Gulfstream Greg

Here is a few more. obviously one is not a Toyota but classifies better as a toy!

Not sure where they reside, yanked them off of Pinterest https://www.pinterest.com/pin/257197828691298729/

World wide

I like this stuff for the roof "Dicor Lap Sealant". Wire brush the area to get as much crud cleaned off as possible. Use an air compressor or canned air to blow off the remaining dust. I make a small puddy knife carved from a stick and work the sealant into the area then apply more on top.

I like the weather vane type. Some of the others while driving can actually create a pressure in the tank and cause the tank vapors to back flow into the coach. The weather vane type are supposed to create a vacuum pulling the gasses out. Never use silicone. It eventually comes loose and then it is hard to get any other sealant to stick as the silicone leaves a residue. Use one of the sealants made for RV roofs. They stick really well and are easy to remove when repair is needed.

I ran both air bags and Gabriel air shocks on the rear of our Gulfstream. Someone had told me that air shocks were a bad choice as they could break off the shock mounts. That never happened. Maybe if I had just ran the shocks and no bags it would have been a problem. Anyhow I ended up with a very stable, absolutely no side to side rocking when going down the road or in corners. I installed the airbags myself. They were the type where the axle mount fastened under the axle U-Bolts. Had to cut the U-Bolts off with a sawzall. Once cut through they popped like a gun going off. The whole project is not easy and somewhat dangerous. Not suggested for those who do not have the proper equipment to support the truck. Note: The air bag kit I went with did not come with new U-Bolts.

It is always best that you make the initial connection the allow the starting battery to soak up some charge before attempting to start. A long 10 gauge wire really is not big enough to supply starting amps especially if you have to crank it for awhile. A 10ga wire will get hot even to the point of damaging it's sheathing maybe even melting and shorting to ground somewhere.

First I know not what a Winnebago roof or cowl is made of so the below is just some info maybe. Check the area where the actual flat roof material meets up with the front cowling. Will be just where the curve starts. You might not even be able to see the leak spot though. With a stiff bristle brush clean the areas, blow off dust with compressed air then apply some of this stuff or similar "DICOR EPDM RUBBER ROOF LAP SEALANT". I make a small putty knife out of a stick with a knife (Only needs to be about 1/2 inch wide) then as you apply the dicor work the sealant into the area. If you have a rubber roof check along the edges as some of the rubber roofs actually go over the edge and down the side a bit. That edge is probe to getting damaged from tree branches. You can use Dicor there also. Another possibility is microscopic corrosion holes in the aluminum cowl or roof (does Winnebago use alum in the roof and cowl?). They siphon water inside, drip drip drip (little drips). You might be able to see corrosion spots, paint raised from underneath. You have to try and kill the corrosion before you do anything. I have heard some say you need to repaint to seal the holes and others say a good heavy wax.

They have a welder for those, basically a pinpoint heat gun. You heat up both sides of the crack and melt into it the same type material. Some plastic shops might have some rods of the correct material. There are other methods also.

Ouch..... I certainly hope that is not my case. Fingers crossed XXXX

Originally I started this site to backup the yahoo group "Toyota Campers". At that time there were two yahoo groups. The owner of the now non-existent group got tired of fighting all the spam and deleted the group and all the files that had been uploaded. And if my memory serves me correctly Yahoo had a cap on the number of files that could be stored. So to add new old had to be deleted. There are still remnants of those backups in the gallery here. Another thing about Yahoo in those days is that it was just one long mess. When we bought our first Toy the Sunrader Turbo 4x4 I had no vision of what this would become. I honestly still have no vision other than it needs to exist for all of those who need and want to help regarding our Toys. The reality is our coaches other than being on the back of a Toyota are almost no different than any other RV on the road. Where help comes into play is all the flavors of Toyota chassis years, axles, finding the correct tire sizes etc. Yes we are letting our Gulfstream go, reluctantly I must add. I could have had it ready to sell months ago but for some reason I am procrastinating. My plans with the site? Keep it alive!

Consider having them fiber-glassed over. One advantage is no more leaks around those rubber seals. Then put in a roof vent over the cab bunk for light.

If you don't have them install rear air bags. I also installed Gabriel air shocks in the rear. You could also try to find larger anti sway bars for the front and rear. No more boating and snake roads are much more fun to drive.

Flush the system with a hose flush kit then re-flush with distilled water. When replacing coolant use distilled water and not tap water.

Buy a pressure washer, air compressor and a good shop vac for when you get home!

I wonder what Nolan is up to these days. That guy is an artist with his machines! Thanks for the flowers but you have to realize and acknowledge your knowledge. Your answers and advice to folks is always spot on! I miss the Sunrader. I had just put in a new exhaust with a huge downpipe from the turbo but never got to take it on a trip before selling it. It was really running nice.

We took a solo trip to Morro Bay, very little cargo. Got 13.5 mpg at the speed limits (maybe a bit faster at times). I have a Super Chips tuner and have tried all of the tunes. One is a mileage tune and it does get better mpg than stock and better performance. Presently I am running the performance tune and am going to fuel up today. Unfortunately it will be at least two weeks before I have to fuel up again. This truck is also my work vehicle and I have a really short commute, 15 miles round trip most of the time and all under 45 mph. Our trip to Oregon I checked on each fuel up and usually it was 10 mpg plus with a couple of 11 mpg pluses in there. California has a law that towing is restricted to 55 mph where as far as I can tell in Oregon you can tow at the speed limit so of course in Oregon much of the trip was at 65 to 70 mph. MPG stayed around 10 to 11. Thing is my miles traveled between fuel ups is long with varied terrain. I researched heavily and decided that this year range 7.3 was the one for me. Recently went through the entire fuel system all the way to the injectors. I dove head first into that when suddenly the engine would start to bog down under load. Turned out I had a combination of problems. The injector wireing harnesses were coming apart in the valve covers. Did the quarter in the clip fix and brought all the resistance levels way down. I started there because I did not realize at the time that it was a fuel problem. Turned out both tank pickups were clogged and my fuel pump on the frame rail died. I had already replaced all the O-Rings and filter in the fuel bowl because the drain valve blew and was pouring fuel out. I Just had the front end and drive line rebuilt, what a difference! The guy who did the front end knows the trucks history and the previous owner. Apparently the transmission I have has been bullet proofed. I had the drive-line rebuilt because the truck has developed a shutter when down shifting but only under heavy load on a incline. We were hoping it was related to a soft carrier bearing but it was not. It unfortunately looks like the downshift solenoid might be having problems. I am not really equipped to drop the pan and replace it. So back to the shop. I can pass through the shutter with a bit more peddle and many times it just snaps into the lower gear but there is a threshold sometimes where the engine rpm comes up as it starts to down shift and you get the shutter. Always when pulling a grade with the trailer. Only once have I been able to reproduce the shutter with out a load. I write about all this so that everyone understands that there is no old machines on the road with out problems. I just remembered that the Toyota threw a engine check light regarding the intake or something around 70k miles. I reset the light several times but it kept coming back on. A local mechanic said: you have to have the valves adjusted, I said what? Had the valves adjusted and have never had another check engine light. Ran so much better also.