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Wedgewood oven


tlava

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I have a Wedgwood model is T 2130 (4 burner) in an '86 Sunrader

The pilot for the oven lights, though with some difficulty (hard to keep lit), and when/if it does finally light, the flame is extremely low/faint; when I turn the oven from pilot to a temp setting. the main burner does not ignite, and it seems no gas is getting to it. Any ideas? is this just a thermocouple issue? any go get the gas to flow into main burner an bypass thermocouple, etc?

Thanks!

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Nice; I have exact same rig, model year and problem. 86 21 foot sunrader; my oven was mint condition; it was obvious that it had never been used. I read some articles in this foruym that suggested there were a slew of sunraders with wedgwood ovens like this; the fix is simple; place the bulb of the thermo (the one inside the oven underneath the burner) into the flame of the pilot such that it heats to a nice glow. I had to remove mine from the little brass mount they had in there to do this and just secured it with some bail wire.

Works like a charm now.

You can test this also by holding a bic lighter over the bulb of the thermo till it glows then turn on service; pull your hand out fast though!

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Im not sure about the pilot, as I never used my wedgewood oven, and dont know if it even has a pilot, as I did use the burners at times before I took it out of my kitchen, and they were light as you go. I use a 2 burner electric now. I do still have my old Wedgewood range, and am gonna keep it for another month or so, then off the the metal scrap yard. I am giving it away to anyone that wants it, but it would have to be for pick up only by someone near or traveling through central Illinois. I have it posted here

http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=4928&hl=

Any Takers?

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Totem: any idea how to raise the flame on the pilot? Mine is very low and hard to keep lit...

David: I would be interested in the oven; I often visit my mother in SL, but may not be making the trip for 4 mos.; if not then then not till next summer... any way to hold it?

is the oven door working on it? seems to be detached in pic...

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Totem: any idea how to raise the flame on the pilot? Mine is very low and hard to keep lit...

David: I would be interested in the oven; I often visit my mother in SL, but may not be making the trip for 4 mos.; if not then then not till next summer... any way to hold it?

is the oven door working on it? seems to be detached in pic...

Yes, all parts are there, had to remove the door front to be able to get to the screws holding the oven into the cabinet. It is very simple to put back on. I could probably do the 4 months, but I rent, and having this thing laying around my apartment for another year isn't something I really want to do. So keep me posted, as I am off the I-74 and I-55 and I-39 interchanges near Bloomington, Illinois, and going to St. Louis from the north would pass right by close.

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Take the stove top burner shelf and burner covers off and pull oven temp knob off, this should expose the brass oven gas regulator, note it has some screws that control pilot flow. Good luck! Don't make the pilot too huge or it could throw off temperatures as others have stated in other threads

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Thanks Totem--I did pull the knob off previously, and saw a small scriew/switch to turn the gas "off" or on--that was marked right on the regulator under the knob in front; I took the burner shelf off to look at the regulator from the back side, but wasn't looking for any adjustments there--is that were the pilot adjustment is, or is it on the front side under the knob? is it marked?

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Yes, all parts are there, had to remove the door front to be able to get to the screws holding the oven into the cabinet. It is very simple to put back on. I could probably do the 4 months, but I rent, and having this thing laying around my apartment for another year isn't something I really want to do. So keep me posted, as I am off the I-74 and I-55 and I-39 interchanges near Bloomington, Illinois, and going to St. Louis from the north would pass right by close.

So was that a yes tlava? I will hold for 4 months, but will be first come, first given. I will keep you posted if it gets given away, and you can let me know if you will be passing through. Thanks!

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David--Yes, thanks, I would very much like to get the oven if possible.

BTW--esp Totem--I did get the pilot quite a bit higher--I discovered that if I press in and turn the little screw under the knob counter-clock wise, it will go more than 1/4 turn--in fact, it will go full around and probably eventually unscrew? This did seem to raise pilot flame, however--maybe to much. But when I push in on the screw it goes out all together....

the problem now seems to be the oven temp--the burner lights, but does not seem to respond to the temp setting on the dial--just keeps burning, even with temp set on 170...

