ports

Thanks Fred. Will Do. I also believe there is a ground going to the frame. Will clean everything.. Would send a picture if I knew how. Thanks again. Ports

Thanks guys! Will check the ground. The generator is a Kohler 2.5CMZ with TVM 140 motor. Where would the selenoid be located? Inside the battery compartment on the upper left side there is a plastic cover. Underneath are two wires from battery connected to a black rectangular piece. Not sure what this is for. On my battery hook up the positive terminal has the positive cable and another smaller whie wire. On the negative just the negative terminal. Could anyone give me some suggestions as to how to test to determine exactly where the problem exists. Thanks for taking time to try to help me. Ports

I own a 1995 Winnebago Warrior motor home. During the winter I kept the coach battery charged and would run the generator at least once a month and it started and ran great. The battery went. I replaced with a new one the other day and when trying to start the generator all I get is a click when press the starting toggle. I changed the 5amp fuse. Same result. Any help in what I should be checking would be greatly appreciated. I don't use the generator much but make sure oil is changed and run it periodically just to check.. Puzzled. Thanks for your continued help with any problems I have had. Al Portland

Sorry! I didn't realize that I sent the same message several times.

On my way down South 2 weeks ago, I noticed when turning on cab A/c that little green light did not come on as did not A/c. Didn't use motorhome last year but year before hand refrigerant change and all worked well. Anyway, when I got to my destination, I removed the glove compartment and checked the fuse. It was blown. Put new 10 amp fuse in and put everything back together and when I turned on air light came on and then right off again. Checked fuse I just put in and it was blown. Like to fix this myself if possible. Anyone have any ideas what and how to check to locate issue. Thanks Ports

On my way down South 2 weeks ago, I noticed when turning on cab A/c that little green light did not come on as did not A/c. Didn't use motorhome last year but year before hand refrigerant change and all worked well. Anyway, when I got to my destination, I removed the glove compartment and checked the fuse. It was blown. Put new 10 amp fuse in and put everything back together and when I turned on air light came on and then right off again. Checked fuse I just put in and it was blown. Like to fix this myself if possible. Anyone have any ideas what and how to check to locate issue. Thanks Ports

Linda. I got the window out yesterday and took it to a local shop that will put plexiglass in so I can use it. They can get me tempered glass but it will take a couple of weeks. I think I will use the plexiglass and then when the season is over have them order the tempered glass to be put in. I looked on the Winnebago site that I have saved with parts and the escape window measures 22x24. I do have one question. When I put the window back in is dicor butyl tape good to use as a sealant? I have some. The gentleman at the glass place told me to leave it out in the sun so it softens a bit before I apply. I cleaned the camper surface and got all old caulk off and scraped as much off the window frame as I could. The gentleman at the glass place said it was good. Thank you for your help. Ports

Linda! Thanks for getting back to me so quickly! You have been a big help to me and so many on this site and we thank you for that. The screws are on the inside and most are easily accessible. The couple toward the top I can not get out without removing the valences but I will figure that out. I am assuming that the window pushes out to remove. I should remove the entire frame and not pull the red tape to remove the window in an emergency. There is black molding around the outside of the window. It was tempered glass that looked like a spider web and when I bumped it several small pieces came out with most of the other pieces still together. I will have to remove them so I don't have glass all over the inside of the motorhome. The model is 1994 WT321RB. I just talked to a glass place close to where I live and he told me if I could get the frame out they would be able to do something even if it is plexiglass for a temporary fit so I can get out and use it. I would like to get it fixed correctly in the future so if you can check for me that would be greatly appreciated. I have something that I must do today so will not be able to get to the window until tomorrow. I will measure it for you. When I put the window back in what type of caulking must I use around the frame? Thanks for your help. Ports

Yesterday when cutting the grass, I noticed that the rear window on my 1994 Winnebago Micro Warrior was shattered. I am assuming it happened because of the heat. There is a magnifier on that window and I suppose that has something to do with it. Just had everything ready for the camping season. Contacted an RV glass company and they said they could get an entire replacement but it would take 8 to 10 weeks. Want to finally get out and use my baby since I didn't during the pandemic. I need help. What can be done temporarily that I could still use it? How do you go about removing the entire back window structure? There are Valances around the window that I need to remove. I also noted that this window is used as an emergency escape by pulling the red chord. Is there any way if the window is removed that I could get it fitted with something temporarily so I can enjoy my motorhome. I have turned to all the expertise on this site for help and desperately need some now. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Hope to get some suggestions so I can get busy and get this fixed. Everything else on the toy is great and raring to go. Thanks Ports

