Installation Of Progressive Dynamics Model 4045 Power Converter

[1988dolphin]

I am upgrading the converter on my 1988 dolphin. So far I have removed the old converter and traced out and labeled all wires. The new unit has yet to arrive. I have reviewed an online copy of the installation instructions from the manufacturer and they leave a bit to be desired. If anyone has done a converter swap on their rig using PD4045 converter, or any other converter please let me know what you learned.

Once this converter is installed I want to install two 6 volt batteries in series. Have yet to decide where to put the batteries.

Any kicks the correct direction would be appreciated.

Thanks

Dale

[MontanaChinook]

Where are you confused? I might have the same model. I'll look up the model number when I get a chance. I remember being confused about a few things, but I had no electrical experience when I did mine, so that makes sense.

I had an electrician wire the AC side of it for me, then I did all the DC wiring and grounding.

I might be able to help with specific questions, but there are people here with a lot of electrical experience. What model converter won't make much difference. They'll be able to help with actual questions.

[Maineah]

There are many how to's it is not for the faint of heart so follow all the instructions.

[Back East Don]

please let me know what you learned.

I learned you can never be too rich or too handsome.

Oh..you mean about swapping out electrical? It was harder to make it all perfectly neat than it was to do the actual connections. I used a different converter but the rational was likely the same. Wanted to update the battery charge part along with having a master breaker and subs. I decided that because much of my interior had been stripped out that it was a good opportunity to add and change the electrical. When I did my addition code required that I use weather/tamper proof outlets. I changed the outlet in the fridge compartment with this style figuring it was more exposed with the open vent above. I also added an outlet for the microwave and toaster oven I added (yeah I'm one of those). Microwave gets seldom used. I do however make the occasional toast.

Another idea I'll share is that instead of going the inverter route for TV and such I added 12 volt appliances. I found a TV that had an external power brick that the output of was 12 volts. Ditched the brick and wired it directly to the panel. I added a very small efficient 12 volt amp and a pair of wall mount speakers that runs off of it. I plug my phone in and have all of my music available. I also added cigarette lighter ports in various spots along with some USB power ports. These charge my phone & wireless internet access along with run my 12 volt vacuum, fan and air mattress inflator (I carry a small tent & air mattress for when we have one of our kids along). All of these have the appropriate fuse back at the panel.

Hope some of this helps or give you ideas.

[Bob C]

I installed a Progressive Dynamics 4245 in my RV shortly after I bought it. It was so simple that I kept wondering why others had problems. To install mine, all I had to do was unplug the old converter, unhook 2 wires for the 12 volt side of things. They were simply positive and negative (for 12 volt) There was also a grounding wire from the converter to the frame. I then only had to mount the new converter to the floor and hook up the three wires. I was done.

My 120 volt side never got touched because the converter plugged into a 120 volt outlet under the rear cabinets that was fused at the 120 volt entry box.

I have seen peoples photos of their updates and I really feel lucky for the way mine was installed.

[1988dolphin]

Thanks for your responses. Yes, I can be more specific. I have yet to see the new converter. It should arrive today. The AC side is pretty clear. The wiring from the converter 12 volt DC fuses to the load is clear. I have identified and labeled all that wiring. The part that is not clear is the DC side between the battery and the converter unit. I know that once I see it it will be clear.

My plan is to install two 6 volt car batteries once the job is done. Any recommendations as to where to place the batteries?

Dale

[kgibson4]

When I put the solar panels on our '87 Odyssey, I needed space for two batteries and the existing battery compartment only had room for one. I utilized part of the storage space under one of the dinette seats. The tool box was $20 from Home Depot, (much less than battery boxes that I could find on line) and sits on the wheel well. Our local RV supply (Roadrunner) had the vent kit for about $8, if I remember correctly. The location is closer to the solar panels and controller than the existing compartment.

[zero]

My plan is to install two 6 volt car batteries once the job is done. Any recommendations as to where to place the batteries?

Dale

Why two car batteries?? Seems that kind of defeats the possible benefits that you could get having two deep-cycle 6 volt batteries in series provides. "Car" batteries won't be deep-cycle and not suited for "house" batteries.

In regard to placement - keep in mind that two 6 volt batteries hooked in series to make 12 volts - need to be pretty close together unless you use some very big cable to connect them. Two 12 volt batteries in parallel don't have that problem.

[Maineah]

They are deep cycles or they wouldn't have bolts. The 6 volts are pretty high like another 4" one can get a fair amount of amps out of a pair of 12 volts depends on your needs. I like the plastic box ideal good plan on the venting. I would recommend one thing though draw your + from one battery and the - from the other not from one battery that insures a equal charge and draw down from both.

[kayakthecoast]

I'm thinking of just hooking my solar to just my house battery, I always isolate my batteries when boon docking with a switch on my dash. When driving I combine them for alternator charging. Still getting system together and it all new to me though.