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David--Yes, thanks, I would very much like to get the oven if possible.

BTW--esp Totem--I did get the pilot quite a bit higher--I discovered that if I press in and turn the little screw under the knob counter-clock wise, it will go more than 1/4 turn--in fact, it will go full around and probably eventually unscrew? This did seem to raise pilot flame, however--maybe to much. But when I push in on the screw it goes out all together....

the problem now seems to be the oven temp--the burner lights, but does not seem to respond to the temp setting on the dial--just keeps burning, even with temp set on 170...

Could be the thermo couple probe is bad, looks like a long copper wire going to your gas regulator.

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  • 3 months later...
  • 1 year later...

I've got a similar problem with my Wedgewood 12130 oven (1985 Dolphin) in that the pilot would light and stay lit just fine, but the oven burner would not come on. I tried what Totem recommended above - moving the thermo into the pilot flame - and the oven burner will light, but only faintly regardless of degree setting. Seems a bit fickle too as it does not come on every time. Any other suggestions? Thanks.

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  • 5 weeks later...

Seems common, because I'm in the same boat with the same oven. I couldn't get my pilot to light for the longest time until I moved the little bulb right into the flame. Once that happened I was also able to get the burner to light faintly, kind of like it was on a warm setting, but nothing more. I took the knob apart and I think I put it back together incorrectly because then I could get the burner to light, and it would burn super high on the 170-200 degree setting, then go to barely lit at anything past 250. I took it apart and put it back together correctly, and I'm back to a barely lit burner. This leads me to believe that it's an issue with the control knob itself.

On another note, am I the only one who has no pilot setting on my knob? I just turn it to 170 or so to light the pilot, then eventually the burner lights as well, no holding in to manually flow gas or anything.

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if no pilot control on knob, try cleaning the pilot nozzle with a wire brush or pipecleaner. again as i mentioned the thermo must GLOW red hot so if you have a small pilot flame you may need to pull the thermo out of its bracket to get it into the flame so it may get hot enough to produce the current needed to open the regulator.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I moved that bulb into the small pilot flame but still no oven flame. I have the pilot setting on the Wedgewood. Will go get a BBQ lighter and try that. Heater won't come on either, just makes a faint click.

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If you have the pilot flame going and bulb in it thats great! make sure its positioned so that the pilot flame gets it glowing hot. Also the fact that your furnace is not running makes me wonder if there is a vacuum lock in the gas system... remember, make sure to light a burner on stove top for a minute or two to ensure gas flowing. The most common cause of furnace not igniting is wasp nests and or a faulty sail switch. a simple unbolting of the cover and inspection of the sail switch will tell what you need to know; also make sure your house battery is charge well enough to turn on the blower to catch the sail. as for wasps, a great way to clean those out is a long bottle brush; shove bottle brush into intake and exhaust ports outside and follow up by putting a shop vac up to it to suck out the freshly dislodged former residents.

Back to the oven, if you burners work, and pilot works i'd bet the oven does too ... if you can get that thermocouple hot enough. the thermocouple will actually generate a small voltage that moves a valve in the gas flow regulator at the knob which is why it travels back to it. using a grill lighter to get it hot enough is a good test but be prepared for the WHOOSH and some toasted eyebrows and forearm hairs.

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I got my oven to come on and heat up, but it took a bit more playing with it...I partially disassembled the oven control by 1) removing the knob, 2) removing the 3 screws on the front (which were covered by the oven control knob) and then, 3) pulled out the control and spring. It appeared that the original grease inside had hardened - my oven knob, when pushed in, would very slowly come back out. So, I cleaned and regreased the inerds and reassembled. After that, my oven will light and burn hot. Now, it heats up to 400 degrees F. The only small bummer now is that there appears to be no thermostat control - the temperature control has no effect on how the oven burns. I can live with this because we will probably only use the oven for things like heating up mexican food or other where exact temp is not critical.

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