ports

Derek and Linda! Thanks for the reply. Derek, I will look at the diagram you sent. Linda, the leak only occurs when I am trying to pressurize the water system. If running fresh water or city hook up, I can get water to all faucets but there is water running down onto the top of the gray tank. I almost sure it is not the gray tank but some valve I can't locate open. Do you know where the valve would be located back around the water heater tank. I can have all faucets off and the water will still come out on top of grey tank and then run down. I don't believe there is any water in the gray tank. nk. Thanks again.

Just wanted to update everyone. I shut the two valves near the water heater tank, partially filled the fresh water tank and then tried to pressurize the system. I still had the same leak above the gray tank. No water inside the motorhome. The amount of water coming out gives me the impression that a valve is open. It appears that the two visible valves by the water tank are to allow water back to the toilet and the bathroom sink. I get water to all the faucets but can't find where the water is coming from above the gray tank. Are there drain valves back there that I could be missing perhaps blocked by the water tank. Is there anywhere I should be looking for the drain valve? with the amount of water coming from above the gray tank, if it was a loose fitting or crack in the line I certainly would see water inside and I don't. I'm really getting frustrated and could use some more advise. I know that being a 1994 it is old and things will happen. It was taken such good care of and I would like to do the same. Please hepl. Ports

T, Linda, and 5 Toyota. Thanks for your responses. I was away visiting my daughter in NH and just got back. I posted in the general discussion and received something from Derek. It appears I may have left two drain valves open near my water heater tank. If that was the case the water I was putting in the motorhome was coming out there. I didn't have time to check to see if closing the valves will correct my problem. T, I do use a pressure regulator. Linda, I did try to use fresh water and pump but with valves open water just came out. When I catch up on grass and stuff after visiting my daughter I will close valves and see what happens. I certainly appreciate all of you taking time to help me. I will let all of you know how things work out. Oh Linda, I have replaced my lights wit LED's and installed the airlifter 5000 bags. You were absolutely right in saying they don't come anywhere near the gas tank. I'm learning more thanks to all of you. Ports

I posted on a different section but did not receive any hits so I decided to try this one. Upon de-winterizing my 1994 micro warrior, I noticed that water was coming down from above the gray tank. I panicked. and quickly shut off the water and went inside looking for a leak. I checked all the lines I could get at and saw no water on the floor. I had an RV guy do the winterizing and I de-winterized. It seems to me that there is a drain open somewhere and that is the cause of the water. There are two stopcocks under the oven and behind the hot water tank. I looked in the owner's manual and they talked about drains back there but ones that require you to pull up to open and push to close. I bought this home from an older couple who had it most of it's life. The man passed away and his wife didn't know a lot about the workings of the home. I'm thinking that he may have had the original drains replaced with stopcocks. When I hooked up to city water I had both stopcocks open thinking they were delivering water to the shower and back sink. I'm not sure if they both should be open/closed or one open and one closed. Also someone mentioned something about a stuck check valve on water pump. I haven't used the fresh water system at all. The pump is under the sofa and very difficult to get at. Does anyone know an easy way to remove sofa to get at pump if needed. Also there are two stopcocks in front of fresh water tank. I'm assuming they are drains. Should both be closed when fresh water system is not in use. Any help would be appreciated as I would like to find a solution if possible before I take it to an RV person. Hoping to get this fixed so I can get out and show off my classic motorhome. Thanks for your help. Ports

Ports here trying to get some help. Do to other obligations, I just took my 1994 Winnebago Micro Warrior for the first trip of the summer. When I hooked up my city water, I noticed that after a short period of time, I saw water coming out from under the motorhome. In a panic, I shut the water supply off and crawled under the home to see where the leak was coming from. What I noticed was water on the top of my gray tank dripping(running) down over the side of the tank. I went inside and tried to trace all the water lines I could visibly see to check for water or leaks and could not find any. Since I was on vacation and it was 95-98 degrees, I just disconnected the city line and kept filling up a bucket to use with toilet and rinsing dishes. When I got home, I hooked up again and this time saw water coming from fresh water drain which I must have left open and then also again from same spot above gray water tank. I read something about a blocked/stuck check valve on water pump but can't understand how water pump problem toward the front of camper will cause water to come out at the rear. I had my camper winterized by an RV person. I did not have any problem last year but the problem surfaced after the camper was de- winterized by me . I contacted the RV guy and am waiting to hear back. I would like to do as much of the work as possibly but also realize my limitations. The water pump on my micro warrior is under the sofa/fold down bed and almost impossible to get at. To get at it if necessary, would I have to remove the sofa and if so how do I do that. Also I should have mentioned that I have not used the fresh water system since I bought the motorhome and don't know how often the couple who I purchased it from used that system. Is there anything that I might have turned on that should be off. I have two stopcocks in front of lines coming out of fresh water tank that I believe are conected to two drain lines that come out the bottom of motorhome under fresh water tank. I have two more stopcocks located around the water heater tank that I believe allow the water to go to the shower,toilet, back sink, and outdoor shower. When I hooked up to city water, those two stopcocks were open and the two by the fresh water tank were closed. When I got the original owners book out to look, they had two drain plugs attached to the water pump. I believe that this was modified and hence the two stopcocks in front of the fresh water tank. The book also said something about two more drain plugs located in a cabinet under the oven and by the water heater tank, the only thing I can see is the two stopcocks that I believe allow water to appliances in back. The type of drain plugs they describe in manual are the type that you pull up to open and push down to close. Am I missing something in the back that I have left open where water could drain from? The water heater tank has a piece of card board around the tank holding the insulation. Could there be some type of drain valve back there that I am letting open that water can run out. The tank is located pretty close to the area above the gray tank. I hope I did not confuse all of you with my explanation. I'm puzzled(but happy) that water is coming out the underside but no visible sign of water inside the camper. I hope that someone might have some suggestions for me that would allow me to fix it myself rather than paying a fortune to have it repaired. I will do what I must so I can get out on the road again and show off my little classic. Thank you for all your help on this forum. It is greatly appreciated. Al n

Linda S. Thank you for your reply. I think I just figured out that the taillight unit screws onto the base. I originally thought that the base and light were one unit. I think I found a Bargman replace that should fit. Was thinking about led but it seems from comments on this forum you must modify somethings that I don't want to fool with so I,ll go with incandescent. The mirrors are the same size and it looks like the ones you gave me will work. Thanks for your help. I'm just learning.

