ToyoGuy

Looks like a quality rig, low miles, probably 10 mpg? https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/rvs/7526440514.html

Sorry Linda, You are correct, isolator connects first through the coach battery, then to power center, in my case it's a newer Progressive Dynamics, but essentially the same in layout as original. On the other... Turns out the late '84 year Rader my neighbor has is different and has an internally regulated alternator, but has the same original isolator that you pointed me to. His wiring harness under the hood is a bit different. My rig was not sold with that type of isolator, as I find no mounting-bracket holes existing anywhere near where it would have been installed on either fender-wall and the harness is not the same. I have the one that you pointed to as stock on order. Your ground statement is noted, (the old 3-connector diode isolator didn't use one at all, unless it was the mounting bolts). I will mount one locally as needed. On spinning, I offer you this quote that used to hang in my shop: "We have not succeeded in answering all our problems—indeed we sometimes feel we have not completely answered any of them. The answers we have found have only served to raise a whole set of new questions. In some ways we feel that we are as confused as ever, but we think we are confused on a higher level and about more important things." BR, TG

Hey thanks Linda. Because the original setup seems obviously changed and the main 12V cables from front to back are not well routed and old, I am questioning the #8 gauge Pos and Neg wires installed from the cab to the back of the coach/circuit distribution panel. For an 18' run it seems like a pretty minimal gauge. Seems like it would be good to change to #4 gauge wire. Also, I don't see why they ran a ground all the way from the cab / front to the back, when they could just ground to the chassis at the back. I have the luck of having a neighbor who also owns the same year and model SunRader 4x4 as me (how often will that happen?) and I'm going to do some comparison-checking on his system this morning. Maybe I'll get a better picture of what they did originally and what I want to do. BR, TG

Hey Maineah, This alternator is externally regulated, not sure if that's helpful. The regulator is new, as is the alternator. The voltage sensing wire/circuit in the wiring harness that goes to the regulator connector and the connector it attaches to the regulator with have both been cleaned and tested good. I have also re-tested the whole setup with an extra good regulator, so I believe the new regulator is not the problem. When I wire the isolator out of the system (all battys chg'd) and the system sees both 12V sources as a single one, everything runs/looks right (14.5 V) in voltage output from the new alternator/regulator combo. I have had solid state isolators fail before, so before I pay someone $200/hr (current hrly auto-electric $-rate here in paradise) to chase this further down the rabbit hole, I'm going to switch to a different style of isolator for $20-$40 bucks. Thanks WME, Good to know. TG

Thanks neilp, Never hurts to consider all possibilities, for sure. In my mind, it would seem that, if the over-charge problem disappears completely when House "+" battery connection, Truck "+" battery connection, and Alternator output "+" connection are stacked/connected on (any) single post, (which eliminates the isolator altogether), that the truck "+" battery terminal-to-isolator post wire is clean/good. That said, I am re-checking everything before I install the new (and different type) isolator. With the new non-solid state type, I believe I'll have to install a "true ignition source" connection/wire for a single added connection. Not sure where I'll grab it from yet, gotta consult the FSM or poke around. Or both. I am shopping new isolators now and there's some additional features that I need to understand more about, before I lay down my hard earned weasle-hides on the more expensive offerings. No problem though, I got time while the cushions get re-covered...... Before I visit Dubois BR, TG

OK, so I hook House batty, truck batty and Alternator together on a single post and I get correct Alternator charge voltage of 14.6 V. Does this make the case for a bad isolator? On Dubois... Well I guess Buffalo BBQ weekend,Timberjack Joe and the annual rodeo are goners by now. A friend of mine who was through about a month ago said Welty's General store gave it up after 130 yrs. I used to play weekends at the Ramshorn Inn and my girlfriend worked at the Cowboy Cafe. Wasn't much there then, wonder if everyone still says "you bet" and "Let'r buck" ; ) TG

I'll hook it all up and check it tomorrow. As a matter of fact, I talked to the local RV installer-guy this afternoon, and he told me he hadn't seen a SS isolator in years. Guess I'm showing my age again. The #48530 is $125 on Amazon, but it looks like it would be money well spent. Buy the best and only cry once. Thanks WME, BTW, I lived in Dubois for a bit a LONG time ago. Made it to Riverton and back once in a '57 Ford station wagon. Wish I had that wagon now... BR, TG

Well... 1.5 is thought provoking. Guess I never considered it ! Could this be legit? Lessee...house is still blocked by a diode from draining the truck battery, but alas, the truck can drain the house battys methinks. 2.5 leaves me where I was, with 15.7 V at the truck battery continually. I'm tempted to suspect the isolator, but "sources" say they either work, or not, and I did test it.

