bufbooth Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 Hello All, I will be taking the Toyota out of winter storage this month in order to do some work on her. I have a soft spot around the side window of the overhead cab bunk area, on the drivers side. The soft spot is in front of the window, and is about 8 inches by 6 inches square, but the wall feels solid below it and above it, so it appears to be a window frame leak (I am hoping). Also, the base/floor of the overhead cab area feels solid and no signs (no smell, stains, or warping) of water damage. I am hoping that I all need to do is remove the section of wall in front of the window, about a 2 foot x 2 foot triangle shaped section, and maybe replace/repair a wood beam/brace. Does this sound about right, or is there a lot more going on behind the wall? Would I need to peel back the outer fiberglass or is it possible to do all the repairs from the inside? I have seen a number of overhead cab rebuild pictures, but they seemed to involve a lot more damage, and damage to the base/floor of the bunk. I am pretty sure my damage is isolated to just in front of the window. I just wanted a few opinions to help me determine how much of a job I will be getting myself into. Also, as far as the wall material goes, can I use 1/8 inch plywood or is there a better material to use. I am assuming that I will end up glueing/staple/nail the wall material to any wood beams/braces that I find in the wall. Thanks for any advise you can give. Dennis... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILIA Posted March 3, 2010 Share Posted March 3, 2010 Good question. I've always been curious as to what people used to replace those rotted sections. Wanted to add, could the exterior lights above the window be the culprit? Was looking at mine last week and plan on resealing them all around the camper very soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILIA Posted March 3, 2010 Share Posted March 3, 2010 Oops. Just realized you mentioned the side window. Surprisingly an antenna leak could cause problems in that same area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bajadulce Posted March 3, 2010 Share Posted March 3, 2010 I'm sure you're anxious to cut the soft spot out so you can access what's going on behind. Hopefully it will be something easily spotted once you open everything up and nothing major. Obviously the source of the leak needs attending to. If the area in question doesn't have any "studs" to nail to, you might consider using some sort of backing to slip behind the cutout to support the new patch (similar to how they patch holes in drywall left by door handles ). Gluck, hopes its something minor like an antenna leak as Ilia mentioned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodad Posted March 3, 2010 Share Posted March 3, 2010 Hello All, I will be taking the Toyota out of winter storage this month in order to do some work on her. I have a soft spot around the side window of the overhead cab bunk area, on the drivers side. The soft spot is in front of the window, and is about 8 inches by 6 inches square, but the wall feels solid below it and above it, so it appears to be a window frame leak (I am hoping). Also, the base/floor of the overhead cab area feels solid and no signs (no smell, stains, or warping) of water damage. I am hoping that I all need to do is remove the section of wall in front of the window, about a 2 foot x 2 foot triangle shaped section, and maybe replace/repair a wood beam/brace. Does this sound about right, or is there a lot more going on behind the wall? Would I need to peel back the outer fiberglass or is it possible to do all the repairs from the inside? I have seen a number of overhead cab rebuild pictures, but they seemed to involve a lot more damage, and damage to the base/floor of the bunk. I am pretty sure my damage is isolated to just in front of the window. I just wanted a few opinions to help me determine how much of a job I will be getting myself into. Also, as far as the wall material goes, can I use 1/8 inch plywood or is there a better material to use. I am assuming that I will end up glueing/staple/nail the wall material to any wood beams/braces that I find in the wall. Thanks for any advise you can give. Dennis... hope this helps.working on it dodad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted March 3, 2010 Share Posted March 3, 2010 Thanks for those high resolution pictures. Any info on the nitty-gritty details would be appreciated. Is this typical construction for a 'stick built MH? How did you reattach the siding to the structure? Construction adhesive? Which one? Is that blown in 'Foam in a can'? My experience (in a sailboat) is that it absorbs water like crazy once a leak develops and then holds it there. Not good! Excuse my questions, but I'm currently looking for a good deal on a 'home and am trying to learn what I might face if I buy something with water