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Water Heater Anode Replacement


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I have read that the anode protects the water heater by being a sacrafitial metal that gets eaten instead of your tank. As such it should be replaced every few years. I doubt most people ever replace them but I see them on the rack at the MH parts store. Mine is stuck in there pretty tight and I really don't want to do more damage than good. Mine is in the back of the heater under the dineing seat where i happen to be rebuilding this week. It has a hex head & I have a good 12 point end wrench on it but it woun't turn. Got it soaking with lock eaze at the moment. Does anybody have the hot ticket tip on removing these? The other question is when you reinstall these can you use teflon tape or does the anode need to be electrically grounded to the tank to work properly?

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I think they all came with a plastic plug and people replaced them with an anode but I maybe all wet on that. More then any thing I believe that the drain placement is what kills the tanks there is all ways a inch or so of water and crap that does not drain out, if they just put the drain on the bottom that would fix that I don't mind crawling under it. I think it should be grounded antiseize is aluminum based and it would ground it and make it a lot eaiser to get out again.

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  • 4 months later...

Of interest in my case is the anode appears to have been replaced with a plastic plug that clearly is not original. It's possible that the prior owner had removed the anode plug and just replaced it with a plastic one.

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  • 4 weeks later...

When I got my 1986 Dolpin I am fairly sure the anode had never been repalced. It was stuck fast.

I exposed some of the metal of the tank, around the anode and heated it up with a heat gun. Then touched some ice to the hex head on the anode itself.

The heat expands the metal ofthe tank, the ice cooled and contracts the head. With a little force, it turned and came out.

When I put in the new anode, I added a little Anti-seize compound, the same I use for spark plugs. Therefore I knew if the anode needed to be grounded it would be. Plus with the anti-seize compund, I have a better chance removing the new anode down the road.

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  • 1 year later...

I just replaced mine I used penetrating oil and a lot of force to get my old one out. I also bought a hose attachment to clean out the inside of the hot water heater tank it's like $5 at most rv stores. Per the instructions on the new anode rod it says to use teflon tape so I did and I hope it's right. Another thing I considered is they sell anode rods that have built in drain plugs, I didn't get it but it might be a good idea. I looked at my suburban water heater manual and it recommends draining and cleaning the hot water heater tank every six months.

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