jetalkington

Ok, I got curious. I watched the video, which was interesting. Now I know how this this works. So, I went to my tank and took out the gauge. It is like the one in the video. So, it works on the magnetism. Good to know that I can just pop it out and replace it. I am repainting my tank. It was a mess. So, now I can take the gauge out and clean it and reinstall it.

Thanks for this. This helps me a lot in going forward on my tank monitoring.

I have the horizontal mounted also. Mine has a terminal on the gauge. See the picture I posted. There was a wire that ran from that terminal to my stove hood that indicated LPG level. It seemed accurate. I plan to reconnect it when I get my rebuild done. Look on yours to see if you have the terminal. My plan is to use see level sensors and they tell me they are compatible with this tank and sensor. Others probably have a better working knowledge of these, as this is my first mounted tank.

You don't say what king of tank you have. Is it horizontal mounted or is a portable? Mine is mounted and has a sensor built into the tank that goes to a monitor inside my Sunrader. If that's the case you may have the same thing and a broken wire.

Ric; I had to get some help with my windows. We taped them in place and saw that the opening was to big on one side and to small on another. It looked like someone had them out and could not get them back in so they trimmed and adjusted the opening to make it easier. On one side the seal gripped the fiberglass by less than a couple mm and on the other it bowed the seal out and would not let it seat. It was a mess. I think we might of even had them out a third time, not two. I bought the tool for the bead and it helped a lot. We ended up trimming one side a little bigger and then building out one side with a polyester epoxy like body filler duraglass. It is like a putty and we built out one side. It was off a lot. Then we sealed the end of the seals, where they meet, with a black sealant called life seal from boat life. The guy that helped me repairs boats and this is what he uses on his boat repairs. I normally would have used black sikaflex but he likes this more. We had a little bit of the green fiberglass showing and we covered it with smoothed out black life seal. It looks good and you really can't tell it from the window seal. It has been over a year and no leaks but I think time will tell once I get it back on the road and the vibration. -Jim

You guys must not be married. I am normally working 12 hour days this time of year. Since I am not, my wife has an ancient honey dew list that I am working on. I just finished tearing out a deck and filling the hole with 22,000 lbs of gravel. I am grateful she is still working part time or I would never get time to work on my Sunrader. Ric yours is looking good. I like the wood wrap on the rear ceiling curve. Is that luan mahogany or a thin plywood? I have been thinking of using pole wrap but I like that better. Did you have fun putting in the front windows. I had to do mine twice to get them to stop leaking.

I went over to my Sunrader, at the shop. I climbed on and shook my ladder. I am an average size guy. I can say that ladder is going no where. I did use the collapsible rivets. I am good and plan to leave my rivets in. I am moving on to getting my ceiling and side wall supports in. I want to get it insulated soon.

I ended up buying these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X8Z4K4Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The bottom ones have to be a lot longer than the top ones. Now I am getting paranoid. It is just the biggest screw I could get in there was a #10 with out drilling out the ladder. That didn't seem all that strong either. 1/4-20 would require drilling the ladder bracket and thinning out the material along the edge. The washer on the inside is a requirement, in my opinion. It does add a lot of strength. My rivets are tight in the hole and formed the inside "star" nicely. I use rivets at work a fair amount and we don't have a lot of trouble with them if they are installed right. However, I have all the tools. If I didn't I would likely have gone with the biggest screw and washer combination I could get in there. With a screw I would look at using a fender washer on the inside. Now that I am paranoid I may redo them with a fender washer instead of the little ones.

Do you really think those rivets won't hold? There are 16 of them. Fiberglass is tough. I think the key is to be sure they are long enough and the hole is the right size.

Candasunrader: did you get LED? If so they are directional on the wiring. Meaning the current will only flow one way in them. Test them on your battery to see which one is ground and and which is the lead wire. Might save you some frustration.

Her stuff is always fresh. The vinyl is very pliable and you can tell it is not old and been sitting for ages in a warehouse. I would recommend her anytime.

I bought a 50' roll off ebay. I just dug up the receipt. I got it from furniture lady. She is also the one I ordered the samples from. https://www.ebay.com/itm/BLACK-RV-Trailer-1-2-Vinyl-Insert-Window-Trim-Mold-Flexible-Screw-Cover-50-Ft/331997326510?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Here are the pictures I said I would get. Sorry for the soft focus I only had a few seconds to do take them. I forgot my wife was waiting for me for lunch. I like the look better than the original. Here is a link for samples. https://www.ebay.com/itm/SAMPLES-White-Black-RV-Trailer-1-2-5-8-3-4-Vinyl-Insert-Flexible-Screw-Cover/332224101070?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 I needed to be sure how wide I needed to fit my molding. One of the big problems I had were many of the screws were off center. I found heating it with a heat gun helped a great deal. When I get it all in I plan to use some black Sikaflex sealer to seal the ends. I have the sealer but once it si opened I never seem to get it to last to the next time I need it. So I plan all my needs then go for it. The original cover was folded under the molding and the molding screwed down to hold it in place.

I actually went with the second profile in Derek's list. The first picture he has is of what I call the original because it was there when I bought my Sunrader. However, someone on this forum, I think Linda, gave a source for the screw cover insert and that site had a sample package of several profiles and sizes. I bought the sample package and tried several. The package also had a few colors. I put them in in different spots on my trim rail and drove them around for a couple months, to be sure they would stay in. So, the one I chose actually "clips" into the rail groove. It does not sit in the bottom of the trim rail as the first picture does above. I think it gives a smoother look and doesn't allow dirt and crud to build up in the trim rail between the insert and the trim rail. I will get a picture today. I cut it long to allow it to shrink back into place. I figured I stretched it putting it in. I like the look better.