My LP service valve has a leak when opening and closing. No leak when all the way closed or open. System was checked and no leak when all the way open or closed. I think it is the packing nut. Tried to tighten nut but won't tighten any further. I am going to replace the service valve when I run out of propane. Since my unit is a 1994 Winnebago Micro Warrior, I figured I would also change the regulator while I am at it. The problem I am running into is that the original regulator has the vent on the bottom and comes off the left side of the service valve. Winnebago has discontinued this regulator and their is no replacement for it with vent facing down and coming off to the left of the service valve. Their are two stage regulators coming off the right side of the service valve but that won't work. I do not want to have to do to much modifying if I do not have to. The regulator that is on the tank works properly but if I am eventually replacing the lp service valve I might as well replace the regulator. Did anyone else ever replace the service valve and regulator on a horizontal tank with the regulator inlet coming off the left side (facing the lp tank). If so, I would be grateful knowing where I could find a regulator that would just fit without any modifications. If you did this but had to modify the system, I would be grateful to know how you did this. I certainly do not want to have to replace the entire tank as it is in very good shape. Thank you for your help. Ports

I believe I have all the original faucets in my 1994 Winnebago Micro Warrior. I have a small leak when I turn on the kitchen cold water. Can anyone help me with whether I need to replace a cartridge or just a washer and if so where I could obtain information as to which cartridge or washer I would have to order. Thank you for your help.

Going to have my toy tuned up. I would like to replace the distributor cap, rotor, and plug wires before I take it to the mechanic. Anyone have part #'s for the best replacements you would recommend for the job. I have a 1994 winnebago micro warrior with v6. I've read that plugs are difficult to install. Is that correct. What plugs would you recommend? Also I am going to have the cooling system flushed and filled. I have read so many different threads on which antifreeze to use and what not to use. Can anyone give their opinion for the best antifreeze to use? Would you have part #'s for a thermostat and hoses. As long as I flushing the system, I should put new hoses on as well. Thanks for your help.

Scott and Linda! Thank you so much for your advice. I have posted on here before and Linda has always been very helpful and knowledgeable. I think I will go with the KYB's.

I know there is some information on shocks in here but I would like to have a couple of questions answered and I apologize if this information was already given. I have a 1994 Winnebago Micro Warrior and am looking into new shocks. In reading some of your comments I find the two most recommended shocks are Blistein and KYB. Could anyone tell me the #'s for the Blistein and KYB shocks that would properly fit my Toy. Also, with the KYB's, I've seen two different shocks, gas-a-just and monomax. I contacted KYB and they responded that the gas-a-just were made for motorhomes and the monomax might fit some motorhomes but gave me no specific information about fit for my Toy. If I would go the route of the KYB's does anyone have information about which specific ones would be best. I know the Blistein's list specifically for my motorhome. I just have to decide if the extra price is worth it for me. Is this a job that can be done by someone with average skills. Thank you for your help and I hope this camping year will be better than last year. Stay safe.

Sandune 24! I have a similar problem but not in the front but along the bottom side of the over cab( not good with how to take pics and post) where it has pulled away in a section.I'm thinking I have an area where screws will not hold as well but trying to figure out how to access that area from inside to see what I need. I'd like to see if I can fix it myself without taking to someone who charges 90 dollars/hr labor. Sure could use some help. Stay safe all.

I am trying to find out how to assess some water damage I noticed. I'm not good with taking pics and posting so I will do my best explaining. If you can picture outside the cab where you enter the vehicle, ( where you have to duck or wack your head) that horizontal stretch of the overhead cab. I check the caulking there every year and re- caulk. I recently noticed that the bottom in a 1 foot section had lowered or pulled away from the right angle piece at the bottom. I could push that small section up. Along the rest of the overcab, it was solid. When going inside the motorhome and looking at that area from inside, I noticed that there was a soft spot on the floor or base( not on the side) which coincided with what I observed outside. I pushed along the side of the motorhome above the base and it was solid. I have not seen any type of water stain anywhere on the ceiling, front, or sides of the overcab. The passenger side of the overcab inside and outside is good. It appears to me to be a small section along the base of the plywood bed where damage has occurred. My main question is what do I have to do to be able to access the damaged area to fix it. There is a vinyl skin on the top of the bed. I know it is difficult for you to comment when I have no pics. I guess what I need to know is how to remove the vinyl where it is soft. I'm hoping that if I can access that I can replace a small section of plywood and re-caulk. Any suggestions would be very helpful. I have searched this site for help and have seen cab rebuilds but nothing on how to start. Everything was already ripped apart. When I Googled this, the same thing. All projects were already exposed and just showed everything being ripped up and replaced. When I bought my 1994 Winnebago Micro Warrior, it was well taken care of over the years by the owner so I do not believe that there is any type of extensive damage. I hope I did not confuse you with my description. Thanks for your help and expertise. Ports

