Jump to content

Painting that ugly plastic wood


PixieChick

Recommended Posts

Soooo, how is your paint job holding up on the cupboards and walls? I see some have opted for the make-over and I would love to know what works best, because the plastic wood has to go! I've painted paneling before and have always scuffed, used Kilz, or something, but I dread sanding. Is this the method here too?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you can find yourself a can of the good old fashioned "Liquid Sandpaper" (the good stuff that the fumes get you stoned), wipe everything down to knock the shine. It chemically cleans the surface so the paint will stick. Then, use ONLY oil based Kilz for your primer. Finally, paint your choice hippie-chick colors (latex is fine).

-Riverman77

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We went thru trying to match the wall paper, finally gave up and went to the paint store with a sample of the wall paper to get painting advice.

The short story,

To me the key is to use one brand or compatible system, primer, paint need to be compatible. (I'm not a paint person, so I wanted to make sure what I wanted to do would work, hence, ask the paint store people)

1) Remove loose or getting ready to fall off wallpaper.

2) If its greasy, dirty, or oily, wipe it down to clean it up a little. Ours was reasonably clean, we had wiped the walls already to clean it up. Riverman suggest using liquid sandpaper, probably not a bad idea to give the primer a better shot at sticking to something.

3) paint with Zinser 1-2-3 primer. This was recommended by the paint store to get the paint to stick to the wallpaper and just make everything one base for the paint to stick to. Zinser 1-2-3 doesn't do a good job of killing stains, so we painted over the stained areas with Kilz.

The primer did a good job of filling in the bump where the wall paper ends and the bare wall begins, Its also thick and added a little bit of textures look fell to the final paint.

4) use blue tape or just be careful around the trim. A lot of my trim was falling off (the little plastic round bead stuff thats in the corners), so I just removed it. After the paint was dried, I caulked a bead of brownish RTV around all the corners where the trim was, looks great.

I used a very thick roller and put the primer and paint on thick, The dried paint has a little texture to it, looks good, even close up. Use a semi gloss for the walls and a satin for the ceiling.

Here are a couple links to what we did.

Interior Decorating

Interior makeover

JOhn Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Soooo, how is your paint job holding up on the cupboards and walls? I see some have opted for the make-over and I would love to know what works best, because the plastic wood has to go! I've painted paneling before and have always scuffed, used Kilz, or something, but I dread sanding. Is this the method here too?

I'm not sure exactly what material you are painting. If the surface is actually plastlic, there is a self-etching paint that that bonds to plastic. Works fine. Name is "Fusion." Made by Krylon. Home Depot and Walmart has it as I'm sure many other places do, in spray cans.

http://www.krylon.com/products/fusion_for_plastic/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Folks. Exactly what I wanted to hear~no sanding, just prime well. I had gotten a 'bonding primer' at Lowes that's specifically for high gloss surfaces. It's their Velspar brand, so hope it's sufficient. Not sure what I want to do, but this is a start. Thanks again and I really appreciated the pictures, Waiter-you created a nice clean, updated look.

Will be posting again soon. Thanks so much for being here!

PixieChick

87 Odyssey

thistledowngreenhouse.com

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Take a lot of photos, and write down any problems or recommendations, and I hope you can give us a good writeup for the next person who goes thru this.

Sounds like your on your way and will have that baby personalized with your touch in no time. :-)

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It really is intended for glossy paint surfaces. Not sure what it would do to vinyl wallpaper.

Paint doesn't stick very well to glossy surfaces, you need a rough surface for the paint to grip onto (mechanical bond)

You wipe this stuff on,and wait a little bit. It etches into the glossy paint. You then wipe it off, and you should have a surface that's no longer glossy, and paint can grip onto it better.

JOhn Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto



Link to comment
Share on other sites

There's an excellent thread in the diy forum on painting the interior white. Painting over the wallpaper etc.

White is the way to go. Cheap krylon rustoleum white.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not so sure about "roughing up surfaces" for paint to stick. I'll bet there are enough of us "older" people here that remember having to paint wood frame, double hung windows. Remember how you had to be careful not to get the paint on the glass because it was hard to get off? Glass is pretty glossy and the paint would stick to it just fine. When I painted the inside of my '85 Dolphin, I painted everything-the plastic, the wallpaper, the cheap paneling, everything, with two coats of Kilz and then the final top color. So far it's sticking just fine with no peeling or bubbling. All the paint looks great. If any surface was greasy or really dirty, I went over it with a paper towel wetted down with 409 to clean things up. When everything was nice and dry, I painted.

