WME

Best bet is a properly reinforced hitch and a trailer

Whatcher budget??? Cam, header, new Weber Carb, head with OS valves and a 3 angle valve job. Should give you a very street-able 115-120 hp engine, stock is around 97hp. 82 was the last year for the twin row cam chain (bullet proof) and what is called the short block. In 83 Toyota went to the single row cam chain (booo) and the tall block. Check your engine before ordering parts.

Lowes,,, ask for FRP

Wheres it say exempt???? P.S. It ain't

The stock engine is not an HD unit. There are to many self defined definitions of HD to guess what the re-builder means. Ask what is the diff between them.

Fixing the old axle would be the least desirable way to go. After all its just going to break again, The proper Toyota 1 ton full floater axle would be the way to go. Another choice would be to get your tape measure out and find an hd axle out of a smaller lorry and graft it in.

Well it is an ONAN, but the 3kw is an older design with a vertical single cylinder. I think they run at 1800 rpm so could be made quieter. The engine is exposed to the outside. The 2800 is a single but it runs at 3600 rpm and is a bit nosier, but it is mounted in a hush box that makes it quieter outside the RV

If it has the "old" axle it is just a standard Toyota pickup part. You will need an axle, bearing and a seal to get it going. As soon as you get it home change the other side too. From what I understand of things the Toyota 1 ton flatbed truck was not very popular in your part of the world, so an upgrade is harder. I think someone in Holland put a floater axle from one of the MBZ Vans under his. Best get your tape measure out and start looking.

Many variables. Get a tach and follow its instructions

Yes get a tach ASAP. Red line on a 22r is 5750 so yours should be about the same. 5750 in 3rd is about 75mph.

The mixture screw is for idle only. Riching it will help idle, cold starts and the off the line performance. Won't effect the top end. With out rejeting the carb about all you can do is raise the float level.

Its worth exactly what the seller will sell it for and what you will pay for it. Gather all the information you can to determine your price.

Yes same MFG, same size and same age. As you vary each of these the batteries life span gets worse. Type is most important (lead acid, AGM, Gel )Size is next and then MFG and finally age. Worst combo would be an AGM and a lead acid.

Most folks consider 50 watts about the minimum needed for long term boon docking. I have a 60 panel and it works for me when its warm outside. When I have to run the heater ( below 50 degrees) it is not big enough. After 3 days my battery is at 50%. You can charge two batteries in parallel if they are the same battery.

Best "overall" cam is what is in it. If you need more top end hp or more grunt for back trails then different cams work better. What you got and how do you want to drive it???? Remember you only have 2400cc to start with.

Remove the wiper arms, remove the air inlet grill. clean out the junk in the air box. There should be a small drain hole at the corners. Run a wire down the drain holes to make sure they are clear. If there is any rust use Rustoleum paint to stop it.

There was a Sunrader made in Ca and one made in IL (under licence). One had curved windows and one has flat. Can't remember which is which. The curved windows are sexier but very hard to replace. The flat ones are easy to replace.

I would rather climb the mountains, than deal with a headwind. I've been down to 55mph and almost floorboarded in a 30 mph headwind. Talk about BAD mpg

Look on Ebay for a small solar powered vent (the boats guys dig them). Mount it into a standard roof vent cover. Install the vent in the fall and let it run. Set the trucks dash vent to vent and the fan will pull in the air through the truck vent. Come summer reinstall the normal roof vent cover. You might try just opening a couple of window a crack and see if that helps before buyibg stuff. Also I've used a 60w light on a timer, the heat from it keeps the air moving enough to prevent condensation. WME

ELECTRIC TRAILER BRAKES. My trailer weighs around 900 lb, I pull it over the Rockies (slowly). Temp gauge, large trannie cooler are a must.

MPG goes up as the speed goes down. 65-70mph = 10-12 mpg, 55-60 mph = 14-16 mpg, 45-50mph = 16-18 mpg. Whats more important time or money

I camp in the winter. I use a 31 Trojan AGM battery. Its mounted inside and not vented (no longer recomended, but its been fine for 4 years) Cold weather greatly reduces a batteries output.

Get a heater bypass kit, and an antifreeze tap kit. I can winterize my RV with just 1 gallon of the pink stuff.

1. Its a Toyota truck so start at your local Toyota dealer. After that try Rock auto. 2. Balance the tires, check for a broken belt in a tire. Easy to see as the tread will wiggle back and forth when you spin the tire. Just jack up each corner and turn by hand. 3. You need to do more trouble shooting on the refer. Check for leaks (ammonia smell). In the worse case get a large block of ice and put it in the freezer and make your refer into an icebox. Keep the beer cooler that way, your not English are you???. 4. Your brakes are out of adjustment. The rear brake biases valve thinks you are driving an empty Toy pick up so its reducing the rear brake effort. Just raise the basis arm on the rear axle and you can get better braking. 5. No idea.. WME

Don't worry how it works, just DON'T use it EVER.