Thanks for the part #'s and all the info. Going to replace my waste valves for the first time. Are there any tricks I should be aware of that will make the job easier? Also I just noticed that I didn't do the best caulk job on the driver's side bottom (flat) strip on the over cab. I know have a small portion along that strip that has pulled away from the angle trim. Probably some rot on cab bed. From the inside, I can see where a couple of screws that attach the right angle metal to the side and bottom of the bed have come loose. First, is there any easier way to assess the damage? It appears to be only a small section of the bed against the side that is soft. The majority of the that side is still solid. I could use some advice as to what I should do. Is there anything I can do for a temporary fix until I can investigate more closely. I hope my description didn't confuse you. I Thought I had this seam along the driver's side over cab sealed. I know know that I must do better. Thanks again for the help.

Once again, to all who replied, thank you for your time and input. Linda, do you have a part # for replacement bushings. Some said use HB 1102 for top and HB 1102 for eyes. Couldn't find HB 1102. Some said use poly bushings. Contacted a poly company and they told me they do not have a kit to fit the toy. Thanks for all the help. As all of you know, as our Toys become older they need a little more tender loving care. Stay safe all.

Fred, Derek, WME, thank you for your replies.. I don't want to raise my toy or modify the springs. I had it inspected and was told that the leaf spring bushings were starting to dry rot and he could not do the repair. He gave me a spring shop that does work for him. I took the toy to him. He looked and said the best thing to do was to get a shackle kit. The company he deals with didn't carry them and he mentioned he was not good on the computer but if I Googled them and was able to find some he would put them on. I found Dorman rear leaf spring shackle kit part # 722-043 for 1993 toyota truck but does not specify if it would work for 1 ton truck. Also around 80 dollars a piece. I also thought to just replace the bushings, much less expensive. I don't know if the spring guy was afraid that he could not get the old bushings out without breaking the shackles. Do any of you have any idea of a part # for the bushings kit I would need. Some say use rubber other say poly. I would appreciate part#'s and a good place to buy them. I will call the spring guy and see if he can replace just the bushings. Also I have two more questions. I noticed that I have a small leak which I am pretty sure is a worn air conditioner seal. The air conditioner I have is the original on the 1995 Winnebago Micro Warrior. My question would be since the old conditioner must be removed to replace the seal, should I think about getting a new air conditioner. I certainly don't want to spend extra money if I don't have to but also would hat to replace seal and then need a new conditioner in the near future. Does any of that make sense to you? Also new one would be more efficient. If i do replace conditioner, any suggestions as to Coleman or Dometic or something else and which specific models you might recomend. 13500 is plenty of BTU's for the toy. Secondly, In the future I will be replacing the shocks. I know that many say the way to go is Bilstein but for 80 dollars a piece are they that good. What other brands might I look into that would be a quality shock but at a lower price and still do the job I would like to thank all of you that share your expertise on these great Toyota Toys. It is greatly appreciated.

I was told my bushings on the rear springs are in need of replacement. Went to spring shop and they told me I should get shackle kits. Having hard time finding them. Found Dorman 722-043 kit which states for 2wd 1993 Toyota truck. I have a 1995 Winnebago Micro Warrior on a 1993 Toyota chassis. The part does not specify 1 ton dually but does not exclude. Can anyone help me find what I need to do the job. The spring guy said I would be ok driving the way it is without doing any harm but said if I could get and replace shackles it would be good, Thanks for your helping with your knowledge. Ports

Looking to replace the tailpipe on my 1994 Toyota Micro Warrior. All other parts of the exhaust system look OK. Trying to find a parts # for the tailpipe. Nothing is listed for my specific motorhome. The Toyota frame is a 1993 1 ton dually. The problem I am having is when I get online, look up the year, it lists truck and t-100. Can anyone help me as to whether the frame they used for Toyota motorhomes (1 ton ) is a t-100 and if it is can I just order the tailpipe for that. Is there a special tailpipe they modified specifically for the motorhome. Thanks for your help.

Glad to inform all that helped that my problem is now solved. I found out there are three low point drains. Two in the back in front of the water heater tank and one up front in front of the water pump. I had both stopcocks in the back facing the same direction. One should have been in the opposite direction. No leak. I feel pretty stupid. In going through all of this, I found out my fresh water level does not show up on my monitor. All other functions work. Not that important because I seldom use the fresh water and I can always check by looking. I only have 1 set of keys for my motorhome and was unable to get any that opened the camper itself made. I will contact Winnebago and see what they say. Anyone have any ideas. Thanks Ports.

Maineah! Yes. It is above a portion of the gray tank.