Like Derek said; "With any paint job, 80% of results are from the prep work." I'd also add that the job is MUCH easier with a good brush. I used a $16.00 Purdy 2" wide angle cutter brush. With the angle brush, I could cut in the trim, get in corners and work around obstructions much easier than with a straight brush. Those cheap, .99 cent, throw-away brushes are mostly junk, only good for spreading glue around or for coating the roof with that white goo that stops leaks. Some of the small, 4-inch rollers can do a fair job, but they tend to leave some roller marks at times. I like a good brush. Just be patient and take your time and the job will be "just as good as it oughta' be" as my old boss at the boat yard used to say.

Here are some photos of my Dolphin "Furthur"

post-2678-0-97001500-1358919745_thumb.jp

post-2678-0-88549400-1358919764_thumb.jp

post-2678-0-06171400-1358919814_thumb.jp

post-2678-0-38498400-1358919841_thumb.jp

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dolphinite;

You promised me you wouldn't post those photos so my wife could see them. :-)

Definitely a level above what I did in mine, looks very nice. Put the vase of flowers on the table and these photos could be in some of those RV magazines.

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Waiter is right, Dolpinite, that paint job is amaaazing, but your wife also did a dynamite job, Waiter. Interior pictures are especially helpful and it's so wonderful to see what you have all done with your Toys... Prepping and painting is not an easy task, I re-did a Queen Ann in another life and have painted almost every room in every house I've lived in, BUT, Motorhomes and plasticky walls are tricky.

I'm going to return the product I got from Lowes and follow your advice with the liq sand and Kilz. Tried and true. ~Journal in hand I will document, post and share.

You folks are wonderful here, thanks for all your support!

~PixieChick

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Derek,

"Liquid Sandpaper" was the very best product that I have ever used, especially for those difficult jobs where paint adhesion is having problems. Unfortunatley, you can't find the stuff anymore. Either the EPA or certain states have banned it. It seems as if whenever a product works too good, the government finds some reason of cancer or "save the kids" and outlaws products. ***If you have any idea where I could buy some more (to stock up on), I would be very greatful to you.***

PS Your suggestion of using TSP prior to painting, is also a good one. The pure (powder form) works best. Be sure to wear gloves...it will rot your hands!

-Riverman77

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry, I should have been a little more clear. Liquid Sandpaper (brand name) was the best product ever made, for deglossing. The chemicals in it were so strong, you needed lots of ventilation (or get dizzy from the fumes). Just one fast wipe with a wetted rag, and your surface was ready for any paint to stick to it. Since its revoval from the market (Not sure if it's a state or federal ban), there have been may phony brands to hit the market. But, they don't work. They are so watered down, that a person can drink them (but, I wouldn't). If you have any information where the good old Liquid Sandpaper can be purchased, I would be very happy to know any information about it. Perhaps it is simply some few strict states that have banned the product.

-Riverman77

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Riverman,

Waiters Workshop rule # 432: "If it says "Environmentally Friendly" thats the first clue that its probably not going to work."

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah, thanks Riverman.. my grandfather turned me on to tsp many years ago and glad to see it's still around. Most of the good old basics are best for nearly everything~washing soda, fels naptha,vinegar, baking soda, peroxide..... Washing soda even removes paint!

Amazing how these basics are all we really need to clean almost anything and everything!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most of the good old basics are best for nearly everything~washing soda, fels naptha,vinegar, baking soda, peroxide..... Washing soda even removes paint!

Amazing how these basics are all we really need to clean almost anything and everything!

Buy in bulk, repackage in smaller containers and slap on a fancy label. Get rich quick.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Derek,

Thanks for the 2 links. The 2nd one (google.c.iw=102 etc) is actually a photo of the REAL "Liquid Sandpaper" (2nd & 3rd photos in red, white & blue cans). Unfortunately, that link of a photo is as close as I have found, including some old how to use L/S information from 4 or 5 years ago. I have tried to use several of the newer (watered down) products, and they simply don't work. I have always ended up using the electric sander with many sheets of sandpaper to prep each job.

Thanks anyhow for the replies. I was mearly hoping for a miracle that you or someone would have chimed in with something like, "Oh ya, click on this website or call this number...they have lots it stock". But unfortunately, it looks like the stinkin' EPA has removed another very fine product. One of these day's, we are all going to be living in the SAFEST country that we don't want to live in.

Are the rules, regs & safety bans up in Canada as frustrating as it seems America is becoming?

-Riverman77

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow, you can certainly can tell that the natives are starting to panic!

The stuff used to cost only about $5.00 per quart.

Thanks.

-Riverman77

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Karin,

I just sent you a message, via website messaging system.

Thank You,

-Riverman77

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...