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Vent Lid Search


canman47

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I have a 92 Itasca Spirit and a big acorn fell and broke the roof vent lid. My local RV supply who's been in business for 40 years says he's never seen this one. No identifying marks. Anyone else found these or do I have to replace the whole assembly?

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Yeah, pretty big acorn and the tree is 80 feet tall so it had some velocity. Perfect acorn shaped hole right in the center. I now have a soup pot in the middle of the bed catching the rain water. I'll try the Winnebago site.

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I have a 92 Itasca Spirit and a big acorn fell and broke the roof vent lid. My local RV supply who's been in business for 40 years says he's never seen this one. No identifying marks. Anyone else found these or do I have to replace the whole assembly?

I had the same issue with my 1986 Winnebago Phasar.

Those lids are sometimes available aftermarket as part # WV14.

OEM Winnebago #s are 051384-01-000 or 055218-01-000

The old-style Elixir vent lids will usually work (same hinge hook-up) but the corners are square instead of curved.

Considering an OEM lid is $75 and an entire new non-powered vent assembly is $40 shipped to your door - not usually worth buying an OEM lid.

By the way, I have an OEM lid you can have for free if you are driving distance to central New York near Cooperstown. You can have the whole assembly, fan and all. From an 86 LeSharo Winne.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks for the replies. I checked with the Winnebago parts place and the lid is about $90 with tax, S&H. I can replace the whole vent for half that but I'm wondering if the OEM lid is stronger. Feels pretty beefy and it lasted 22 years! Someone suggested RV doctor george in Sacramento. Seems that old George has died but the business lives on. I had a fun time looking through his RV junk that has accumulated for maybe 50 years. Some stuff brand new in it's original packages. I found a spare wheel I needed for my 71 Apollo which was very hard to find. It was in a pile of ancient junk that I'm sure no one had looked through in 20 years. A rusty old wheel but George knew I needed it and wouldn't budge from his $200 price. I paid it since I might never see another one.

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Well, I tried to patch it by pressing the broken piece into the whole which caused the whole thing to crack. Also the sealers I've looked at are not compatible with certain plastics and I don't know what plastic this is. Right now duct tape is working nicely but looks a little tacky.

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I was thinking stainless steel tape. I put some on the top of the Ford top brake lite assy 10 years ago and it's still good. That might have worked originally??

I just had my roof reworked and had all new fixtures as they were cracking all over, only last so long I guess.

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