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water heater -- 1991 -- what do I need to know/do?


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Hi:

we have a new-to-us Itasca Spirit. All seems to be working more or less fine (for her age), but I'm wondering about the water heater and what it might need done to it. We haven't fired it up yet.

I understand the water heaters have something called an "annode rod", right? And I've read conflicting things about maintaining it: plan to replace it regularly when stuff builds up on it, or pull it out when winterizing and clean it, or ....???

What do I need to know about the care and feeding of a 17 year old water heater?

thanks.

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Some water heaters have anode rods and some don't. BUT they are available for ALL water heaters as an accessory item.

The anode rod replaces the drain plug and the only way to tell if your water heater has one is to remove the drain plug and see if one is attached to it.

Atwood and Suburban use 2 different materials for their anode rods as they use different materials for their tanks.

If you decide to add one (or replace the one already installed). Make sure you get the right type for the brand of water heater your coach has.

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-wate...s/anode-rod.htm

I leave the plug out of my water heater when storing it during winter. I also have a bypass valve system so that antifreeze only goes into the lines and not the water heater during winterizing.

http://www.toymike.com/sunrader/pics/wHeaterBypass1.jpg

http://www.toymike.com/sunrader/pics/wHeaterBypass2.jpg

These kits are available at any RV store

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-pump...zing-bypass.htm

You may also want to look into a winterizing antifreeze insertion valve to make winterizing easier

http://www.toymike.com/sunrader/pics/tankBypass1.jpg

http://www.toymike.com/sunrader/pics/tankBypass2.jpg

These are also available at any RV store and keep you from having to pour antifreeze into your water storage tank as it allows the water pump to pull directly from the antifreeze bottle into the water lines.

Depending on what type of water heater you have installed (pilot light, DSI, DSI/Electric) there are different methods for firing it up.

The easiest are the DSI (Direct Spark Ignition) which have an auto lighting feature just like pilot-less home stoves and water heaters. With these you just turn on your main tank gas valve, go back inside and flip the water heater switch inside your coach. The valve will automatically open and the spark igniter will start to click which will light the burner. You will hear the "woosh" as the burner lights (even inside). If the burner does not light within a set time limit the unit will shut down and you will have to cycle your switch (turn it off then back on) to get it started again.

The standing pilot models are different as you must manually light the pilot light at the water heater. These work exactly like an older home furnace where you turn the gas valve to the "Pilot" location, depress the override switch to get gas flowing out of the pilot tube and hold a match or other flame source over the pilot location until it ignites, then continue holding the valve until th e thermocouple heats up enough to engage the main gas valve supply. Then you turn the shut off valve to the "On" position and the burner will ignite. You will find a butane long nose BBQ lighter is an invaluable item to have at all times.

HELPFUL HINT:

When stopping for the evening turn on your gas at the tank once you are all level and comfortable. THEN go inside the coach and turn on a stove burner and light it FIRST... What this will do is purge all of the air out of the gas supply lines so that it is easier to light other appliances such as your water heater and propane fridge.

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The water heater and space heater tend to get rust in them depending on where you live. It can block the gas nozzles. I take a shop vac twice a year and blow and vacuum the vents.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have an atwood 4 gallon, manual light - my pilot would not stay lit. Blew out the pilot line (from controller to flame) and now the pilot light is larger, keeps the thermocouple warm & it works great.

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