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AC in cab or RV?


nicktoyota

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I recently purchased an 87 toyota EZryder RV and the cab has AC but not the RV. The AC isn't working. I'm wondering if anyone has an opinion on whether it's better to repair the truck cab AC, or just install a rooftop unit on the RV. Also, does anyone have any recommendations on how to determine why the cab AC isn't producing cold air. I appreciate any help you might offer. I'm a real newbie at this, but love the toyota RV.

Nick

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AC while driving is a huge plus as far as I am concerned. Especially when driving into the sun late in the afternoon. So I would fix it. The roof top air is useless while driving. It needs shore power. Some have run the roof with their generator but that's really not a good way to do it.

A Chilton's manual might give you some basic diagnostic tests to perform.

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Hey Nick, My 91 Warrior is in the shop right now fixing the expansion valve ( whatever that is, I am no mechanic) . My honest mechanic said it is a big deal because the dash must be removed. I guess it will be pricey but we are leaving on a 30 day trip and must have it. he did however tell me that they stick and I should drive around with the air on and it could work its way loose. I only drive it on trips so that didn't work. Good Luck with yours. Ken

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I recently purchased an 87 toyota EZryder RV and the cab has AC but not the RV. The AC isn't working. I'm wondering if anyone has an opinion on whether it's better to repair the truck cab AC, or just install a rooftop unit on the RV. Also, does anyone have any recommendations on how to determine why the cab AC isn't producing cold air.

The charge probably leaked out from non-usage. If you dont use it a few minutes per month, the seals dry out and let the charge leak. A simple check with gauges and bypassing the low pressure cutoff will verify that. Then again, you could have thrown the AC belt.

Take it to a shop that will recharge it with R-12. There's no reason to convert it to R-134a unless the compressor is already burt out.

If you convert, you will need to recover the R-12 that's already in there, new seals, accumulator, and flushing all the mineral oil from the system. You will have a reduction in cooling capacity and have a risk that it will end in compressor failure.

If you stick will R-12, you probably just need to have a pound or so charged in. Though R-12 hasn't been manufactured for a while, it's still available and the going rate is about $20 per pound. Note that R-12 systems are much less sensitive to the problems that plague R-134a systems, which have a very hygroscopic lubricant.

Do not be talked into spending $400+ to convert to R-134a when all you need is an $80 recharge. If they won't do R-12, find a place that will. DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT let them put FR-12 in it (R-416a) as you will have the triple whammy of not being able to recharge it yourself, having an oddball refrigerant, and losing cooling capacity as well. They probably won't even recover the R-12 before contaminating it with FR-12.

Read this...

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/articl...p?articleid=310

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Hello Nick,

I would go with getting the truck A/C fixed.

Also, a powered Fan Vent along with a couple Max-Air vent covers will greatly reduce

the heat in the coach while you are driving, and will pull out the moisture while raining

and during winter storage.

Dennis...

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