Trusting my Dolphin for a long trip?

[Bhark54]

We started using our 87 Dolphin a bit. The first couple of local trips (under 100 miles in the Columbia Gorge on the Oregon side) showed some minor problems. We had a fuel leak in the T fitting that splits off the hose for the generator. I replaced the old hose clamps and trimmed off some old hardened and cracked rubber hose to fix that.

There still seems to be some low end hesitation so I put some fuel system cleaner in and will replace the fuel filter before the next trip. I tried to replace the fuel filter myself last weekend but even with the passenger tire off I simply cannot get my hands and tools into the position to remove the top bolt on the fuel filter bracket. I am hoping I can have it done at jiffy lube for a reasonable charge.

I did a compression check and all 4 cylinders are around 175 psi. Since the vehicle has 140,000 miles on it I have to assume it has had some work done in the recent past. I do hear a slight clicking in the valve train so I will probably adjust the rockers. I replaced the spark plugs even though the ones that were in it all looked very good.

The transmission shifts very smoothly, O/D works like it is supposed to, though I can only use it when on perfectly level highway or down hill. It seems to like 55 without O/D on the best when going down the highway. I have no idea when the last time the trans was serviced so I am thinking about having it flushed.

On a 90 degree day it did not have any inclination to overheat going up moderate hills. The cab A/C is pretty weak so I need to change it from R12 to R134, have no idea what that will cost me. The kits are only about $50, but I have no way to capture the R12 and do it myself.

I am thinking about pulling the generator out and putting in an inverter. The generator works fine, it just is heavy and we probably won't use it.

I didn't want to spend $700 for a new roof A/C so I made a window mount and can just use a regular room A/C when we need it. It only takes about 3 minutes to set up or remove. Total cost was less then $150 including a new A/C.

Still have to replace the black and grey water valves, they look ancient and are missing the handles.

We are thinking of driving from Portland to Sacramento next month so that will be a real test (high temps and mountains).

[futar]

I'm assuming you live in OR. You may want to consider a State parks pass. The Federal parks pass gets you half price at their camp grounds. If you're senior or disabled you can get a lifetime Golden Pass for free. Both of them have a gajillion places and the best sites in Oregon.

Here on the coast, you can camp year round.

I was up your way last weekend to see Dick Dale in concert at Dante's in Portland. I left the MH at the Gateway Elks camp ground. The Elks is also something to look in to. Most of them have camp grounds. Full hookup with WIFI was $12/night.

[Bodybagger]

There still seems to be some low end hesitation so I put some fuel system cleaner in and will replace the fuel filter before the next trip.

Dirty fuel filters tend to cause power loss at high RPMs as the delivery pressure drops when the flow is restricted at higher demands. Low end hesitation is likely the combined effect of an ignition issue and poor fuel injector spray pattern. Attention to the plug wires, coil, and distributor should show dramatic improvement.

I tried to replace the fuel filter myself last weekend but even with the passenger tire off I simply cannot get my hands and tools into the position to remove the top bolt on the fuel filter bracket. I am hoping I can have it done at jiffy lube for a reasonable charge.

Remove the hood (it's quite light and you can do it single handedly) and try from the top and the rear. This makes it much easier to get to.

I did a compression check and all 4 cylinders are around 175 psi. Since the vehicle has 140,000 miles on it I have to assume it has had some work done in the recent past.

I would not be suprised if the moving parts are original. The 22R is a tough engine.

The transmission shifts very smoothly, O/D works like it is supposed to, though I can only use it when on perfectly level highway or down hill. It seems to like 55 without O/D on the best when going down the highway. I have no idea when the last time the trans was serviced so I am thinking about having it flushed. On a 90 degree day it did not have any inclination to overheat going up moderate hills.

Probably not a bad idea since these transmissions wear out the bushings before the clutches wear out. Be sure to check the extension housing bushing as wear in this bushing is enemy #1 of these transmissions, more so than heat. After rebuilding mine, I used fully synthetic Mobil 1 ATF and installed an Imperial (Hayden) 242016 transmission cooler that was MUCH larger than the stock version. On temperate days, the tranny runs at 175 deg F, right where it should. I strongly recommend a transmission temp gauge and larger cooler.

The cab A/C is pretty weak so I need to change it from R12 to R134, have no idea what that will cost me. The kits are only about $50, but I have no way to capture the R12 and do it myself.

At 55mph, assuming 4.10 gears and 3rd gear on an A34D, as well as 300rpm slip on the torque converter, you are running about 3300RPM down the road. Your compressor is really kicking and is under a real load. This is not a place to skimp. To convert it and do it RIGHT, you are looking at a system flush to remove mineral oil, removing the compressor and changing the oil in it, a new receiver/dryer, and new TX valve. TX valve is located inside the evaporator cooling unit, which has to be removed from under the dash to be serviced - but that probably needs to be done anyway as they are notorious for getting mouse nests in them. You'll also have to check for Viton o-rings, and compressor compatibility will be a crapshoot. If it contains Viton seals, it's toast and there's no way you'll know until it burns up after a few days or hours of use. Compressor life will be drastically reduced due to a decrease in effectiveness of lubrication and higher head pressure (250-260psi vs 206-212psi) And after all that money and effort, if all goes well, you will realize a 10-20% reduction in cooling capacity. The only advantage is that you'll be able to top off a leaky system yourself - until sale of R-134a is restricted - and the EPA is working on that restriction as we speak.

Though it has not been manufactured in the US since 1996, R-12 is not illegal to purchase and use, and is very much obtainable. Current market price is $23 per pound. A real AC shop has R-12 on hand and can do a basic service (leak check, function check, top off with one pound)for 70-120 dollars depending on location.

I am thinking about pulling the generator out and putting in an inverter. The generator works fine, it just is heavy and we probably won't use it.

Consider an inverter/generator. They are light and quiet, and you can probably find one that will run your AC.

I didn't want to spend $700 for a new roof A/C so I made a window mount and can just use a regular room A/C when we need it. It only takes about 3 minutes to set up or remove. Total cost was less then $150 including a new A/C.

Good idea. You won't have problems with gallons of condensate water building up on your roof. Are you going to remove the old AC and re-roof over the hole?

We are thinking of driving from Portland to Sacramento next month so that will be a real test (high temps and mountains).

You definately need a tranny cooler and temp gauge.