extech

are there 2 wires for the light? i thought only one. if so that wire should go to any light power and not try to have a dimmer on it

the gauge installer connected the light incorrectly. doesn't affect gauge operation

ok. the gauge has 3 wires. one is power. check each wire with key on. one will show 0 one should be battery v, the other may be less. disconnect either of the last 2. one of them will be battery v. reconnect and connect the other wire to ground. the gauge should go to it's upper limit. thats the wire going to the sender on the transmission if you connect your test light clamp lead to battery v when you probe the ground connection it will light if the wire is actually grounded. i know clear as mud

looks like factory dimmer is on the ground side. turning the dimmer knob increases the resistance to ground- dimmer lights.

unfortunately yes. axle comes out, then disassemble the bearing retention parts. if doing this i would have new inner axle seals ready on hand

are you more concerned with the gauge or the light

do you have a test light or multimeter

i don't see the symbol referred to. i would think g is ground, s is sender, and the other ignition.

loosen the master cylinder mounting nuts enough to pull it forward a bit. if you see fluid come out the master cylinder is bad

it's possible. usually that causes dragging brakes, squeeking, heat build up. your symptoms would suggest the pads are moved away from the rotor too far. warped rotors can do that, but you would feel a shudder when braking

do you need help with picture uploading?

could easily be a broken spring on the rear brakes, or master cylinder going bad

they don't usually last long

one of these? available wherever semi tires are delt with

these guys have a dually rear end and at least 5 wheels. i bought one of them european auto recycling inc. 3600 recycle road rancho cordova ca. 95742 916 638 3876

doug, you seem to be mistaken about how the toyota fan clutch works. silicon doesn't get thicker with heat. the front of the clutch has a bimetalic coil which changes passages inside to redirect the fluid to cause lock up. the temp it works at is kind of random, i think mostly due to age. new ones are really better than the ones originally installed

i have a 30 inch glass pack. not loud and free flowing

yea google absorption refrigerator

there is no main burner. when the pilot lights it heats a thermocouple which allows the gas valve to stay open to keep the "pilot light" lit.. understanding this should help you figure it out

seeing if the pilot light is lit can be a real pain. i have a dometic fridg. that uses the prism to view the pilot. i could never get my face in a place to see it. i have a cheap inspection camera that works with my phone. i turn the camera light off and hold it straight up at the viewing sight. when i push the starter button i see the spark flash on my phone. if the fire starts, pushing the button no longer shows the spark. still can't see the flame but at least i know it was lit

the shoes look to be against the anchor at the top = wheel cyl is compressed. the bottom of the shoes being forward is the problem yes? can you try the old spring going from shoe to backing plate

also appears the rear upper spring isn't on the post all the way

did you compare new shoes to old ones

i've never seen the small spring from rear shoe to backing plate. looks to be pulling shoes forward

depends on what tools you have. i would use a cut off tool to remove the weld, then slit the muffler tube to get it off the tube you want to save