I purchased a 1994 Winnebago Micro Warrior last April from an older couple in Florida. It's in great condition but I'd like to update some things and would like to know where I can get some of the things I want to update. I started to replace some of the side markers and those on the front and back. What I found when replacing was the original unit has the wires offset where the new unit has them out the middle. I did install a few that were bad but it involved having to cut the offset hole so the new unit would fit. I don't want to do this unless there isn't any choice. Does anyone know of a new unit where the wire coming out is offset. 9 Would like to replace with Led"s) Next I would like to replace the original taillight triple w/off white base. As you probably know, the off white base is thicker at the bottom and thinner at the top. I was looking at a Bargman # 47-84-005 but it appears the base is flat. I was wondering if that would work or if someone has a suggestion as to a suitable replacement. The originals work but I just wanted to update. Along the same line, I thought I read on this site that if you replace with LED's, you need to add something else. Something about the brightness when brake or turn signal is on. Something about a new flasher. If anyone knows if that is true what do I need and where can I get it? Each side has two smaller flat mirrors. I would like to replace them but keep the original framework the mirrors attach to. The company of the originals is Velvac but I can't find the original replacement there. Does anyone have any suggestions what I might replace the original with. For now, I'm looking for AC filters for the original Coleman air conditioner. The size listed for replacement is 6in x 14.75in x .5in. Can I get these or will I have to order another size available and cut to proper size. Thank you for your help and expertise on these great little motorhomes. Ports

I go by Ports. I have a 1994 Winnebago Micro Warrior that I purchased last April from an older couple in Florida. Me and my wife might be interested in the Rockland Rally. I will continue to check your post. Would be great to around other toy owners as I am trying to learn as much as I can so I can do as much as I can. Ports

Thanks to all who responded to my topic. I purchased my 94 Micro Warrior last April and I am trying to learn as much as possible so can do most of the work. No better place to learn than from experienced toyota motorhome owners who are willing to share their knowledge. I will keep in touch. Ports

Darrel! Thanks for the information. I bought a set of airlift 5000 and the mechanic told me one of the bags would hit and rub the gas tank. Does the tailpipe go from the muffler out the side. Thanks again. May be asking you more questions in the future. Ports

I am looking to replace the brake light, backup light, and turn signal light on my 1994 micro warrrior. Any idea where is the best place to find a replacement. Also looking for a tailpipe and where to find one. Looking to replace airbags. Any suggestions on what brand and where to find. Does anyone have info on where the best place would be to find parts for my Toyoto Micro Warrior just in case I need something. Thanks for your help.

I would like to thank all who shared their experience with air bags. Not exactly sure if I will stick with the T-9's because everything I read leads me to believe that firestone or air lift are the most used bags. Thanks again.

Would anyone help me answer the question which type of airbag system is best to use. I have T-9' on now and would probably be easier to use T-9 repair kit but don't want to waste money if some other system would be better. Thank's for your help.

I don't know what peeling back is.

I found that my newly purchased Warrior had T-9 air bags. Didn't know until I drove it home. Put air in each side and it kept air for about 3 days. I have two questions. I searched the archives and found some info. Can a small leak in T-9 be fixed with a patch or would it require a replacement kit? If I need to replace, should I go with the T-9 replacement or as I read in the forum the Air Lift Loadlifter 5000lbs or any other bags you may recommend. Is this a difficult fix. I am not a mechanical engineer but am somewhat handy. If I can do this I would certainly like to save the money, however I don't want to mess it up. ( If I can fix the t-9's already on my motorhome that would be great and save some money). As usual, thanks for everyone's expertise and help.

Are all you telling me this will hook up and work with the two wire ( R&W) hook up from the original thermostat heat only? Thanks

Trying to locate the original thermostat that was in my unit. Suburban but made by Robert Shaw model D87011. Found a pic of one listed on amazon but the pic didn't match the thermostat they sent. Does anyone have any ideas about a replacement thermostat that would do the job. Starting simple with furnace issue before I have it looked at.

Thank you to all who replied. It is appreciated. Trying to learn as much as possible from those who have much experience.

Thanks for the advice. Pardon my ignorance but what do you mean when you say you resealed? Were you talking about the caulk around the edges. Do you get cool seal from Sherman Williams?

Being new to all of this, I have a metal roof on my Warrior. It is in great shape. Do I have to coat the roof with anything? If so, what is best for a metal roof? Thanks for helping me through this process. Have an appt to have my new purchase serviced and checked out in early June to clear up my fridge issue and have everything else checked out. Hopefully it won't be long before we get on the road. I'm trying to learn as much as possible about my little gem so I can do more of the work myself.

I went to turn on the main propane valve and as I started, I could hear it leak. As I turned it on all the way the leak stopped. Anyone help me and give me some advice.

Greg! Thanks for the info. I needed to get a 11/8 tubular lock. The lock that wouldn't open was a 1 in lock. Had to use the original off set cam with the new lock to make it work. Thanks for taking the time to reply.