Supurcar

I should have left it alone, I think the star is a one direction only wheel. I can tighten it but I am not able to loosen it, I can hear the plate snapping away from the wheel but I cannot get any traction. I guess I have to pull the wheel off.

Yes I think they are self adjusting, but it did not seem to work. If I hit the brakes on the freeway it pulled to the left a little so I wanted to check them. I had them real close to perfect and then went just a little too far, I still have not been able to back it off. I am going to try to raise it up so I can get a better angle on it. I have the adjustment tool, it is just matter of getting the lock plate to let go for a second and there is hardly enough room for a wire to poke the plate back while backing off the star.

Thanks for the tips, I tried to find the plate but so far I can't get it. I am using a thick wire maybe twice the thickness of a hanger trying to hold the plate off the star. I am not sure if I should be trying below the star or to the left or right of it. I think I felt something on the lower right of the star, but tough to do both on my back it such a tight space. I will keep at it.

Well I noticed the parking brake had to be practically pulled to the rear bumper to engage, and it felt like it was braking uneven. I got underneath and adjusted the drums, and yes they where out of adjustment. Now I seemed to have tightened one side a little too much and I am unable to get it to back off. Is there a trick to this? I know in the self adjusting type there is a little plate that locks the star in, maybe I need to push it back with a screw driver while backing off the star? I hope I do not have to remove the drum adjust it. Thanks for any info here, it has been a long time since I have played with drum brakes.

I confess I got the idea from Greg's rocket boosters crossed with the Yodahomes concept. I kind of thought this "Cars" movie RV looked like a TMH, it is the Elvis RV in the movie.

Good points on the main water line. We usually have bottled water in the fridge plus the storage tank. I had written or added to a post on the bad smell coming from our pipes. We had many replies on how to get rid of the smell, we tried many. But guess what, the water coming out the hose is what smelled bad. I filled a cup of water directly from the hose at the Rv park and eureka I found the bad smell (and I already had a filter on the hose as well), so that being said I am also leary of screwing in the hose at any old RV park and want to have water I can trust for sure.

One should be the fresh water storage tank, usually has a threaded cap. The other should look like a hose bib, this one is for a water hose hookup at an RV park or home, or at least that is what mine if for. Attach the hose and use the water inside the RV like you would your home faucets. Be sure and check for leaks, water leaks fast under pressure.

I guess I am a little confused about the tire ratings. I understand the C and D ratings no problem. But some tires have a number rating like a 78s or 82s for instance. I have been told a Firestone tires with a 92s rating will work on a Toyota Motorhome. According to the scale I read it is about a 1300LBS rating for the tire. If I take that number x6 it should handle the weight of the MH. But I am not sure if that is a true way of rating the tire and the last thing I need to do is have to buy two sets of tires. I did find a set of C rated Yokohamas on TireRack.com.

I have the same issue, and I think it is common that the seals age and do not hold flush in place. This is a reach but I have had the thought to take out the rubber seal and try to fabricate an aluminum window frame for the over head area. The real trick would obviously getting the wrap around curved. I have not tried any of this but if there is a way to get an inner and outer window frame and bend it to fit it would be a permanent fix. The outer frame would have to be installed first then the glass then the inner. I also thought about an aluminum strip maybe lined with rubber to go over the existing rubber seal inside and out, and sort of clamp the existing seal in place. Again a lot of bends and work but a more permanent fix. I wonder if anyone has tried something like this?

I guess maybe you had bags too, I think the 2wds are lower up front as well. I was thinking of doing a minor lift up front so I can have enough air in the bags and still be level or closer to level. I find if I let too much air out of the bags I will bottom out sometimes, even after I added some Rancho 5000 shocks all the way around.

Mine is an '87 and it has the same running boards. I am wondering why both of our's are kind of jacked up. If you look at your picture and then buftooth his looks nice and level. Mine also is tilted forward like yours, maybe it is the 2wd or the airbags in the rear? My fridge cover got caught in the wind once and I stopped before it was torn off, it did get bent. It is made of a thin pot metal or aluminum, I bet you could fabricate something up for it easily.

I am guessing but I know some of these have a flap in the airbox that closes down like a choke and restricts air flow. Mine will stumble a bit sometimes when first started or restarted after only running a short time, kind of shakes a little or chugs. I am think that flap is closing too much and it is choking it out a little, it goes away quickly and then runs fine. Plugged fuel filter could also cause running conditions. Again these are guesses at this point.

And after looking more closely it looks like there is something missing on the inner side of the box frame as well, maybe a support bracket.