So here's the update on the (1 Volt +/-) overcharge condition, new voltage regulator, new alternator, all plugs examined and cleaned, grounds cleaned and batteries tested good or were replaced and were charged before these voltage tests were done at the isolator, which also tested good for isolation. Scenarios were: #1- Alt cable and truck- battery lead bolted together on middle (usually Alt) post (eliminating isolator) the world is good. Battery charging at 14.5 V. Didn't check empty outer posts. #2 – Alt cable on middle post and Coach-battery on number 2 side-post. No truck-battery hooked up, but the empty truck-battery post reads 14.18 V. The world is still good @ 14.3 V on Alt post and 14.18 V @ Coach-battery post. #3 - All cables hooked to respective correct-installation posts and getting 15.5 on Alt post and 14.5 V on both Coach-battery and truck-battery posts. If this is left this way @ idle, the voltage climbs towards 14.8 V and beyond on both coach and truck batteries. I have not left it running like this to find out how high ... #4 – Alt post hooked up and truck-battery post both hooked up and Coach-battery post empty. Empty Coach post 14.5 V, Alt post 15.7 V, truck battery post 14.7 V. Key out of ignition, all cables installed per normal, both truck-battery and coach-battery posts read 13V. Alt post starts @ about a 5 V reading and slowly declines to almost 0 V, but if the leads to the VOM are removed, the voltage slowly climbs again. Shouldn't there be no voltage here? Weird science. I think I need to do all tests again, but use the hot connection at the back of the alternator and see if there's any difference. Somehow the regulator thinks the isolator needs more current. Might need to re-check the voltage sensing wire/plug interface. Ah, schematics, what fun. BR, TG

Thanks Maineah, I previously used CRC Electronic cleaner and small bits of #500 paper with dental tools, but will back track,"excersize" the connections again and visually re-check everything. Sometimes these old spade-connectors can be tricky. It's frustrating because 15.6 V is only about a volt above commonly referenced threshold for charging a 12 v batty. Check and re-check.... TG

So here it is Saturday, and I have neglected to update, plus... I just had to follow-up after WME cited Occham's razor. I love this forum 'cause I get to hang out with worldly peoples !! For the uninformed: ”Occam's Razor refers to the process of removing all of the unneeded details and returning to the core issue of the problem. It also implies that the solution with the greatest odds of being best is the one that has the simplest logic." So anyway..... My SunRader was with my now ex-mechanic for about a week and a half for a cooling issue that was solved. When I got it back, I took it for a 1 hr drive up the coast and upon arriving, I discovered that it was way over-charging the system. ( evident in coach batteries, cab battery, distribution panel and solar controller ). After repairing all systems and fuses, and replacing batteries, I took readings and saw the 19 volts that Linda referenced above in this thread. After looking around on-line, I found this somewhat helpful link about over-charging: https://sparkys-answers.com/2009/02/1984-toyota-pickup-charging-system-over.html I then checked voltage for the voltage-sensing wire at the regulator (externally mounted) and had 12+V there, but all plug contacts looked mega-corroded, so I cleaned every connection/plug shown in the article. That brought me down to 15.6 volts @ low idle, and this is with all batteries charged to at least 12.9 Volts prior to test. Still too high, according to all available info. Because removing the alternator is a ROYAL pain in the butt in my rig, I replaced the regulator this morning. No joy, still 15.6 VDC @ idle with fully charged batteries... I then pulled the alternator to test at O'Riellys and sadly, it turns out, it cannot be checked outside of vehicle, by them anyway. No more specialty auto-electric shops around here anymore, must all be in Texas or Idaho. Therefore,.... Occhams razor! The old alternator is a NAPA brand, either Mexican or Chinese. I will be next looking for a replacement alternator that I won't have to worry about quality-of-construction on. (gotta get some laughs on that line) The Denso search starts at Rock Auto, one of Linda's faves. I did get a replacement alternator on guarantee at NAPA, but I won't install it because of suspect quality issues, the hassles pulling it back out and previous failure costs. I'll keep all posted. Much thanks for all data. BR, TG

Thank to all for your response, and I agree mpanzar, the less wire between, the better ! BR, TG P.S. Is it true that the colored plastic covering on all those wires holds the smoke in?

