Has anyone rebuilt their window frames so they look like new?

[Stevo]

I need to remove the windows from my 18' Sunrader and reseal the openings and while they are out I'd like to take the frames apart and clean them up so they look like new. I'd like to find some super-duper paint that goes over aluminum that is proven to NOT turn into a paint-peeling mess down the road after the suns been cooking them. Has anyone done that? Also, in each window there is square plastic tab that needs to be replaced. Can I buy replacements for those tabs?

Thanks

[WME]

Your frames should be anodized, painting them is out. Easy answer is to wax them good. About the only non-peel finish is powder coating.

[WME]

Yes you can paint aluminum, but not by the average guy at home. It requires a full body suit with positive air pressure to a full hood for the sprayer. Anybody else in the vicinity must wear cloth coveralls and a 1/2 face carbon respirator with goggles. The main paint for this type of work is Dupont Imron or Awlgrip

About the best the average joe can do is to take stuff to a shop that deals with this stuff and pay to have things painted.

I still think wax is the way to go.

[Stevo]

Hmmm, according to this search there are lots of articles on how easy it is to paint anodized aluminum. https://startpage.com/do/search?query=how+to+paint+anodized+aluminum%3F&cat=web&pl=chrome&language=english Many of the articles claim anodized aluminum is the perfect substrate for paint to because its neutral. It seems that the key is to hit it with a self etching primer first. WME: why do you say it can't be done by anyone? Has that been your experience? I'd probably do wax if they were in good condition but they are all scratched up and funky looking. Also, I think I want to lose the dark color for s light color so the frames will stay cooler in the hot tropical sun.

Has anyone take apart their motorhome windows? I'm wondering if its possible to easily separate the glass from the frames?

[WME]

Just as many of the articles say to remove the anodize. I thought your key point was no peeling. Remember that your anodize finish has lasted almost 20 years. The type of paint that will last like that is Imron and Awlgrip, the fumes from them are VERY toxic. That is why its beyond the average joe.

If you try the rattle can self etch primer and final coat with a rattle can, expect 3-5 years before flakes. Clean should be your mantra.

The windows usually have some sealer between the glass and frame. The trim molding isn't the seal . Just be careful and try working around the inside of the glass with a razor.

[Stevo]

Yeah but the only real test would be many months or years in the sun.

Here is my suggestion for what its worth which is usually little to nothing ;(

Go find a junky old window, it can come from a house instead of a motorhome, and paint it to see what happens. Let it dry and see how tough you think the paint is. There is only one person who has to be happy with the amount of work it will take and the results.

[Stevo]

I looked at the window frames a lot closer yesterday and they are in much better shape than I originally thought. I wish they weren't black but I have decided to live with that color instead of risking a possible peeling mess later. I'm still going to pull them so they will be out of the way while doing the body work and then I'll clean them up and wax them like WME suggested. I'm thinking about glassing a small lip above each window to keep the rain away from the top seal of the window.

Is butyl tape still the best way to seal the windows? I'm like epoxy them in permanently and never have to worry about leaks like Steve did but then it would be a major issue later if I had to deal with a broken window.

[WME]

Because a RV flexs a lot epoxy is not the stuff, if almost forever perment mounting is what you want use 3-M 5200. Its flexabile amd sticks beyond anything else.

[Stevo]

Thanks Karin.