Skydancer2992

Only one engine, the 3.0 liter V6, 3VZE. The head gaskets were improved.

How about a U-Store-It place? I've heard of people living in the storage units. A few years ago I kept my RV parked in a storage lot and paid $35 per month. Having a fence and automatic gate would provide some extra security.

Fluorescent glow rods along the frame so that the RV appears to float on a cloud of blue light.

Maineah, I only noticed the overly long oil light with the 22RE and FRAM. With the V-6 engines in my camper and 4Runner, I've not had that issue. So I occasionally use a FRAM or whatever I find on sale.

My 91 Warrior also has connectors on either side, aft. Using my voltmeter, the connectors have voltage when the running lights are on. One could wire in some cool LED's on the bumper.

The motorhome is a nice experience. The people are the next pleasant surprise. I've met a lot of great folks at campgrounds.

When I had a 22RE, I noticed a big difference between filters with an anti-drainback valve (Toyota, NAPA, Walmart) and ones without (FRAM). If I used a FRAM, the oil light would stay on longer at startup. Also, the engine would sound like it was running rougher. I quit using FRAM.

I'm using a Futon mattress. My Warrior was missing the cutout but it came with two pieces of plywood that covered over the cab cut out. If I wanted more ceiling space, I can fold over the futon mattress and then move one of the plywood pieces forward. After a few trips, I quit opening up the overhead. That area has become too useful for storage of bedding, towels, and laptops.

Bottom Dollar Surplus on ebay will occasionally sell a used unit, AC and cover for about $300.

Has both the 22RE and the 3VZ sections. http://ether3al.com/93fsm/

By leaning on one side of the toilet you can create a slight tilt that leaves the nut free to turn (usually by fingers), then lean on the other side. Installation is the reverse of this process. My toilet is the Thetford Aquamagic IV and I had to replace the valve last month. Fortunately, the kit includes a new seal as well as the valve. I paid $25 on Amazon.

Irving, where did you buy your MPG meter? Some of the Ecomodder links indicated non-availability.

Diesels are usually much more reliable than gasoline engines. Fewer parts and systems to wear out. They tend to be harder to start in cold weather and may have glow plugs to aid in that. They offer more torque at low RPM so they can seem to be more powerful than their horsepower rating. Did you take a test drive in both homes? (let the owner drive it if he/she is not comfortable with you driving). You can tell a lot by listening to how a vehicle rides. (all cylinders firing, bearings quiet, exhaust quiet, suspension smooth). The diesel home sounds like it was used regularly and maintained. Tires are not cheap. The diesel sounds good to me.

Irving, when an alternator is supplying electricity, its mechanical resistance to the engine movement is in proportion to the amount of electrical current generated. If you introduce a contactor in series with the alternator positive wire, you can switch the output of the alternator on and off. Conceivably, you could have two switches in the cab. One would turn the alternator on full time. The second would allow the brake circuit voltage to activate the alternator. If you let the engine battery drain and subsequently recharge from campsite or home power, you could claim to own a plug-in, hybrid camper!

For your alternator, you could add a mode that has the brake light circuit activate it. What are your side skirts made from? They look like thick lawn edging but that would need some reinforcement.

My 91 Warrior had been sitting a year or two. The transmission oil was cloudy and brownish. About two quarts came out the drain. I filled and drove it around. Still slightly discolored. Drained two quarts and filled. Took a trip and repeated. Now the oil is a nice red and clear.

I have a 91 Warrior with the V-6 and I read the ecomodder as well. My thought is to install a front hitch onto the Warrior. The hitch will allow me to have a removable front air dam, in case I ever need a tow. Or put a temporary winch, bike rack, gear locker, etc. I've also thought about some fairings in front of the air hatches. These would be foam and fiberglass construction similar to kitplane construction. I also travel primarily in overdrive but often at 60 to 70 mph as I have limited vacation and time is precious. At that speed, I'm seeing around 12 mpg but it varies substantially with prevailing wind. Do you have some pictures of your improvements?

The Progressive manual says,"Proudly Manufactured in the USA."

Air braking - the aerodynamics of these motorhomes provide excellent air brakes. Turbo switch - when I need extra power to pass a slowpoke or go up a hill, I hit the AC switch and turn it off. The small surge of extra power helps. Swing wide - on a turn. Since the rear wheels tend to follow inside of the turning circle of the front wheels, make turns a little wider for clearances of objects inside your turn (like parked cars, gas pumps). Conservation of momentum - in hilly country, I tend to conserve momentum coming down a hill in the form of speed to make some distance up the next hill. Follow the herd - I follow a group of trucks or a truck. Better MPG. Also, speeders zooming up from the rear tend to avoid a herd of large vehicles.

You may get more bounce. However, bottoming out - when the axle hits the frame (or rubber bumper on the frame, if present) is much more unpleasant, like a jack hammer bang. On a cement road with uneven expansion joints (near 4 Corners Monument, New Mexico comes to mind) it can be a steady bang-bang-bang, resulting in discomfort for she-who-must-be-obeyed in the back.

Estimate what you are doing with the center of gravity of the vehicle. Above the rear axle or slightly forward will give you better handling. A large weight aft of the rear axle, the camper feels like it does not want to come out of a turn.

When my fuel pump was going bad, it operated intermittently. It stranded me once and then started fine the next day. On my 85 4Runner, the factory fuel pump lasted 100K, and then the next two Autozone fuel pumps lasted about 60K each. On my 96 4Runner, the factory fuel pump is still running fine after 340K miles. Sometimes you can temporarily revive a fuel pump slapping the gas tank firmly with the palm of your hand. My 85 Toyota had a round access hatch under the rear seat to access the fuel pump. I'm considering a modification on my camper. The hatch made the fuel pump changeout into a 30 minute delay.

My 91 Warrior is built on a 90 chassis.

The walls are not very strong, particularly for the mount you are describing, where the moment arm of the extension would multiply the force on the mount. However, you can attach a doubler over and beyond the mount area. Basically, a sheet of reinforcing material that spreads the force from the mount to a larger area. A 3/8" thick of plywood that is larger surface area than the mount could be glued/screwed to the wall; then attach the TV mount to the doubler. Since the cab over structure is subject to droop, it may be worthwhile to make your doubler the size of the entire passenger wall in the overhead area.

You should be able to quickly bench test each isolator by using a jumper from the engine battery side to the activating contact. Leave the coach side disconnected and instead, watch the voltage rise on the meter. For why you may be getting the same voltage on both sides of the isolator is that one of your accessories may be connected to both sources, creating an alternate path for both systems to power up. In a more unlikely situation, there are isolators that look identical but they activate when the middle terminal is grounded. Smaller vehicles systems, like a Cessna airplane, the ignition switch activates the main "isolator" by grounding it, and then the battery is connected to the plane's power bus.