For all the Spark-meisters out there... Is it legitimate to check alternator output at the middle (+) lug of the battery isolator (wired to the alternator, near firewall), with the Neg VOM probe on a good ground? This is with the other two wires connected to the isolator. (Coach and Chassis) Why, you ask? Why get greasy down there, pulling connections off the back of the alternator, if I don't have to?..... Hope yer all well. BR, TG

New product from Murphy Inc. Concrete cinder block for anchoring vent-handle not included....

Thanks WLK, LCE is, in fact, at the top of the list with 2 others so far. Need to find what their install charges are. Everyone who builds likes it best when you use their guy or shop to insure a smooth and competent install. I am however, surprised to observe the difference in guarantees for stock or level 2 builds at this point. It certainly seems to highlight the amount of faith that builders have in their product. Thx, TG

Thanks mpanzar, I checked their website and I like that they offer stages of performance. I'll put them on my "to call" list. What level did you buy in at and what did you do with your motor when you did the switch? Thanks, TG

Well, Jim at the 22RE Performance shop is booked-up for the unforseeable future for rebuilds, and there's no one else local that's looking promising to me anymore. I've got no room/time to do the work myself, so I'm looking for a top-drawer rebuilder. Does anyone have any actual experience with LC Engineering stock 22R/RE motor builds and or installs? How about D.O.A. ,( also in AZ) ? They show a "22R – 22RE (motorhome/cab & chassis) 150 HP – $3,750",... ( heck, is that 150HP even possible?) YotaShop? Any other suggestions for a high-quality motor rebuilder? Thanks for any recs, BR, TG

I'm with you WME. This is about the cleanest Chinook (all the way through) that I have ever seen (except Nolan's, which are essentially are hot rod sleds) That being said,... I noticed this comment below the offering: " sold on BaT, sold again, and now being auctioned again, all within 3 years". I wonder why? Also, for us California types, trying to get smog on this stuff can be a mechanical and DMV nightmare. Not sure I could drive something that loud for hours, but it did seem to pull admirably uphill in 5th gear at about 1:58 in the driving video ! Cool vintage air-conditioner. Already up to $15K....good thing I'm poor... Hmmmm, lotto ticket, y'say? BR, TG

Sorry, still running stock Aisin. Can't help you with the Webber. My rigs off-site anyway. Maybe someone else out there can help. Good luck TG

The pricier 4x4 rig looks pretty tight and it looks like the seller's an experienced builder. Just over 500 hours seems like a miracle to me, but I guess it's possible. Having used DuraBond, I wouldn't employ it to anchor cabling on a roof, it's messy to pull up and sometimes takes up what it's glued to as well. I'm always thinking about the "next guy" when I can, 'cause sometimes he's me! : ) Also, being an 18 footer guy, I always wonder what that extra 3 feet of of cargo space, and what it gets filled with does to the performance of a 105 hp motor. I mean, you start out significantly heavier drive train-wise with a 4x4 right out of the gate. I wonder what she weighs in at? Clean lookin' that's for sure. Not much said about the frame, rust etc for an mid-west truck. Anyone had any experience with the Durabak paint product he's impressed with? I'm wondering about their gloss product, not the "bumpy" bed-liner that I wouldn't want as an all-over paint job. Always thinkin' BR, TG

"they are not to be found... " You'd think that after all this time, I would have known better than to have made such a foolish statement in present company. Thanks Linda, I'm on it. TG

Ah, more is revealed in the thread! It is an Air Silencer/ Resonator box! I guess it blocks the "hiss" of the intake and resonation of the air-cleaner chamber at certain RPM's... Good thing I don't need one, they are not to be found...

Thanks Linda, I wonder what's inside?, or if it's perforated, since I don't own one because my coach battery used to be there. (before I converted to 6 V deep cell x 2 in the back) Might have to call Yodaman on this one.

Howdy all, I am consulting the collective oracle of older carburetor-types in search of the purpose of this mysterious "air-box" device, ( behind radiator overflow bottle and next to white arrow in picture). I am in currently doubt of it's actual usefulness on a well-tuned 22R motor assembly and I am just running the stock plastic flex-pipe off the air filter out to the front of the grille, next to the radiator. Thanks for any informed thoughts or speculation. BR, TG