Broken rocker assembly support

[krj]

I'm rebuilding an '83 22r. Haven't rebuilt an engine in a number of years, and never a Toyota, so I'm doing it slowly and methodically, hopeing to learn alot as I go.

Got into the top end yesterday and the first thing I noticed was a crack in the first rocker valve assembly support. Looked slight at first, but once I removed the assembly and the retaining screw holding the support to the shaft, it broke in two pieces. Seems to raise a couple questions; can I simply replace the support with one from a junk yard? If so, what years are compatable with the '83. If not, do I have to replace the entire assembly. Again, if so, what years are compatable? More importantly, what causes a stout piece of metal such as this to crack in half within 2cms of a mounting bolt and what does it say about the condition of the rest of the engine?

My other question is in regards to the water pump. Specifically, is there any way to test it? I'm all for blindly replaceing parts while "your in there", but the water pump doesn't seem that hard to get to and they are not exactly free.

Thanks for the advice, Kevin

[WME]

Are you saying that the front cast iron bracket that holds the 2 rocker shafts is broken??? The only thing I can think of is a badly warpped head or some time it its life it was removed and dropped. The bolts that support the rocker shafts are also the head bolts so removing them and putting them back is sorta iffy on the head gasket.

Do you have any idea of the history???

Water pumps usuall fail at the seals or bearings. Feel for smoothness when turning and check for leaks or weeps. Make sure the impeller is OK.

Good luck

WME

[krj]

Thats correct, the cast iron bracket(front) is broken. Kind of surprised me, but a few mechanics have told me they have seen this before. I still expect to find a warped head.

The history of this truck is I picked it up, barely running, down the road from me for $400, fully intending to rebuild it. It is in rough shape, covered in oil, distributor mounting bolt was missing, etc. What it IS, is a cheap 4x4 standard cab long bed to house my '78 Chinook, and a good winter project.

The water pump seems to spin just fine, I'll take a closer look at it. I'm guessing I should look for leaks in the seal? Can I simply fill it with water and put it upside down? Is the impellar accessable and/or replaceable, such as in an inboard boat engine?

Thanks for the good luck, I'll need it!

Kevin

Are you saying that the front cast iron bracket that holds the 2 rocker shafts is broken??? The only thing I can think of is a badly warpped head or some time it its life it was removed and dropped. The bolts that support the rocker shafts are also the head bolts so removing them and putting them back is sorta iffy on the head gasket.

Do you have any idea of the history???

Water pumps usuall fail at the seals or bearings. Feel for smoothness when turning and check for leaks or weeps. Make sure the impeller is OK.

Good luck

WME

[WME]

A new water pump is only $30 if any doubt replace. The impeller is not serviceable. There is pressure (radiator cap) on the pump when the engine is running so the drip test won't show much.

[krj]

Slowly moving along & I think I've found the reason for the broken front Rocker Arm Assembly Support. Seems the head (as well as the rest of the engine) has been to the machine shop in the past. The front Camshaft Bearing Cap "area" has obviously had some work done. Instead of being held down by the factory bolts, there were bolts sticking out of the head with lock washers and nuts "holding" the bearing cap down. I say holding in quotes because the nuts were barely more than hand tight. I'm guessing that allowed for enough movement in the front of the camshaft to break the front rocker arm assembly support. Being new to the interior engine arena, I have to ask; is this even remotely a legitimate fix? Can this be worked with or is it an obvious northwest Montana 'hold-my-beer-watch-this' fix, in which case I should just replace the head. I'm guessing the later. Hopefully these pictures help explain.

Incidently the bottom of the head looked great. Chiltons said 0.076mm in 15.2cm or 0.150mm over total length. I tried 0.060mm and couldn't get under the straight edge anywhere across the head. Hopeing the top of the block looks as good. Its all disassembled and in order, hopeing to look at it in detail next week. Anything else not discussed in Chiltons (my major info source at this point) I should be looking at or doing.

[WME]

Studs are usually an upgrade over head bolts. The studs go into the block, then the head gasket, then the head, then the rocker support, then torque the nuts.

The idea being that "racers" often take the head off, by using studs there is no wear on the block bolt hole threads.

[krj]

That makes sense. In this case, however, the studs didn't replace the head bolts, they replaced the bolts which hold the Camshaft Bearing Cap to the head. The head bolts are on the outside of these. They don't go through to the block like the head bolts do.

Still a legit fix? I hope so, it would save me a bunch of dough. If it is legit I'm guessing I should torque the nuts on these studs to the same value as the other camshaft bearing cap bolts. Thanks again for your help.