WME

Yes shut off water pump and drain black tank. Pour some Pine Sol or something that smells good in the tank after you dump it. So that when you remove the toilet the smell isn't to deadly

I don't know specifics about the Regenair unit. But the last 12v evap cooler I saw had a water chamber and the fan motor, through some gears, turned a drum with the pad on it. I guess some could use a water pump and trickle it down the pad. There usually a float valve to keep the water at the correct level in the cooler.

If its a 16" then you can go to single rear wheels, but that going to be $$500-600$$. Rims, tires, and with a 100k on the axles you should get new axles too. IMHO cool your jets and keep looking for a newer one with the right axle

Unscrew the water fitting. There should be 2 nuts on the base that hold the toilet to the floor. Remove the nuts and CAREFULLY remove the toilet. It may stick a bit to floor to again be careful. You will be left with the mounting flange on the floor, duct tape it up . Get a new gasket when you reinstall the toilet.

Fill it up to the brim and look under it. The leak will be obvious. Common problems is the fill hose or the vent line, less common is a bad gasket for the fuel pump or the sender for the gas gauge.

On a 22r series engine the seal rides on the rear snout of the vibration damper. The problem when replacing the seal is torquing the damper bolt. It takes 120 lb ft to do it right. Unless you have a way to lock up the engine all that happens is the engine just turns and you end up with 50-60 lbs ft on the bolt and it will come lose.

Stick a small ac box fan in a window, open another window as far away as you can get. Let the vent fan run 24/7 until the smell is gone. Note this may take several weeks. You have to remove the smell not cover it up.

The Onan is probaly the only one that can be bought with a propane fuel setup. BUT the gasoline Onan is rated at 2800w the propane version is only 2500 w. Propane generators also cost more. IF your willing to down size your A/C to a 9000 btu unit, then a Honda 2000 would run the A/C OR the microwave, just not at the same time. The Onan 2800 will run the factory 13,500 BTU A/C or the Microwave, but not at the same time. The Onan 2800 would run the 9000 BTU A/C and a small microwave at the same time.

Well thats sort the question, what is the JOB you want it to do????

What do you want to run with it?? The "normal" unit for a late model Toy is an ONAN 2800 Microlite, be prepared to spend $$.

No idea which cap it is. I went to my Commerical Refer guy and told him I needed a hot start cap. He asked what A/C and looked it up and gave me a cap and instructions. That was 5 years ago. WME

The pivot point is the front axle, so if you raise the rear end the front bumper gets lower. My air bags will raise my back bumper over 6 inches, from 10 psi to 100 psi. But at the drivers door that's about 1 inch of lift.

Help me, I've fallen into the 60's and can't get out

What size A/C?? I have an Onan 2800 and a 13.500 A/C. It did what you are describing. I had to install a Hard Start Capacitor on the A/C to get things running right WME

I winterize my Toy and then use bottled water for all my needs. I mix up a 50/50 batch of water and RV antifreeze to flush the toilet with. In WY finding open dump sites can be a problem in the winter. When you return home it still below freezing everywhere.

I just did a 3000 mi trip, 13.7 MPG @ 60-65 with a 22RE and automatic, 6160 lb weight. 14-15mpg sounds good for a V-6 Of course the simplest way to get 20 mpg is to lie about it, just like everybody else is doing who says they can get that MPG on a long trip. I have gotten 21 mpg, but I was in Yellowstone NP driving 35-40 mph, but it was only one tank.

Remove the cam cover and look at the chain. If it is 2 row then you have an early short block 22R, if it is a single row then you have a late model tall block. In any case the short block engines all use the same timing kit and the tall blocks all use the same kit.

You cant get there from Reno. I've taken the route I suggested but in a car. If your Toy is in good condition go for it. If your transferring a new purchase the the interstate has more places to get help. WME

With proper planing Winter camping is possible. I've camped at -15. 4WD is another story there were about 30 something 4WD Toys made and maybe 18 or so left.

How did you check the charging system. When that happened to us on our trip the battery voltage went from 14.3 to 12.1 in about 10 min. I jumpered the house battery in and drove for 8 hr with out an alternator.

Avoiding the hills may not be the best route. But anyway, 395 to Lakeview, 395/20 to Bend, 97 to Biggs, 84 to Portland and 5 to Seattle. 395 is not the best road and there is LOTS of nothing on it. Towns are sorta far apart.

NO. The isolator will prevent the converter from charging the truck battery

You aren't going to come close to breaking even, so the only way to recover some of your money is to use the RV. Use it on short trips all summer long. If you still feel its a bad deal then sell it next spring.

There should be a small plug with a hex head on the suspension points. Remove it and install a Zerk fitting. Grease the joint remove the Zerk and put the plug back in. Its sorta of a PIA but you only need to do it every 3-4 years.

Don't forget your Deadhead bumper sticker