86Dolphino

Well I’m gonna take a risk with mine because I’m tired of the leveling process. Maybe I can weld some angle iron to give a little more support. I guess if I destroy then lesson learned. I don’t see them getting bent up hurting the RV just my wallet bahaha

What ones did you mount up?

I’d say in the front. You should also have some for the other side of the shackle as well. those bushings won’t just drop in. You are going to have to press them in with something. That polyurethane is tough and doesn’t give like old fashioned rubber.

I got so lucky finding the complete 6 lug front end from a gentleman on Craig’s list even tossed in the spare I believe I got it all for like 150. Worked out great. Just make sure you get the dust covers because the 5 lug and 6 lug covers are different.

i had a similar issue my checks engine light would come on going down hill above 50 mph or so. My problem was the 02 sensor.

definitely getting hotter in OD period. Since I installed a transmission Temp sensor I can see the needle clime when in OD. Take it out of OD and the needle will drop. And that’s on flat surfaces

To me the best way to find a Toyota FF axel is start looking on Craigslist, the FB Marketplace and look for Toyota utility trucks and old Toyota u-Hauls they all have them I’ve seen them come up in the Reno area in the past. You can find one. The real question is time and money vs the condition of your rig.

BTW how did your leaf springs turn out? I’ve been wanting to change mine as well.

Well to me you got possibly two options. If that bolt is a stud I’d pull it out and replace the stud. If it’s not a stud you could try re-tapping the threads to see if you can get a better bite with the nut. Maybe someone else will chime in with better ideas.

No dice huh? Well my jacks arrive today so I’ll get a better idea on best locations

I’ve done some reading and seen a post or two on mounting leveling jacks to the rig. To be clear I’m not talking about stabilizers I’m talking 7500 pound lift capacity scissor jacks. here is a link Camco 48830 Eaz-Lift 24" RV Stabilizing Scissor Jack| Fits Pop-Up Campers and Travel Trailers | Supports Up to 7,500 lb.| 2-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKKS4W8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_G8TJD32CWBQN8C0PCFZE i figure with 4 of them that’s 30k pounds lift which is easily way more than I need I read WME post where he says he mounted his to in the front right near the front bumper mounts and the rears where he did his extra support on the extension rails. I was wondering if anyone of has some photos or advice before I get started? since my extension rails haven’t been reinforced I’m thinking of mounting the rear ones right where they meet the actual Toyota frame. all ideas and comments are welcome. If anyone has pictures that would be awesome. Hope everyone has been safe. thanks in advance for all the help.

yes I did. Got them off Amazon. Used a jig saw. One thing to make sure of if doing it, is to cut the hole just slightly smaller than needed. then you can push the cup holder in and it will stay in place. with two kids they are a must.

You know now that I look at the photos maybe there is hanging in the front of the bunk

Sorry Maineah that post above was in response to you

Honestly I don’t know. But on the passenger side it looks like a clean cut. Almost like a cutting wheel. And when you step back the overhead bunk looks straight no sagging, and really on the inside it looks like hell, but the walls don’t have any water damage. I got this old rv (78 cal camp) out of a package deal for 1600. the other was a 83 dolphin. I cleaned up the 83 and just sold it for 3200. So I’m in this old cal camp nothing. my plan is to bring the outside back to passable condition put air bags on all 4 corners and some 13 or 14” spoke wheels cleaned up the inside real nice and use this one for car shoes and cruising since it’s so short and small.

All good ideas thank you. the epoxy seems pretty easy. So does pop riveting another piece if I can find the same. i was also wondering maybe getting a small piece of aluminum and bending it to match the existing siding and using the aluminum filler rods you melt on with a torch. I would of course pull off the panel prior to throwing a flame to it hahaha.

Anyone got any ideas on how to make this hole/crack look like new or close to without replacing the siding? ive used flex seal in the past (recommended by Linda, thank you again) but I feel this area has so much moment when traveling flex seal won’t hold up in the long run, and it’s a large area on the driver side. The passenger side is not as bad. So I thought I’d ask

Yea it has the screw. I’m just gonna make a metal one. Thank you Linda. Ctgriffi, no it’s not like that one.

Anyone know the part number for these lenses for I need one too. Lol

I use to paint houses so I’m pretty good at running a clean caulk line with no boogers. Another tip is use a little simple green on your fingers that will help keep it clean.

I do have 1 more questions I have tan plastic piping stuff in between the cabinets and the ceiling, would you just cut that out and caulk it in for a nice corner or what?

Thank you Linda. That all makes sense. I’ll definitely use kilz primer. A accent color does sound like the right thing to do .

Well I would like them painted, but more than anything I want to keep resale value in mind.

Let me ask everyone. I’ve been considering painting my cabinets in my Rv a nice grey color. But I’m wondering do you think it hurts the value or adds to the value? So I’m asking all of you what do you think? If you were in the market would you like to see the original wood panel cabinets or nicely painted ones? the current condition of mine isn’t perfect but not bad some scuffs here and there, but overall I’d say they are 90%ers