Leveling

[krilov]

What is the best way you found to level your rig?

Especially interested in stealth solutions.

Thanks!

[Maineah]

Stealth as in can't see them? They make some things that look like giant Lagos most RV stores have them they even work like Lagos you just stack them for what ever hight you need. Me I don't care what it looks like just as long as it's level I use drive on plastic ramps gives me the added benefit of ramps to change the oil after a long camping trip!

[McShank]

Those stackable locking squares are available at WalMart for under $25 for a bag of about 10. They are called Linx Levelers. Another useful item is a set of 2 levels that mount onto the back and side of your rig. These are slightly curved and have marker lines on each side that correspond to 1" increments. You look at where the bubble is in the tube and count how many lines the bubble is off of center - each line represents 1" of height to adjust for with the levelers. Its pretty easy to see you need to raise the rear 3" and one side 1", for instance.

Seamus McShank

[Derek up North]

The stealthiest way I can think of to level is to park in the 'levelest' spot you can find and then make final adjustments with the rear air springs.

[Gulfstream Greg]

I am guessing you mean "least amount of noise". As someone said find the levelest looking spot. 99% of everyone uses some sort of blocks. After awhile you will be able to judge how many you need at each wheel in relation to where the bubble is sitting. Some have levels in the cab, one on the door and one on the dash. It works fairly well for moving around to find the sweet spot. Here is some level 101 in case you don't know. Refrigerators are more critical front to back for level, my opinion is no more than half bubble or a little more out level or the refer will get damaged when running. First level the rig using the freezer tray inside the refer then find a spot somewhere inside on a counter that is the same then you never have to open the refer to check the level. Once you are level you can place some levels in the cab as a reference when maneuvering in a spot. Another thing to look out for is those small bulls-eye levels and even the ones that are round with two levels in them are not always accurate. If you spin them 180 degrees they can sometimes change a 1/4 bubble so watch out for that.

Scissor jacks are another option under each corner. Allot of work though cranking them down and up and down and up trying to get it all level. They do make a rig rock solid (no rockin).

Experience on how much this or that wheel needs to achieve level is the key to fast least amount of engine revving.

[Derek up North]

In their online manuals, Dometic says 'comfortable', Norcold says +/- 3 degrees. It seem (apparently) that older units were more sensative.

If you consider the 3 degrees side-to-side (looking at the fridge) published by

Norcold, that's roughly equivalent to leveling the fridge to perfection then

jacking up the front end about 7" (over a 137" wheelbase). I haven't tried the

experiment myself, but I think it would be pretty easy to do it 'seat of the

pants' and easily be within those limits.

I think this is the (harder to find online) manual for the older style fridges:-

http://webspace.webring.com/people/jv/vintage_campers1/Dometic_Refr_Service_Manual.pdf

[Gulfstream Greg]

Here is a 1986 vintage Dometic manual, found here in the files and photos section http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/uploads/1169594953/gallery_1_48_332030.pdf (Installation Operation)

Here is an excerpt from the starting and leveling

INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE

HOW TO START THE REFRIGERATOR

Leveling

In the boiler, ammonia vapor is distilled from an

ammonia-water mixture and carried to the finned condenser,

where it liquifies. The liquid flows to the

evaporator, where it creates cold by evaporating into a

circulating flow of hydrogen gas. If the evaporator coil is

not level the liquid readily accumulates, forming pockets

which can impair the gas curculation or even block it, in

which case, of course, the cooling will stop.

When the recreational vehicle is stationary it must be

leveled to be comfortable to live in. If the refrigerator is

properly installed, the freezer shelf parallel to the floor,

the refrigerator will then also perform properly. A bubble

level should be placed on the freezer shelf. When the

vehicle is in tow, the continuous rolling and pitching

movement will not affect the refrigerator as long as the

movement passes either side of level, but when the trailer

is temporarily parked this sensitivity of the refrigerator

should be remembered. So once more, before you start

the refrigerator make sure the recreational vehicle is

leveled to be comfortable to live in.

Gas

[Derek up North]

"... make sure the recreational vehicle is leveled to be comfortable to live in."

Yep. That's where the discussion starts. They don't say "use a spirit level to make certain it is absolutely level". Too vague for my liking. Chances are that having 3 adults sit on the couch will put you 1 degree off level plus the fact that the cheap levels used by most are probably accurate to +/- 1 degree, I'll embrace the 'comfortable' guideline.