ted.thurlby Posted December 5, 2012 Share Posted December 5, 2012 Subject: Rear bearing regrease and inspection. Just started the rear bearing regrease. Interesting job to say the least. The hardest part was getting the cones off. After pulling the shaft set it aside and use a larger phillips driver to take the two screws out. Looks things over first as a precaution. Spin the retainer off then pull the hub. I took the rear seal out and will replace it even though it looked good. With 42k on the hardware it's not a bad idea. The bearing looked good but the grease was more liquid than grease. The rear one which is larger than the front one was greased better. I cleaned and now will put together. While off I inspected the brakes and they look real good. No need to change them. No leakage of brake fluid. I hope this will answer any questions for those who want to regrease their rear end. It wasn't that bad. Also I painted all parts even the rims - that you can see in another post. Let me know if you have any questions. Ted from Seattle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted December 5, 2012 Share Posted December 5, 2012 fantastic post... marking my logs to check mine on 42k. just curious, how much longer do you think it could have gone before looking bad? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted December 5, 2012 Share Posted December 5, 2012 Subject: Rear bearing regrease and inspection. Just started the rear bearing regrease. Interesting job to say the least. The hardest part was getting the cones off. After pulling the shaft set it aside and use a larger phillips driver to take the two screws out. Looks things over first as a precaution. Spin the retainer off then pull the hub. I took the rear seal out and will replace it even though it looked good. With 42k on the hardware it's not a bad idea. The bearing looked good but the grease was more liquid than grease. The rear one which is larger than the front one was greased better. I cleaned and now will put together. While off I inspected the brakes and they look real good. No need to change them. No leakage of brake fluid. I hope this will answer any questions for those who want to regrease their rear end. It wasn't that bad. Also I painted all parts even the rims - that you can see in another post. Let me know if you have any questions. Ted from Seattle. The full floater I just had apart also was more liquid then grease from the 90W gear oil getting in there. On mine, the little outboard seals were not there. I suspect they were intentionally left out for extra lube purposes (like a Dana 70 or 70 USA full-floater). Here are some numbers and current prices for some parts in the FF 1 ton rear. Note the price difference with NAPA being much higher for the exact same parts. Full floating rear axle: BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0522680 Dual Rear Wheels; Rear Inner seal; RWD $1.64 at Rock Auto NATIONAL Part # 710076 Oil Seal; Nitrile Seal, Shaft Size=1.35", Housing Bore=1.62, Outer Diameter=1.625, Width=0.355in Dual Rear Wheel; Rear Outer seal $1.64 at Rock Auto NAPA rear outer seal - # 710076 (made by SKF), $6.17 BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0523184 Dual Rear Wheels; Rear Outer seal; RWD $2.19 at Rock Auto TIMKEN Part # 710076 DRW; Full Floating Axle; Rear Outer seal $2.55 Rock Auto SKF Part # 13911 {#9031035001} Width=.359"; Shaft=1.378"; Outside diameter=1.6200"; Bore=1.614IN Dual Rr. Whls; Rear Outer seal $3.62 at Rock Auto SKF Part # OS24635 Rear Inner Seal DUAL WHEELS $4.51 at Rock Auto NAPA rear inner seal (made by SKF) # 24635, 2.44” ID, 3.354” OD, and .315” wide, $16.38 TIMKEN Part # 226285 DRW; Full Floating Axle; Rear Inner seal $4.80 at Rock Auto Brake shoes BENDIX Part # RS523 1 Ton; Relined; Rear; RWD $15.74 outright (no core charge) Rock Auto NAPA Rayloc # TS414 relined, $16.97 plus $6.50 added core charge. BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0811109 {#0811075} Heavy Duty Chassis, Model # Ending In 3W; HD and FF Rear; RWD $19.28 outright (no core charge). Rock Auto Wheel cylinder: AMERICAN REMANUFACTURERS INC. Part # 8422707 Rear Wheel Cylinder 1 TON and w/FT DISC/RR DRUM Except 4 WHEEL/ALL WHEEL DRIVE,CAB & CHASSIS (INCL CHINOOK CAMPER); DRW; 7/8"; RN63 Model Rear Wheel Cylinder 1 TON and w/FT DISC/RR DRUM Except 4 WHEEL/ALL WHEEL DRIVE,CAB & CHASSIS (INCL CHINOOK CAMPER); SRW; 7/8"; RN63 Model Rear Wheel Cylinder 1 TON and w/FT DISC/RR DRUM Except 4 WHEEL/ALL WHEEL DRIVE,EXC CAB & CHASSIS, CHINOOK & T100; 7/8"; RN63 $6.34 at Rock Auto (new, not rebuilt). RAYBESTOS Part # WC37654 {#2037654} Professional Grade 1 Ton; Rear; RWD, $6.36 at Rock Auto NAPA # UP 37654, $17.38, 7/8” bore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kuzbro Posted December 7, 2012 Share Posted December 7, 2012 Repacked my bearings last summer. I replaced the inner and outer seals, grease was partially diluted with gear oil, but bearings looked fine. I replaced the gaskets at the axle flange, got them from Toyota, replaced one of the locking screws, also from Toyota. Breaks shoes and hardware still in good shape, last done three years , 20,000 miles ago. The cone washers came out with a few taps on the hub,...check out YouTube for pictures of same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted December 7, 2012 Share Posted December 7, 2012 I did mine also, new seals, clean and re-pack. Brake shoes look good. Heres another link that has some more photos. http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=3483 John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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