[zero]

They are deep cycles or they wouldn't have bolts. The 6 volts are pretty high like another 4" one can get a fair amount of amps out of a pair of 12 volts depends on your needs. I like the plastic box ideal good plan on the venting. I would recommend one thing though draw your + from one battery and the - from the other not from one battery that insures a equal charge and draw down from both.

The poster stated . . "My plan is to install two 6 volt car batteries once the job is done."

So I am taking him for his word, i.e. car batteries. Also note there are plenty of batteries on the market with "bolts" instead of posts that are not deep-cycle. That even includes those el-cheap lawn-tractor batteries.

[kgibson4]

I think Maineah may have thought the pictures of my battery setup were from the original poster.

[1988dolphin]

The converter arrived today. It had instructions for a converter from a different manufacturer. No help but still was pretty simple. Took maybe 3 hours. I meant to say that I am going to use golf cart batteries. I would love Trojans but can not justify the expense right now. Will get two GC2-RD batteries at Costco at $85 each. I have the same tool box from Home Depot so I think I will use that. I have no room inside the camper so I think I may build in a compartment in the bottom of the closet and vent it to the exterior of the damper.

Thanks.

[Maineah]

I think Maineah may have thought the pictures of my battery setup were from the original poster.

I did sorry but I like your install good job.

The poster stated . . "My plan is to install two 6 volt car batteries once the job is done."

So I am taking him for his word, i.e. car batteries. Also note there are plenty of batteries on the market with "bolts" instead of posts that are not deep-cycle. That even includes those el-cheap lawn-tractor batteries.

True but lawn tractor all use bolt on terminals car batteries don't have bolts and deep cycles usually have both.

[kgibson4]

I did sorry but I like your install good job.

Thank you, sir.

[zero]

I did sorry but I like your install good job.

True but lawn tractor all use bolt on terminals car batteries don't have bolts and deep cycles usually have both.

You've got me confused. There are plenty of "lawn tractor" batteries with just round posts and also plenty with bolt. Deep cycles also come with a variety of optional connector types. My bank of Rolls-Surrette deep-cycle batteries are bolt-on only.

[zero]

. Will get two GC2-RD batteries at Costco at $85 each.

I stopped buying Trojans 10 years ago after their prices got high and they were no longer available locally. Years back some of the local golf-courses sold them. I've been using the Deka GC-2s that you can get through any NAPA store with no shipping charges. I have a dozen right now that are 9 years old. That's pretty amazing for batteries that cost me $48 each when new. They cost a lot more now.

[DanRT66]

I think Maineah may have thought the pictures of my battery setup were from the original poster.

This setup looks great, and I'm contemplating something very similar. I've got a 100W solar panel currently charging the single 12v deep cycle house battery; I want to change that out for 2 6v deep cycle and add a 1500 watt inverter. In looking at your setup: are the smaller red and white wires (not tape-wrapped) from the converter or a solar controller, or? Obviously, newbie at this. Thanks.

[kgibson4]

Everyone starts out as a newbie. I'm still waiting to graduate to something else.

The white and red wires on the far battery go to the solar charge controller. The white wire on the near battery is grounded to the vehicle frame. The remaining red wire goes to the vehicle alternator charging system but is disconnected. Our two 100 watt panels are more than enough to keep ahead of our 12 volt evaporative cooler which is our biggest power draw.

We don't watch TV when camping or use a microwave either so we don't have normal power needs.

I believe if you are going to use an inverter it should be wired directly to the batteries with much heavier wire than that used for the charging systems.

[DanRT66]

Thanks very much.

[DanRT66]

When solar-charged batteries are wired to an inverter (as I plan to do), is any change required to the native charging system or 12v connections? Is battery isolation done between the house batteries and the native charging system? Sorry for all the questions, and I appreciate your patience and answers!

[Maineah]

The inverter should not be effected by the solar system (other than giving it a boast it won't hurt it) and you isolator system will work as it all ways has.

[zero]

When solar-charged batteries are wired to an inverter (as I plan to do), is any change required to the native charging system or 12v connections? Is battery isolation done between the house batteries and the native charging system? Sorry for all the questions, and I appreciate your patience and answers!

Usually there is NO problem. I assume you've got big enough solar panels to require a controller? If so, the controller gives all the isolation needed. Only problem that comes to mind with some older and smaller solar panels when NO controller is used - is when they lack "blocking diodes." Those can drain the batteries when the sun goes down. Just about all modern solar panels over 20 watts, and all controllers automatically do the isolation.

[DanRT66]

Thanks! My solar panel is 100 watts (and I may add a second 100 in future) and I have a 30 amp controller. Words of wisdom much appreciated!

[NWishome]

I just got my 1993 Toyota Dophin 2 days ago.  I want to change the 12 V house battery to two 6 V which is what we had on our Hybrid TT and it worked great.  Of course, on the TT the mounting was on the tongue so venting was not an issue which is what my question is about.  I had read on some other battery sites that the vent had to be 6 inches above the top of the batteries (as Hydrogen is lighter than air) and in this application the vent is at the top of the batteries.  Is that sufficient?