WME

There is a wheel shop called Custom and Commerical. They make a 5/6 bolt adapter. $$$$. Then you still need 6 bolt rims. https://www.customandcommercialwheel.com This will solve your rim problem, but not your brake problem. If you have gone this far maybe you should look at replacing the front (and rear) bushings. By now the OEM ones are most likely shot

Sigh you have warned...Beyond here there be monsters ...http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/5327-adding-1-ton-hubs-and-ff-axle-to-1978-chinook/&tab=comments#comment-35825 There is another Iong post somewhere about his problems in his attempt to upgrade the brakes. It did not end well. Zero is no longer on this site. Maybe a better approach would be new everything and modern HD brakepads

Does your Toyota have front coil springs or a torsion bar set up? The trucks with torsion bars are fairly easy to swap the larger brakes for an up date. Converting the disc brakes on a front end with coil springs with bigger discs from a torsion set up is very difficult to impossible.

Sounds like you have done this sort of thing before but for a newbie contemplating something like this remember this. Running a single tire on a full floater The rim offset must be correct for the load to be centered between the bearings on each side. The same thing for the front wheels, center the load. The fronts may require an adapter for a single spare to fit everywhere. The Toyota factory 1 ton setup was dually on the rear axle to center the load and an adapter about 5" wide to center the load with a dually rim, on the front end, in a single rim function. The GM rear axle sounds good, can you run 8 bolt rims in the back with a 6 to 8 bolt adapter in the front?? Using stock parts is way cheaper than custom stuff. Disc brakes are way over rated for low-speed use on the rear axle

One of these were my trail runners for many years in many countries...Muddy rice paddies and those skinny FOD tire were not a good combo. The last year I was in the "business" we got Hummers. They had on the roll deflate/inflate functions and were totally a whole new game, but too wide for rice paddy dikes.

Ya even 4x4 Sunraders aren't Rubicon Runners. In all honesty, if you can solve the gearing and ground clearance problems a 2wd rv can get you a long way off the road. Have you found the "Put the sawzall down" thread?

This is a long read and it's not about swapping the house but updating the house for your style of camping. http://www.boundfornowhere.com/blog2/build-out-week-1-2

Many of us have used products of this sort on our rv roof. But evidently not this brand, so no comments about something we haven't used.

If you install floor mount seatbelts, you should use a large fender washer top and bottom to reinforce the anchor bolt. A 2x4 piece of 3/16 strap iron will be even better if the bolt goes through only a wood floor.

Flip up the nearby cushions, open cabinet doors and see where it goes. Maybe an exterior shower fitting

Floors=staples, walls =glue, ledges=??

Removing carpet tools... dyke wire cutter, plain pliers, straight slot screwdriver. Be advised that rv carpets are held in place by about a zillion staples. Most removed carpet gets replaced by vinyl flooring, easy to keep clean. Raising the roof is harder. The basic plan is jack up the roof to original height and let things dry out. Use a space heater or dehumidifier. Look at your countertops and see if there is one you can put a bannister post from the countertop to the roof as a support. Some folks have made bent laminated bows and through bolted them to the roof while it was jacked up. I'm sure others will have ideas

No problem, not a dualie.

The title says it all...https://www.barrett-jackson.com/Events/Event/Details/1937-FORD-HOUSECAR-CAMPER-224762

Napa is a good place to start. Try to remove the exhisting hose in 1 piece or at least so you can put it back together. That will give you a shape to copy. NAPA has 45 deg, 90 deg and straight. Fuel tank filler hose is the name It is EXPENSIVE. $25 a ft. DO NOT USE RADIATOR HOSE

Did you add the extra spring?

Parallel thought... If you have a long distance between the panels and your battery, place the controller as close to the battery as possible. A .1v drop on the 18v coming from the panel is no big deal. A .1 drop between the controller and battery is a big deal and has a big impact on the battery being fully charged.

RV solar 101😁 https://amsolar.com/rv-solar/support/ Remember grasshopper its all about balance

LOST POSTS 1. Make sure your roof is big enough to support your panel wattage. 2. Balance is the thing 3. Big battery, smaller panel makes your system an extenda-stay 4. Big battery, big solar..perpetual motion 5. Controller is important, max panel charge amps should be less 20% of battery capacity.

If its raining its warm...

Kinda, sorta wag for solar systems sizing. 1 watt of solar for 1 amp hour of battery. Sooo how big is your proposed battery bank??

Who made 4x4 V-6 Toyota RV is less important than HOW MANY they made. The total of 4x4 (4&6 cylinders) is less than 200.

SYou need to weigh it, then you WILL KNOW if you can do a single rear wheel or must up grade to a 1 ton.

Go to the first post in this thread, check the springs listed. With HD springs you can always remove a leaf if its to stiff. These are new springs so they will have a long life span. The only proper way to rearch springs is to do it then heat treat them to restore them to new

Recommended reading. 1. http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/9620-86-conquest-complete-rebuild/ 2. http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/10983-the-1990-toyota-odyssey-v6-4x4-that-we-call-the-comvee-warning-long-post-with-photos/ 3. http://thesupercamper.blogspot.com/