jetalkington Posted April 6, 2018 Share Posted April 6, 2018 (edited) I am going to throw this out to the group. About 5 years ago I started working on a travel trailer that turned into a much bigger project than I had planned. it was one of those that you wonder what the h*** did I do this for. I knew it was bad but not so bad that by the time I got home the frame had cracked and the only thing holding it together was the floor of the camper and some cargo straps I out on it. It was a small 13 ft egg camper. Really cute. I thought it would be fun. I ended up renting a storage unit to work on it. I knew the people running the units so they let me have one for $25 a month. To get to the point I ended up taking the shell off and replacing the entire floor while the frame was at a weld shop being rebuilt. When I built the new floor it had to be in 4 pieces. I planned to rabbit edges and glue them together as I installed them. Putting screws in the rabbits until the glue dried. Then remove the screws and glass over the seams. The problem I had was the storage unit never went over 50 degrees and at night was colder than that and I was concerned the glue would not set proper. I envisioned the floor separating driving down the road. My favorite wood glue is Titebond III. I have used it for years and never had any trouble. I called Titebond to describe what I was doing and they said it may or may not work but they would not recommend it, unless I could get the temp up to 50 degrees for 24-48 hours. Maybe maybe not. I decided to call Liquid Nails. Again glue I have used and never had any trouble. So you can imagine my surprise when the lab tech told me they do not recommend using any of their product in motorhomes or travel trailer. I have admit I was pretty shocked. I bring this up because many people on this forum rebuild many of the motorhome and glue is a primary tool. I did some research and decided to call loctite. Again, I have used their product with out problems. They passed me to their lab. I told the tech what I was doing and she said they had just came out with a product called power grab 8X and it would work with no problem as long as I could get my storage unit above 40 degrees for a couple hours. It would take longer, and I would have to leave it clamped longer, to be sure, but it would work. She also said that it would be impacted by temps below freezing once the curing started. It would just take longer. Really great people and spent some time on the phone with me to be sure what I was doing would work. It did and trailer was fine.Turned out really pretty. So, more to the point I only use loctite products and still titebond III, properly clamped. I never use liquid nails in my trailers and will not when I get to working on the inside of my Sunrader. Sorry for the long backstory. Edited April 6, 2018 by jetalkington Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSBreeze Posted April 6, 2018 Share Posted April 6, 2018 I have been using Gorilla construction adhesive in the caulking tube above 40F and is working great. Says to clamp or hold in place for 20 to 60 sec. Holds to fiberglass great, as well as many other surfaces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jetalkington Posted April 6, 2018 Author Share Posted April 6, 2018 I have several friends that swear by Gorilla glue. I just have not gotten around to trying it. It gets really great reviews. I may see how it is on my Sunrader. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted April 6, 2018 Share Posted April 6, 2018 I find Gorilla glue too brittle. I like E6000. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSBreeze Posted April 7, 2018 Share Posted April 7, 2018 The Gorilla is the construction adhesive, not the glue. That would not take the vibrations, I agree. The adhesive stays quite rubbery feeling and sets up quick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted April 7, 2018 Share Posted April 7, 2018 I just assumed it would be the same as the regular Gorilla glue. I have some projects to do if it ever stops raining. I will give it a try Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jetalkington Posted April 7, 2018 Author Share Posted April 7, 2018 Don't forget to read the container on Gorilla Glue. It is a water activated glue and on some materials it requires you to dampen the material before applying the glue. I am guessing that is not the case for their construction glue but I have not used it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harborbarbie Posted April 20, 2018 Share Posted April 20, 2018 Just bought a new to me Toyota Itasca 91. I am in the process of re doing the cab over bunk from water damage. When I get to gluing down the wood and foam to the fiberglass skin, I'll have to check out the loctite powergrab 8x! Sounds like good stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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