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1988 Mini-Cruiser Over-Cab Sleeper Rot Repair


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The bed over the truck cab was sagging. Not much rot visible from the outside. Got tearing into it for two days now. Finally got to a point where I can stop tearing apart and start putting together. Worst part was removing the rotten cross-beam supports made from 13/16" X 3 1/2" X 7 foot boards. They were glued to the aluminum skin and even with a heat-gun - had a hard time separating them from the skin without doing damage.

Had a tough time trying to decide on what wood to use. Need something as strong as possible and naturally rot resistant. Pressure treated lumber is no good for this. To corrosive to the aluminum frame it is getting bolted to. Decided on black locust, black walnut or white oak. Went to a nearby mill and the choice was easy. White Oak was the only one they had from my choices. Twice as strong as pine and much more rot-resistant.

Got it opened up and airing out now. What the heck were RV makers thinking using interior grade Luan plywood in these things where dampness is sure to happen? Wound up getting some exterior-grade birch 7/32" thick.

What a mess. Will be looking better soon (I hope).

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Well - at least these Mini-Cruisers are consistent. Did you have a hard time keeping the front curve correct when gluing and installing the new wood beams? I found it to be VERY difficult. These RV bodies were obviously built in a factory before they sat on top of a truck. I had to use two hydraulic jacks to hold the first beam up in position while I pulled on the center of it towards the back of the camper with a turnbuckle. It is working out well but is a miserable repair to do with the body on the truck. The original boards were screwed to the square-aluminum tube-frame with wood screws. I've reinstalled with 10-24 stainless-steel machine-screws and lock-nuts. I'm amazed at the quality of the glue they used back in 1988 to fasten those boards to the aluminum skin. Even with a heat-gun I had a difficult time getting those rotted board out without crinkling the aluminum or burning the exterior paint. As to the wood -I also would of used white ash if I hadn't found the white oak. The oak is near the most rot resistant wood we have in my area. Used often for fence posts.

It's getting there. Not too eager to ever do another though.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Almost got it done. On my 2nd set of robins nesting a few feet above the Minicruiser. Had eggs in the nest when I started. Little birds got feathers and left the nest last week and now a robin is sitting on eggs again. Round 2, it seems.

Framing is white oak. Bed plywood is 3/8" four-ply marine-grade Douglas Fir. Walls are 7/32" Chinese Birch. And no - I have no experience with whatever Chinese Birch is. I was searching for some hardwood plywood in the 1/4" range that is made with exterior-grade waterproof glue. Home Depot had a sale on exterior-grade 7/32" birch. I assumed it would be yellow birch (like US birch plywood usually is). Nope. Comes from China. Seems the market right now is flooded with Chinese hard-wood plywood and they are being accused of selling it at below cost. So, time will tell. Kind of pretty wood and very hard. I ran a piece in a washing machine to test the glue and it is indeed - waterproof.

Cab will be finished today. Put the windows back in yesterday with Quad sealant.

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jdemaris,

Fantastic job! You are a true master craftsman.

Ken in Tucson

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