a 92 Winne 21ft I seem to remember the book stating C at 50psi which is what is on it now,due to age plan on tire's this year so far have only found D rated tires which would be somewhat higher rating, and I hope the ride doesn't suffer. Someone posted here about a similar unit with a very harsh ride I'd hate to buy 6 new tire's and find out afterwards. Overkill

Torque if it comes in at a higher rpm then OD wouldn't be to good, I would rather have lower gearing ( rear end ) or a higher number instead of 4.10 maybe a 5 something to 1, Just my thoughts more torque out of these wishful thinking. Maybe the eng is not that bad on dissemble and some measuring who knows with heads off is there a ridge to speak of?. I check all machine work after its done there have been mistakes, last one had rebuilt heads on when I discovered they pulled the threads on several of the cam towers they paid for the helei coils.

I replaced all of mine last spring, what I remember is they start out on the left side so if you lose it there they will be out all the way across the top and its not just two wire running across thier packed (jammed) in there, maybe it could be called daisy chained.

I have the same unit as yours keep the tires at 50psi-55psi air bags 40-60 rides not to bad maybe the roads are better here or the brand of tires?? are diff. Next year I'm going to have to replace tires don't have a lot of choice as to brands not that many available is this size, it did cross my mind about the ride changing with new tires.

Oxygen regulator thats a new one to me learn something everyday, Not sure about your mechanic though. Sensors every 30,000 miles ??? not trying to start a flame ifs its that bad get rid of it.

I think the four speed is direct in fourth and five speed is about 12% over in 5th if it barely holds 55mph with the four speed a five speed wouldn't help unless the rear end was even lower geared.

I agree with the fishy,adjusting the valves they are shims they might need to be checked and may a couple that need adj they shouldn't change much over time. The shims are pricey from Toyota and a tool is needed to do it, this eng isn't that bad its just that rumors get started, sometimes a bad repair then they all get blamed.

It kind of falls in to the area don't ask don't tell, or common sense why stir up a hornets nest I did that was about 8 they were faster then me

Maybe take out one of the cab seats and go out the front

If I read it right, on a smaller toy it was silicon,maybe same on the one ton axel