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About tstockma

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    Rocky Mountains, fishing, old-time music (geetar, autoharp, washtub bass).

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    '86 New Horizon 22RE
  • Location
    Strasburg, Colorado

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  1. I'm reading that initial description more carefuly....electrical probably unconnected....last two posts have convinced me the water on floor is wuite possibly just rainwater...overheating & no heat from heater, can happen from low coolant. If you fill with coolant & are sure the engine's cooling system is fully charged with coolant (no air pockets, etc), then turn heater to cold, drive an hour or two & see if you lose significant coolant. RV Trader's suggestion about bypassing the heater core is also a very good one, having the heater turned to cold will minimize pressure in the heater core, and yes heater cores do blow steam when they have issues, and leak significant amounts of coolant. So you might be lucky & just have a heater or some other leaks going on, & when the coolant level is so low it won't put heat out the heater, then it also will overheat because the pump isn't pumping coolant to other spots. OK you have some more investigating!
  2. lol, love the approach. Maybe buy smaller tires, set up a low rider suspension? Hey jack up the barn - or lower the ground/concrete at the entrance. I also am moving to a house with a barn, we'll likely attach a lean-to or carport next to barn for our rig.
  3. Moth balls are very unpleasant for meeces & rats, if you can get to the hidden places, put 2-3 in various spots - the smell & chemical makes it unpleasant enough & you remove them from your living areas when you're using the rig. Mice can go past moth balls, so you need to salt them throughout - the chemical is strong enough you don't need to saturate every area, just enough smell that they can't easily find "enclaves" free of smell where they can lurk & nest. Renew every year or so. Freestone - mice smell where they've gone before - so unless you find & block every spot, they'll follow that trail. Moth balls, even further up the trail, will interfere big time with their little noses as well as make things unpleasant, so you don't need to ID each entrance. Kamaloha - set a few mothballs in a couple spots under the hood in the fall, including on top of that engine block. Mice are often able to detect open space behind your foam job & can chew thru foam - copper scrub pads instead of steel wool stuffed into openings keeps them from chewing thru & doesn't rust. As far as I know scrub pads don't have the flammability problems of steel wool - and you can foam or use sealant over the pads, they stop chewing when they hit the copper. Homer - great job & great photos! Thanks, I'll learn from that too. Totem, your problem in particular sounds like a real nightmare! Yuck. Sheesh - good luck on this one.
  4. Sheesh exploring different options on Amazon is brutal, I'm not finding exactly the feature combination I want, but finally settled on "Yulu" brand 12" modern modern model. Because I have seen Yulu as a player a year or two back, well reviewed, and they have most of what I want - the main lack is, no Sony 335 on the rear camera (hardly any have that) but other solid night vision features are applied to that rear one. I noticed on 12/29 thru 12/31 that Amazon's offering decent "coupons" for a New Year's Eve discount, so went ahead & pulled the trigger on that Yulu. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0829214JH/ It'll be a few weeks or longer before I install, so no updates for a while.
  5. A compression check - and it's fairly easy if you're mechanically inclined - won't always reveal a blown head gasket, so if the check comes out OK or inconclusive, you still haven't fully ruled it out. However if the compression is clearly bad, it's a very strong indicator of head gasket, combined with your symptoms. I replaced a head gasket in one car only to find no improvement due to cracks in the head which I didn't realize were there until the new head gasket made no difference. ...that said, blown head gasket is highly, highly likely given this particular motor & your symptoms. Your oil color won't necessarily change early in the game on a blown head gasket & sometimes the gasket leak won't transfer water into the oil at all (and I haven't heard of that trick of dripping oil on the exhaust manifold - good one!). If compression is OK, the right mechanic & shop will do an overnight leak-down test which does confirm head gasket (or in some cases worse, like the problem I had which I mentioned above, cracks in the head between the compression chamber & the water jacket). Sorry to be a Negative Nancy here, but you're probably needing a mechanic at this point. Partly because the penalty for trying to drag it out by adding coolant back in & driving it much is kinda high - you damage other things in the system, which was my problem years ago, I probably started with a head gasket issue & drove it, causing those cracks I mentioned. And partly because you really do need experienced eyes on it. If you get enough coolant back in to drive direct to the shop within a few miles, you can avoid the towing cost. But you are in danger of warping the entire head, so it needs to be close by. Just make sure the shop is one which 1) can do the work, and 2) has given a decent ballpark estimate on a "happy-path" head gasket repair (ie, no other problems found & things go well). Now being a shade tree mechanic myself, if/when my 22RE does the same thing, I'm likely to just replace mine in the driveway like Fred did - because it's cheap & not too hard to do it myself. And if it doesn't solve the problem, then it'll be time for the more serious & costly diagnosis & fix (or maybe I'd just pick up a used head & have it R&R'd at a machine shop, & slap it on, aka a full "head job"). Luck... PS - I don't recall electrical problems also being part of the picture on a leaking head gasket, so you might have another "moving part" to deal with. PPS - given your symptoms, your chances of head gasket issues being the cause are very high.
