jritten Posted January 24, 2007 Share Posted January 24, 2007 I just inherited a '78 Dolphin. The (engine) battery is draining if left sitting for a few days. If charged, it will start and run fine, but has a slow drain. Th ebattery has been checked and is fine. I know the previous owner pretty well, and this is a relatively new issue. However, wiring looks rather rigged. Nothing in the back (at least electrically) works. I am wondering if anyone has any ideas, or if anyone knows where to find a wiring diagram or new harness. Any help is much appreciated. I hope to get this thing out and about soon! Thanks again, John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shoprat Posted February 5, 2007 Share Posted February 5, 2007 Sorry I didn't catch this sooner. Go to an auto parts store and buy a chiltons manual for your year Toyota truck chassis. The manual should have a wiring diagram in it. Dissconnect the Positive battery cable at the battery and install a 12 volt test light between the cable end and battery post. If there is a draw, the test light will light. Pull fuses untill the test light goes out. That circuit has the draw. Use your diagrams to further refine the search until the light goes out. I have had to cut wires sometimes to do this. You can also buy into alldata on the internet and download diagrams from them at about 20 bucks a year. Hope this helps some. And good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gulfstream Greg Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 They can be very difficult to find. If you do not have one I suggest buying a Digital VOM test meter (like this one http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...rentPage=family ), one that is capable of at least reading 10 amps. You will have to insert it between one of the battery poles and cable to verify you do have a drain. If so, start pulling fuses and disconnecting stuff. The process of elimination is key. Find a chilton's with a wiring diagram for that year so you know what is there to check. As a side note you did mention that the battery was checked. I got a battery check one place and their machine said it was bad then took it to Sears and their machine said it was good. The ammeter between the pole and cable is the only way to tell for sure. The drain may be in milliamps, enough to drain it down after a few days. Good luck and keep us posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86rader Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 These problems can be a real PITA. Do as has been recommended above. If you still are having problems, I would recommend installing a switch directly on the positive battery lead. They are cheap and not a bad thing to have anyway for vehicles that spend extended periods sitting around unused. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jritten Posted February 19, 2007 Author Share Posted February 19, 2007 Thanks for the advice. Turns out someone put in a CD player, and wired it wrong so there was a constant draw. As for the camper, appears to just have been some corroded conections. Everything appears to be working now, although I did put in some quick disconnects anyhow. As for the camper, now the lights, heater and stove work. THe water pump appears to work, but I am going ot wait until it warms up to mess with that, as I don't want to flush the antifreeze just yet. I have yet to look into the fridge, but that can wait as well. One more quick question.... My propane tank appears to be of the "old" style, the knid they don't want me to use on my gas grill anymore. However it does have a pressure relief valve and a pressure guage. Can I still have this refilled, or do I need to exchange it? If I need to exchange it, I want to use the gas up first, otherwise I will have it filled now. I am hoping ot make the maiden voyage this upcoming weekend. Thanks again for the help! John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gulfstream Greg Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 Most cd radio devices have two power wires. One goes to the ignition (usually yellow) so when you turn on or off the ignition the player follows. The other wire goes to the battery directly (thru a fuse). It supplies the main power to the unit and also keeps the unit energized so that it does not loose any of its radio station and option presets. When the unit is in the off position it should draw a small amount of current. Its enough that after a couple of weeks or more it could drain the battery low enough to not start. A solution is a solar battery charger that sits on your dash. It supplies enough current to help keep the battery charged and the cd units computer happy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jritten Posted February 20, 2007 Author Share Posted February 20, 2007 Thanks. He had it so both wires went to constant power. Also, he didn't actually attach it to anything when he installed it, so it rattled and apparantly disconnected the switch for the blower fan. No wonder the fan didn't work.... Oh well, I got it going now, and I think she's finally ready for the road! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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