I am close to finishing the back end of mine. I finally got the old battery hole filled. I am not a body man and I think I sanded and painted it three times before I got it how I wanted it. I got my ladder back on and the bumper cover. My hands were tied in knots after installing the screw cover. I ended up using a heat gun to soften it. That made it easier but still a pain. My box goes back on tomorrow. Feels good to get going on the inside.

You have the right place. His father used to own the body shop and both his sons went into the business with him. The sons came down with health issues from all the sanding dust and painting so when the dad died they closed the shop. T12 marketing is the son that did all the fiberglass work and decals. He opened a co-op in our downtown area to support local artists. He is a "Vinyl Artist" He makes and sells artwork out of vinyl. I have seen his work and it is good. Just not my thing. The other brother kept the building and is doing AAA calls out of it. He says he does really well with out all the dust. I rent space in the old body shop. It is how I met them. You will not be disappointed in his work. It is high quality vinyl and spot on for colors I chose.

https://www.lceperformance.com/H4-Headlight-Conversion-Kit-1982-1995-Pickup-198-p/3061016.htm This is an option I am looking at, when I get to that point.

Got around to glassing in my old battery hole. Came out good Now just need to paint it. I have tried all the recommended colors but none seem to match. I have tried the Ford Wimbledon and Canvas white. They are both just a shade too creamy. I am going to check out the color of the cab and see if that is a better match. Side by side they look pretty close. Once it is painted I will re-install my ladder and rear box. I also managed to replace all my clearance lights, new LED tail lights and added a set of high brake lights. I still have to mount my rear backup camera and that is it for the outside. Then on to the inside.

That is exactly what I did. I used 1/4 plywood with a 5 mill drop cloth and taped to the board. I am hoping to get to the outside next week. I am running low on epoxy resin and was afraid to start the outside and run out. The new gallon will be here Sunday. However, I am in Illinois and they just issued a stay at home order. I am going to still drive to the garage I have my Sunrader but I am not sure how all that will go.

I am using 1x2 poplar for my window frames. I wanted the stiffness and resistance to moisture Poplar is better than pine for water. Plus it is stiffer than plywood and draws the widow in nice and snug. I can build them at home and take them to the motorhome. The battery hole is going ok. I think I made a mistake in I put my backer board on the outside thinking I would work from both sides. In hind site that was not a good idea. This is my first attempt at filling a hole this big. I have done barrier coating before but not large hole filling. I would start with the backer on the inside and cut the fiberglass the fit the hole and build from there. I was thinking i would do a practice layup on the inside, where it wouldn't show. Anyway, the back of the camper is not flat and as a result I had a small space between the backer and the camper shell. This caused the fiberglass to bow out a bit until it laid against the backer. Meaning I have to do more sanding to get it flat enough to put the fiberglass sheets on the outside and not have a slight raise on the back. Not a real big deal but more work that could have been prevented. Are you planning to close your battery hole or reuse it? I used 1.5 oz chopped strand matting as the inner 2 layers and then I put 1708 biaxial on final layer inside. I bought them both off Amazon as they were least expensive. it is strong and looks fine on the inside. I will use the same method on the outside layers. My goal is to make it so I can build a vanity and use the space taken up by the old battery box. Plus to reduce cold air coming in.

It looks really solid. I am really interested in watching your build out. I am closing in the rear battery hole in mine today. Then I start the interior. It will interesting to compare notes on the build outs. Mine is a rear bath so I do not have the third beam. I am working on sealing off my old battery compartment now. Here is what mine looked like before I started to fiberglass the battery hole.

I talked with the guy doing the decals and stripes for our motorhomes. He said he can anything anyone can send a good picture of. He also gave me permission to list his cell phone number. So now anyone has to do is read this thread and they will have a source for all the decals on our motorhomes and trailers. T12 Marketing Rockford, Illinois 815-985-8604 You can look them up on the web or Facebook.

On my last trailer I used Duraglas to fill in holes and make the window holes a little better fit. Water proof and easy to work with. I am filling the battery hole in the rear of my Sunrader this week and am thinking of top coating it with duraglas as a final sanding coat before paint.

He has the pattern in his computer for my 21' . From what I see it is easy to adapt them to an 18 but, I do not first hand experience with that. I will pm you his information and you can work out the cost with him. I will also check with him if it ok to post his contact information here. I only have his cell phone number and I am always overly cautious posting cell phone numbers.

Here are the pictures of mine. I am sorry I can't get them any better. It is 4' from a wall on one side and 6' from a tow truck on the other. Plus the only space they had is on the electric hoist. So, I have the pillars to contend with. One picture is of just a test print of the Sunrader Classic Logo on white. He printed it just to make sure he had color, size, and design matched. On mine my colors were a dead match. He has not done the cab of the truck yet and you can compare the two. Also, I took a picture of the "S" on the side. You can see that an 18 footer would probably put the "S" on and trim the stripes. I checked mine for seams and they look to be every 5 feet or so. I had about 3 seams on mine. I didn't notice them until I looked.

We talked about this and he said he thought it best to print them all at 21 feet and allow the person to trim as needed to fit the 18. I have never been close enough to an 18 to know what the real difference is. But, I suspect WME is right.