My first thought was a bad weld, or a weld gone bad. Regardless you have some work to do, it looks very unsafe to me. if there is a way to insert a smaller box tube inside the box frame and weld it might shore it up, but would be hard to do. I think a professional welder needs to repair this because of the safety issues. Sand it down so you can see what you have to work with, or how much good metal is left to weld. You may end up cutting a whole rear end out of a junked frame and weld it on. I am now going to inspect mine just in case.........

I guess I am as guilty as anyone, after ready about the DOT numbers; I checked my newer looking tires and they are ten years old, thank heavens they have not blown out yet, that is now first on my list to replace. They are Kirkalnd Costco tires so I went in to Costco and asked about them, I was told it is entirly possible they sat on the shelf for a few years not being a common size but still it was a shock as I thought the previos owner had just put them on.

I went ahead and replaced the shocks on mine about a year ago, I was told the Rancho 5000 would handle the weight and had a larger piston and was made for full sized trucks planning to tow or carry a camper. I think it helped going over potholes but I feel like the front end is still low. I had other more pressing issues to fix but at some point I will think of a way to shore up the front suspension, or add that torsion bar but the one that is on there now is pretty thick compared to the thin one on my 911. I am thinking my rear leaf springs are shot or maybe need those helper clamps. I do not want a big lift because the last thing I want in this thing is a high center of gravity, so maybe more of a leveling kit for the front and shore up the rear leafs is my goal here.

Aloha! We are going to Oahu this spring, we went to Hawaii a few years ago, we love the big island. On the weight issue I am wondering if you plan to use the water tank, and if you removed the propane tank as you mentioned putting some batteries there. I think if you are removing some weight you can balance the additions, if not you may be close to the limit. Because most places we go have water, we just bring some bottles for the dogs and do not fill the water tank and just hook up a hose when we dock. Maybe add some air bags in the rear, they are cheap and it might help. But full tank of gas, wet the thing is close to the max rating if I am not mistaken; a few hundred pounds might bring up to or over the limit. And I think it is true of all vehicles that bringing it up to the max weight limit/Towing capacity is not a great thing whether it is a Ford truck, Mercedes-Benz, or a Toyota MH. Another consideration is that you do not have as much range to travel, I think we drove around the island in a few hours. I might feel a little safer if I am going a short distance versus taking a 1200 mile trip overoaded.

Mine did the same thing, it worked fine, then once in a while had trouble igniting and then nothing just cold air. I thought maybe the battery was not charged up enough or my converter was not working. In my case the burner tip had simply corroded out, kind of like what happens to a gas BBQ, eventually the burner rots out. In my fraustration I had taken it to an RV repair shop because I was worried about maybe leaking gas and not knowing the entire system. Needless to say it cost me around $100.00 to have them replace a $14 part, ha ha. It was worth it to have them inspect and clean everything as well, and the piece of mind knowing I did not blow the thing up.

I checked the site, I put in that I wanted a "c" rating and then a "D" rating and both are unavailable or I entered soemthing wrong. I believe it is critical to have at least a "C" load rating on the 1 tons or RV use.

I have found with mine it is impossible to keep forward momentum in OD, which means I can not accelerate in OD and only on flat can I keep it from slowing down and dropping to 3rd. So if I am going uphill I either need to be going 75 MPH and hope to keep it in OD, or just leave it in 3rd. So it does not drop into OD and then slow down drop to 3rd, speed up drop to OD, slow down drop to 3rd repeat. I think it is better for the driveline to leave it in 3rd on hills anyway.

Mrs Supur here- Thank you for all the warm wishes! It was so sad to see it crumpled, Now to see it all new and refreshed does tikle me pink!! When it first happened and he wanted to scrap it my heart was so sad, so I thank all of you for encouraging him to get it repaired!! Keep on Motorin' Mrs Supur

Well here it is, I tried to save $$ where I could so I had an upstart body shop do the repairs for a little more than half of what the big shop in town wanted and it was what I expected. Not showroom but it looks as good or better than it did before. And I am still a charter member of "Yodahomes R Us" "May the fours (cyl) be with you" or should that be 2.4's ha ha.

Yodahomes R Us, The fours are with us. Or, use the fours luke. And finally "May the fours be with you" As in 4 cyl. ha ha. Well maybe not

I am no tire expert, but I would guess a few causes could be; -most people put low miles on their RV, so the tires look good but may be ten years old and dried out. -over or under inflated tires -road hazaards -tires rubbing on the rear duallys, because they are the wrong size or improper inflation. -under rated tire or not load rated for an RV I wish I knew how to tell if a tire with good tread is too old and needs to be replaced, the only thing I can think of is to look for cracking.