damage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bufbooth Posted March 3, 2010 Author Share Posted March 3, 2010 Hello dodad and others, Thank you for the detailed pictures, it looks better than what I thought it would, probably worst case is that I may have to open the entire wall area around the window in case I needed to replace/repair a stud. Looks like I should be able to leave the fiberglass siding on. Did you have to remove the fiberglass siding on yours? I know it is not my antenna leaking, it is on the other side of the RV and I removed and sealed it last year. Good thought though. I did reseal my roof and seams last year, I had been delaying the window repair, so hopefully I stopped the leak, or it is leaking around the window, which I will be resealing as part of the repair. Regarding material for the wall, is 1/8 inch plywood the way to go, or is there some sort of composite material to use? Anyone ever use aluminum sheets? I plan on starting the work early next month. Thanks all, Dennis... I Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolphinite no longer here Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 Hello dodad and others, Thank you for the detailed pictures, it looks better than what I thought it would, probably worst case is that I may have to open the entire wall area around the window in case I needed to replace/repair a stud. Looks like I should be able to leave the fiberglass siding on. Did you have to remove the fiberglass siding on yours? I know it is not my antenna leaking, it is on the other side of the RV and I removed and sealed it last year. Good thought though. I did reseal my roof and seams last year, I had been delaying the window repair, so hopefully I stopped the leak, or it is leaking around the window, which I will be resealing as part of the repair. Regarding material for the wall, is 1/8 inch plywood the way to go, or is there some sort of composite material to use? Anyone ever use aluminum sheets? I plan on starting the work early next month. Thanks all, Dennis... I Dennis, I had rot in the same place as yours, but a lot worse. There are pictures of my repairs (not finished yet) in the Toyota-campers@yahoogroups.com photos section under '85 Dolphin rebuild. Aluminum sheets are probably not a good idea. Too expensive, harder to work with and COLD to the touch. 1/8" doorskins (3x7) sheets or 1/8" plywood (4x8) sheets are usually available at the big box stores. The 1/8" stuff can be cut with a utility knife, is fairly cheap and matches the original material in thickness. You may need to slip some 1"x2" framing behind the undamaged paneling so that you have something to attach the new stuff to. Get rid of all the old fiberglass insulation if its wet. You can add more new stuff before closing in the wall. Thickened epoxy glue will hold the 1"x2" framing in place without any fastenings at all. Good luck! John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bufbooth Posted March 4, 2010 Author Share Posted March 4, 2010 John, Thank you for the reply. I will be documenting my work (mainly pictures) to share with others. Later, Dennis... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bajadulce Posted March 5, 2010 Share Posted March 5, 2010 Holy crap there's a lot of "framing" in those pics. Is that stock? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodad Posted March 5, 2010 Share Posted March 5, 2010 Hello dodad and others, Thank you for the detailed pictures, it looks better than what I thought it would, probably worst case is that I may have to open the entire wall area around the window in case I needed to replace/repair a stud. Looks like I should be able to leave the fiberglass siding on. Did you have to remove the fiberglass siding on yours? I know it is not my antenna leaking, it is on the other side of the RV and I removed and sealed it last year. Good thought though. I did reseal my roof and seams last year, I had been delaying the window repair, so hopefully I stopped the leak, or it is leaking around the window, which I will be resealing as part of the repair. Regarding material for the wall, is 1/8 inch plywood the way to go, or is there some sort of composite material to use? Anyone ever use aluminum sheets? I plan on starting the work early next month. Thanks all, Dennis... I well just pulled all out from inside . wood is pallits from work just right size for frameing 3/4 in. liqidenaile for sideing to frameing and chep braid/staple gun. and pull staps window to window well as fare as paniling i will be useing 1/8 wood from lowes . good luck dodad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodad Posted March 5, 2010 Share Posted March 5, 2010 Holy crap there's a lot of "framing" in those pics. Is that stock? thanks no gutted all the way to fiberglass started november and still working on it.here and there weekends Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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