  6. Especially for $80, I think you found a gem. It appears to have a good non-Sony night vision CMOS camera setup, and a very good full-screen touch screen setup. The 1080p resolution is perfectly adequate IMO. A terrific example of a great "previous generation" setup. Nice!
  7. Dec 30 2019, this is a work in progress. I'm find this research painful & can't find "go-to" brands. Amazon has a flood of on-brand, off-brand & even generic rear-view mirror style dash cams, many do have the very latest features & appear quite good. Ideally, you're getting an onboard (built-in) front camera shooting thru the windshield, a separate wired (or sometimes wireless) rear camera. Depending on how to you place that rear camera, it can serve as both rear view mirror & a good backup camera. In my case, I plan to optimize cam placement for best rear view mirror viewpoint & also add a separate device with radar type sensors & slow/fast beeping sound to tell me distance to nearest obstacle (within 2 meters). Some of the slickest Amazon pages are for the older technology cams, so you have to watch carefully. I'm having to learn much more than I wanted & do my homework. Price Ranges - $100 or less at best might have 1080p resolution, often displays camera's view within a square image area within the screen - $100-$150 can get you entry into today's newer generation resolutions, with IPS Touch Screen & several of the modern useful features - $150-$200 & up is where things get interesting, should be IPS Touch Screen, resolutions at "2K" or better, ideally with Sony night vision, separate hi-res files of front & back camera, much more Brands & Latest Tech - If there are "go-to" brands, I can't tell what they are. The exact same camera maker's products might be sold by many different brand labels. - Therefore I'm looking at specific Amazon listings, comments & reviews, comments on features, also comments on seller support. I can't recommend any brand or seller over another. - I see "Hisilicon Hi3556ZV200 Chipset" on what I believe are latest listings (late Dec 2020). - "Streaming WIFI Video" is a great gee-whiz feature, letting you watch (& pull recordings, I believe) on your phone or tablet via the cam's onboard WIFI. Screens - IPS Touch Screen (very good, looks like) - Normally fills the entire screen, looking like a rear view mirror - Switch between rear view & front view at will - IPS sometimes gives full touch screen functions (zoom & pan left/right/up/down, etc), depending on the brand & model - Often can split screen, showing front & rear - Non-IPS screens - as far as I can tell, anything non-IPS is probably older & more limited - FPS matters (frames per second) - 30 FPS looks fairly standard - 60 FPS is offered on some & is likely very very good - Less than 30 is likely getting quite choppy Screen Size (applies to clamp-on rear view mirror screens) - IMO, 10" is likely a better fit than 12", in our older Toyota trucks & with sun visor spacing, but I haven't tried any of these yet - 12" & perhaps are all IPS (full touch screen) - 10" & looks like best are IPS, some are not - 7" (older, often smaller rectangle viewing area within frame) - 5" (older yet, smaller rectangle viewing area) - Non rear view mirror screens are nice, but ensure you do not obscure your view thru the windshield - Trucker's allow more cameras to be attached, especially useful for security when parked Resolution - Display resolutions are important, be sure to verify recording resolution - 2560 x 1440p (front x rear) - 2150 x ? - 1920 x 1080p (front x rear) - Other resolutions exist - 1080p is last generation's standard good quality - 760p is pretty cheesy these days & you won't pick out license plate numbers very well Night Vision Technology - Sony Starvis aka IMX335 aka Sony's Starlight CMOS, is perhaps newest. is very highly regarded - WDR is very highly regarded for night & lighting issues, it looks like some systems might have both Sony Starvis & WDR - Infrared emitters onboard the camera help nighttime security recording a lot, might significantly help your backup camera - I can't tell whether front camera infrared has use other than security when parked - Older systems rely only on brightness & contrast tweaking, market this as "Night Vision" but it's distinctly limited compared to Starvis - You might find older cams without night vision at all Backup Onscreen Guidelines - Better models will detect reverse gear (you attach a wire to your backup light wire) & show guidelines on-screen, many models let you turn that on/off with touch screen swipes - Best quality lets you customize where the guidelines appear for accuracy, given your specific vehicle size & your camera placement Other Features - GPS ideally records your exact position, speed & direction, which seems mostly useful for accidents you might be in - "G-Sensor" detects impacts, even small ones, and locks those specific files for accident recording, ideally including when parked - useful for proving fault to police & courts - Security/accident monitoring/recording while parked records front & back views, mostly for ID'ing hit-and-run events including parking lot dings - Storage: cams get fussy about brand name & type of memory cards, you need to match your card to the device; cams record over their oldest files when the card is full & so bigger capacity cards give you longer history of recordings - Heat Resistance, these can overheat & malfunction, a more resistance model supposedly is better ventilated & temperature hardened - Looping Time Span - this impacts any accident/security recordings & also how easily you can drill into & find specific events - Recording front vs rear - best is with front & rear separately recorded, or (inferior) "frame within a frame" of single recording files Your comments appreciated... I will update this as I learn more, and I would love to learn from you all. What do you know? I'm a newbie at this.
