Spair tire and wheel on front

[TR145]

The GVW at back of the MH is almost over loaded but the front is not with some left over. Does mounting the spair tire and wheel on the front in front of the radiator block the air flow to the radiator?

Other notes, 1992 Winnebago Winnie, found tight engine valves, runs better now.

Built a track bar/pannard rod, bar from frame to axel at the rear. Keeps the coach from swaying side for side in wind. ie body over the axel. Not a antisway bar, that trys to stop the "lean" of the coach. Track bar does help steering control also. Used 2 140 Volvo track bar, cut in half and used the small ends. Used one additional toyota spring clamp "u" bolt and hooks under stock "U". Mounts on axel drivers side and frame pass. side. Sandwitch mounting plates around frame on pass side. Hard to clear brake stuff on pass side. 6k trip works great.

Built reciver for Bike rack, build channel to fit inside of frame horns/ends at sq. tube "hose holder." Weld plates on end of channels to bolt to the flange,( vertical section of the frame) of the MH frame ends at hose holder.The channel takes the weight. Angle iron runs front beside the holding tank(it is off to the pass side a bit) to the front, to a angle iron installed rignt left accross the frame. 12000 miles, it works good, it bike wheel, does block the pass side tail light some what. Need to install additonal tail/stop light. Holds ONLY two bikes.

To remove the roof A/C will motel it when hot at night. Have not used roof A/C to in three labor/memorial trips to CA, from ND. We have not had to motel it, we just head for a lake or the mountains for the nights camping when it is hot.

TR 145 http://www.volvoadventures.com/220spec.html

[bufbooth]

Mounting the spare tire on the front will block the air flow to the radiator, the only question

is by how much, and can you afford the lost of air flow. If you are currently experencing any

running hot issues (like on hills or in mountains), then even the smallest air blockage will be

an issue, you will be running hot faster and could even reach the point of over heating.

Last summer I was traveling in the Eastern part of Northern Wyoming and was taking some steep

grades, Ms. Clark was heating up a bit, I slowed her down a bit and even turned the heater on

from time to time to keep her near normal on the tempature guage. As I reached the last peak,

there was a rest stop and decided to give her and myself a break, when I turned the engine off

the temperature guage was slightly above normal. About 30 minutes later I returned to leave

and the engine ran really rough and died, tried again and the same thing. As panic started to

settle in (was I about 50 miles from the next town, and town was meaning more than 5 houses),

I noticed that my temperature guage was right at the overheat line, and realized I had vapor locked

the engine. It was about 90 degrees out and I must of turned the engine off right as the

themostart was probably going to open. I openned the hood of the engine and gave her about

five minutes to vent, and tried to start her up, she ran really rough and I had to keep pumping

the gas to keep her running and after about 10 seconds of this she finally revved up, and the

water pump finally was able to pump the cooler water though the engine, the temperature

gauge immediately dropped down to the normal position.

So, what I was trying to say in the above is that if I had any reduced air flow I probably would of

vapor locked or over heated the engine before stopping. Also, what I do now on very hot days

or hilly travel is to let the engine run for a minute or two before I turn her off and pop the hood

open a few inches to vent. Popping the hood is the first thing I do when I stop for gas.

Dennis...