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My '89 Dolphin doesn't like to start after short stops (rest stops, fuel-ups etc)... I need to leave her running or else I'll need to sit tight for about an hour (it's happened about four times in the past two summers)...

Nothing happens what-so-ever when I turn the key and she's hot... (not overheated mind you... simply at operating temp after a brief shut down...

Guessing it's some type of thermal protection in a solenoid.... any takers?

Thanks!

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One of these days it's going it's not going to start even after you wait. There's no thermal protection built into the solenoid. It's probably got an internal fault that causes an open circuit when it's hot.

I am assuming it cranks eagerly with 100% torque when it is working... And it doesn't even click when it doesn't work?If so, the solenoid is the likely culprit. Or possibly bad starter relay.

You can get another solenoid from a starter rebuild shop for 10-15 dollars if you have a starter rebuild shop in your area. And removing the starter is not particularly difficult.

Verify voltage into the starter solenoid and no voltage out of it during the fault condition to verify this failure. Whether you fix the starter for $15 or pay $150 for a new one is up to you.

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When you shut down, your cooling system also stops, building us max heat, your problem could be caused by may things incl. a bad ingnition modual, but befor you start throwing parts, have the truck check out when it is not starting, (fuel?, Spark, ect) to find which system is involved.

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Nothing happens what-so-ever when I turn the key and she's hot...

From his description, he has a no-cranking fault because the starter is not engaging. A no-cranking fault is much more specific than a no-starting fault...

Key sends battery voltage to the solenoid

magentic field repels the slug and solenoid closes, which engages the bendix gear and closes the solenoid contactor

contactor completes circuit through starter

current flows through field windings,through the brushes, through the commutators and through the armature

Magnetic fields create torque and the armature rotates

if torque is sufficient, rotation continues

Fuel and spark are yet to come in the list of things that must happen for the vehicle to "go." I'd hate for him to be led down the wrong path. The part where he said "absolutely nothing happens" eliminates anything after the "solenoid closes" step. And the ignition switch is very unlikely to have characteristics that change with heat.

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  • 1 year later...

Update....

Had starter replaced.... still have the problem with not being able to re-fire the engine while she's hot.... gotta pop the hood and lett'r cool down for about 45min... just get one subtle "*click*" from under the hood and nothing else...

:(

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I had the same issue with our 85 Sunrader. I rebuilt the starting solenoid, it did not look that worn, and yes it did not fix the problem. I started carrying a voltmeter with me so I could measure the voltage at the solenoid when it acted up. When it acted up, I forget the actual voltage, but is was low. With the solenoid disconnected, it was at the full 12V. Hence, there were some dirty contacts somewhere.

I ended up simply putting in a relay that was activated by the original solenoid wire (to coil, and make sure you ground the other end of the coil). I then wired up one of the relay contacts (common) directly to the battery, and the other contact (N.O.) directly to the solenoid.

I have not had a problem since. At least this was my problem.

I hope this helps.

Regards,

AllenL

post-2114-12814217460147_thumb.jpg

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