  8. I am looking to add a high-quality camera system, especially wanting great rear-view mirror mount functionality (possibly dash-top instead) including night vision, infrared, & backup guidelines. The range of choices is overwhelming, especially with off-brands dominating review sites & even Amazon search - and on closer look, many of the 5-star products are severely lacking in features, often on no-name or obscure brands. Even Amazon presents fabulously-reviewed products that on intense scrutiny, are quite lacking. So I'm looking for recommendations - especially with ID'ing several good or top notch brands that I can rely on. (I titled this post "Jan 2020" to help future researchers...and I think we've just seen "generational changes" with these systems, in the last year or so.) That sums it up! I'm amazed at how difficult this turned out to be. It's not too difficult to ID some great hardware/software features, but reviewing the hundreds of Amazon search results & entries for the specific features is so far a wretched task. If I could narrow down to 4-5 reliable brands, that'd be a great start. Features: - Rear mirror mount (although a 6" screen size or similar, mounted on top of the dash of the '86 cab, probably is fine too) - Hi res system including monitor, recording, big storage capacity - CMOS or HDR seem to be best video level at present? - Touch screen, for changing which camera is on-screen? And zooming or panning? Multi-cam display ability? - Anti-glare lenses, software/hardware that deals well with different light levels, infrared also good, esp on back-up cam - Programmable guidelines on-screen for back-up use - "G-Sensor" or "Accellerometer" for accident detection & auto-lock for saving those files - "Heat resistant" - I think this especially means on the central module, I guess higher temps can cause issues for some - Typical decent resolution & light-condition adaptive forward-facing camera also desirable for event & accident recording...not to mention pulling scenic stills & video is nice too I appreciate any of you with somewhat recent experience here..and to repeat myself, just narrowing down to several brands which I can rely on would be a very significant step forward. Thanks all!
  9. I don't know RV systems, but troubleshooting skills from my well system suggest a couple ideas. - That bypass pipe idea above sounds very promising. Yes, most likely a fairly direct line from your hot water tank/heater's inlet to outlet. - Somehow your hot water tank is pressurized & getting into the cold water supply - so the hot water tank's pressure forces water back thru its feed line & into the cold water lines. Possibly there's a failed backflow preventer valve which is supposed to prevent that from happening, thus allowing your water heater from acting as an additional pressure tank, resulting in a mix of hot water & cold water in cold water lines. (Or, that open hot water bypass listed above.) - Or, there's an additional shut-off valve in your system which you need to flip. If you check out your system & find a valve which you don't know the purpose of, try turning it on/off & see what happens. After testing, set these back to "original" unless you understand what it's doing & why it's the way it is. - One cautionary note - don't leave your hot water tank heater on if you're shutting off its water feed or draining the tank. Luck!
  10. This is an amazing build you're doing & I'm gaining a lot of insight into what's "under the hood" on my '86. Thanks!
  11. Another approach which can work well, at least it did on old Corvairs & Chevys... Drain, replace the bottom drain plug with same-size thread device outfitted with a zerk grease fitting. Pump it up with plain old grease. This can work surprisingly well. And if yours is bad enough you'll have to replace or rebuild anyway, it's low risk - nuthin to lose, as long as you know how to find a rebuilt one if the idea doesn't work... I did this to an old '61 Corvair station wagon & it lasted as long as the car did, which was another 70k miles.
  12. "Problem solved" turned out a little premature... Denver Oil dropped by in our absence on Weds to pump out any & all fluids for $250, and take away the drums for $50 each...however after pumping fluid, then declined to pull the drums out because there were too old & in danger of coming apart. The guy did tell us over the phone he thought we wouldn't have a hard time, but his lift method was not gentle enough. So, my method to remove ancient used oil barrels: 1) Have commercial company pump out fluids 2) Use Harbor Freight ratcheting tie-down strap around each barrel, under the first molded-in ridge 1/3 the way down from the top, first attaching 3 ropes coming up from that tie-down... 3) Lift & pray (actually the strapping worked great, they came right out) 4) Now need to see if Denver Oil will come back to take away the drums, if not we'll have to deliver to some disposal service So while we're not quite done, at least the fluids are pumped out & the barrels out of the pit. At least it's mostly rainwater left in the bottom Article keywords: old ancient 55 gal gallon waste oil drum disposal removal from oil grease pit...
  13. Well d*mn on those manuals being gone - I wouldn't think Toyota would care about pubs that old. Might have to see a dealer, although I'm finding my dealer in Denver doesn't do well on '80s vintage RV platforms anymore... Hey these switches might be pretty universal anyway. Maybe pull the switch & walk into a Napa.
  14. "Snake oil" is a funny term - the poster child of phony product advertising. Supposedly to help skin, memory & thinking, a true panacea - good for what ails ya. Actual snake oil is loaded with omega-3. Which these days is pretty highly regarded, last I checked. Now 'tis true that most snake oil sold in the old days was mineral oil, not a speck of snake in it...
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