vtchris Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 I am thinking of buying this. The present owner says he checked and that this is not an issue with the 4 cyl standards of this year. Someone on this forum said: "If the axle is not the full floating axle it should be replaced". I need other opinions please. And maybe an explanation as I don't really know what this means (except to look for 6 lugs not 4). What else should I check for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McShank Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 vtchris Go to the "Drivetrain" forums and read the pinned posting at the top. It is a great explanation of the rear axle and why full floating is the safest way to go. Seamus McShank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John H Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 I need other opinions please. And maybe an explanation as I don't really know what this means (except to look for 6 lugs not 4). What else should I check for? Yes, it is an issue with the 4 cylinder chassis as well. The axle should be upgraded to the full floating axle with 6 bolt wheels. Check for leaks around the upper bunk and inside the upper cabinets. Check the roof for cracks in the sealant. Walk on all the floor to check for sags. Open the cabinets that house water tank, sink, etc. and look for evidence of leaks. Check DOT date on tires, if more than 7 or so years replace. Examine the undercarriage for rust, if extensive pass on that one. John H SW OH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bodybagger Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 Someone on this forum said: "If the axle is not the full floating axle it should be replaced". I need other opinions please.You should not be looking for opinions. You should be looking for facts.FACT: the original undersized axle is dangerously overloaded when subjected to the axle load of a motorhome. We're not talking overloaded by 10%... We're talking overloaded by more than 100% FACT: the overloaded axle WILL break. Some broke at 50,000 miles. Some broke at 50 miles. It is not a question of "if," it's a question of "when" and "how fast will you be going when it happens." FACT: when it fails catastrophically, one of the sets of rear wheels will fly off. FACT: The size of the engine does ABSOLUTELY NOTHING to mitigate the danger of an overloaded axle. This is the present owner blowing smoke up your a$$ because he'd rather sell it and put your life in danger, along with the lives of anyone in the vicinity, and make a quick buck unloading it rather than fix it or disclose the danger. And maybe an explanation as I don't really know what this means (except to look for 6 lugs not 4). What else should I check for?Alright.If you read http://www.toyotamotorhomes.com/files/Axle_FAQ.pdf you will find out all you need to know, but to sum it up... The original axle had one bearing that acted like a fulcrum and a shaft inside the axle that acted like a lever to balance the strain from the load. This type of axle is not designed for heavy loads because it exerts a huge cyclic bending force on the axle and fatigues it to the point of failure, right at the point of highest load... the bearing. Of course, sometimes the bearings go out first and give warning of impending axle failure. The the large hub of the full floating axle contains 2 bearings. This allows the load to be balanced between them without creating any bending force on the axle... hence "full floating." It also greatly restrains the wheels from deflecting. This should be a deal breaker unless you can find an axle. I wouldn't drive one across town without a full floater because even it is loaded to its limit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vtchris Posted June 18, 2009 Author Share Posted June 18, 2009 Thanks to everyone, I decided against getting this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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