d.richey Posted October 28, 2007 Share Posted October 28, 2007 (edited) I apologize for so many queries after just joining but I need to get off on the right foot with a few areas. I thought this proportioning valve adjustment would be something the mechanic could understand and correct but after perusing the May 2000 article by Bill Williams the detail of all this may not facilitate a correct adjustment. If I have the 91 Winn. Warr. which type of valve do I have? He mentions hydraulic propor.valves, mechanical proport. valves, metering valves. I am most likely not going to slam on the brakes the way I drive and even so I need a easy touch brake for health reasons. Until I perused his article I assumed it was advisable and simple for the mechanically inclined. Could someone simplify his article and still be detailed enough so that I can print something for my mechanic? Trying to learn something I checked out a Chilton's manual and in the part about this proportioning load senser valve it mentions the average owner/mechanic should -would not be able to do this fine-tuned adjusting. Who then is a specialist in this? A brake man? Is my neighbor hood mechanic at the service station qualified? Perhaps the Toyota dealer but then is it a license issue messing with that? Thanks Doug Edited October 28, 2007 by d.richey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shoprat Posted October 28, 2007 Share Posted October 28, 2007 Howdy d.richey If the proportioning valve is the one I'm thinking off, it's on the passenger side rear frame rail by the rear axle with a rod going down to the rear axle. It was there on the pickup frame to allow more braking to the rear wheels when hauling heavy loads in the pickup box. As the frame settled lower due to the weight in the box, more braking force would go to the back wheels. If your motor home is setting level fore and aft, 70 percent of the weight of your motor home is being slowed down by the front brakes. Thats a lot of heat. It glazes pads. It makes it hard to stop the MH over time because you have to push harder on the brakes to get it to slow down, which glazes the pads more. Yes, you can adjust it so that the valve will put more force to the rear wheels, just shove the valves' arm all the way up when the vehicles setting level. Or you can do what I did. Pull the silly thing off and bypass it. You already have all the weight you can have back there. By getting rid of it, your back brakes absorb more of the braking force, making the vehicle easier to stop. I also replaced the front rotors with slotted rotors to dissapate the heat better, and installed pads with racing compound construction to get better braking. It hogs my vehicle down big time now. I used to push a lot harder on the pedal to get it to stop in a longer distance before the mods. It was a little pricey, but going downhill on a steep grade and when I clamp on the anchors the bugger slows down is worth it to me. Ok. just saw your edit- so I'm editing too. When I removed the load sensing prop valve, I took it on a gravel road after I adjusted the brakes, and got it going about 40 m.p.h. I then slammed on the brakes to check my mods out to see if it would try to swap ends. It stopped straight and true. No problem. Get rid of the silly thing. Bypass at least. Mine was leaking brake fluid, and it would cost me 150 bucks to replace it. THE SYSTEM WORKS BETTER WITHOUT IT. Sorry for shouting, but you need all the braking force you can get. It's ok for a pickup, steenks to the max on a motorhome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geysergazers Posted October 30, 2007 Share Posted October 30, 2007 Doug, I removed my "brake proportioning load sensing valve" also, as have some others here. Difference of night and day! The brakes work well now-with reasonable pedal pressure. This is a Personal Choice only, as this is a modification of the Factory Brake System. I was comfortable with making this modification. Probably no-one will do an outright removal for you. It is an easy DIY if you are competent doing brake system work including Bleeding and Leak-checking. As always, YMMV Lew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geysergazers Posted November 6, 2007 Share Posted November 6, 2007 I had a thought....You know the one, about "a picture is worth a thousand words"?? So I went out in the cold, crawled under Ms Dolphin and took a couple Pics of what it looks like after the "load sensing rear brake biasing or proportioning valve" has been removed. They are HERE. (in the Galleries). Hope this helps a little. As always, YMMV Lew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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