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My Toyota Motorhome


Found 14 results

  1. All is working well, but I'm doing a bit of pre-Spring maintenance since it's sunny and 70º today—topping up my Group 29 with distilled water and cleaning up connections, etc. Anybody know what the three connections would typically be off of the coach battery positive wire, seen in the photo? One circuit breaker is 15A, the other two are 30A. I need to do more meter testing, but only one of them seems to terminate at the 12V panel inside. I assume that one is a charge wire from the Alternator... but what about the third?
  2. Hi 👋. Going to replace my running lights in the next few days. I have 2 questions to ask: 1. I’ve watched a few videos and none use anything to seal the running lights to the fiberglass. Is this recommended, and if so, with butyl tape? Seams like a potential leak waiting to happen if I don’t. I plan on cleaning all the old caulk down to the fiberglass, putting the new LED in place with screws, and sealing around the edge with Dicor lap sealant (non-sag). Sound about right? 2. The lights I purchased are below. Amazon (Partsam). One red and one black wire. Please help me know which wires to connect to which. 😀 Thanks! Julie in WA
  3. I just bought a 1992 Dolphin and have quite a few projects in my future. I have some marker lights that need replacement right away, so I figure instead of replacing with the same lights, I should think about upgrading to LED. I'm trying to be cost efficient and not invest in anything I want to replace later, even though the cost is minimal. My question is, if I were to swap out all of the marker lights in the rear with LED instead, is there anything I would need to do other than simply connect the wires and attach? Eventually, I would want to replace the headlamps and interior lights too. I have read that the headlights would require a new wiring harness and that for an RV, LED lights should have a voltage regulator. I'm not sure what to look for or avoid, or if swapping even the marker lights to LED could involve more than I realize. I'm a newbie, both to owning an RV and also doing this work, so I would appreciate input that explains this in simple terms. Links to low cost lights also appreciated. Thanks!
  4. My 1981 Mini Cruiser won't hold a charge. I think the alternator may not be big enough to push both the engine battery and the house battery. What kind of alternator are you guys running in your rigs to charge both batteries?
  5. What's up guys - I just bought a 1990 Toyota Winnebago and have been working on it daily. Currently, I am replacing the standard light fixtures with LEDs. I was replacing the first fixture and started stripping the two wires to connect to the new LED fixture and as I stripped the second wire, half of the lights went out on one side of the rig while the other stayed on. I now realize that stripping wires with all of the power on was not a good idea..The air vent fan doesn't work either. The RV has a 250 watt solar system attached to it. I checked the wiring with a probe and all of the wiring and devices that are not on (lights, air vent fan) have power coming into them, so they are hot. Any advice on how to get the power back on and what the issue could be? Thanks in advance.
  6. Good afternoon all, I have a 1986 New Horizon and made the monumental mistake if starting what ended up being an almost full roof replacement. My first bit of advice is don't ever do this!! I had to cut all the wires since they are routed through the "trusses" in several different spots. This is where I am at now.... when I removed the old rotted roof I took pictures on my phone but didn't back them up and then lost the phone. The labels I made marking the wires faded from the sun. I am in the process of trying to reconnect all the green and blue wires for the lights and vent fan in the correct order for them to all work. The 2 side reading lights as well as the two lights under the right and left cabinets are working, but the hood light, overhead light above the fridge, light under the sink, bathroom light and the fan in the roof vent are not working. I need to finish this step so I can put insulation, new plywood and the new membrane sheet to replace the old metal roofing. Does anyone have any knowledge on the correct sequence to attach all the wires? The factory set up has many of the double run wire connectors but I have no idea anymore how they go together correctly. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!!
  7. Just bought a '78 Dolphin. The previous owner tried adding stuff he shouldn't have and as I drove from a little town in upper MN, a storm made me realize that more than ever. The wipers would not work, the fuse kept blowing. Thanks to RainX, I drove right through without a hitch. The hitch is, now I want to fix this. Any advice? Thanks! Rockin
  8. I just purchased a 1985 Toyota Dolphin, and have a few projects I want to work on (well, many projects, but a few in the near future). Based on other's experience, what is the best way to run wires though the body of the coach? I want to install a backup camera on it, as well as a solar panel setup, I want to add a Tachometer, the one guide I found said there should be a green wire attached to one of the green cylinders near the corner of the drivers side of the front windshield, under the hood. I found two cylinders, but no unused wires.
  9. I have a 1984 Toyota Sunrader. I have posted in the Electrical forum in the past and everyone was a great help in diagnosing my problems. I come to you all with another problem. The wiring from my main battery is a mess, specifically coming from the positive terminal. I cannot imagine this mess was factory installed, but perhaps it was. I want to clean up the wiring that leads from the battery to the fuse box. I've had issues with power cutting out and I'm almost certain that this wiring nightmare is the source of my problem. Any helpful hints or suggestions before I run new wires? Additionally, what's the thin red wire leading off the positive terminal? It doesn't connect to the fuse box.
  10. My TPS connector is worn, the clip is missing, and the plastic is broken. So I started a search for a replacement pigtail. No luck online, although I wasn't exhaustive. My stepson, a certified Kia mechanic in Redding, CA, said it looked familiar and took my TPS to work with him today. He came home with a pigtail that looks like it was made for my 22re. It is keyed perfectly and the pins match up perfectly. The only drawback is that the spring retaining clip is on the manifold side, making it a bit tougher to get off and on than the OEM connector. At any rate, if you're interested, the Kia part number is TKL06-A2700, it's $12 (not sure if that's retail or his price) , and it's a good part number. It's a connector for the ignition fail sensor - not sure what year or model.
  11. I'm starting to get into the electrical stuff with my rebuild and I am a total tard when it comes to anything electrical. I was wondering if anyone knows what size or gauge or kind of wire I should buy and what kind of connectors I should buy? I don't know yet what I'll do when it comes to wiring the DC fridge/freezer but the wiring I'll be needing now is for the following stuff... -LED dome lights -Fantastic Vent Fan -Tail lights Hmmm, I think thats all. Thanks
  12. So... riddle me this... Anyone know why none of the wiring diagrams for the 1975-1979 20r yotas do not have the wiring information for the electric fuel pump???? I've tried old and new chiltons, p/u and car, autozone online(alldata)... and the results... nothing. So... the question persists... Does anyone have a fuel pump wiring diagram? If not, does anyone have any idea... How this fuel pump system works? Where the fuel relay is? How the oil sender unit is wired in? Where the oil sender unit is located? What are the colors of all these wires? How is the fuel pump resistor wired in? Why does it have the resistor? To slow down the pump? If it runs 100% of the time when the key is on, or is there some RPM/other shut-off switch? So as you could probably tell I am having a problem with my fuel pump. I am the recent recipient of a 1975 Chinook camper which came with a completely none operational fuel pump. I've been trying to diagnose if its an electrical problem or mechanical, but there is no information about the circuit. So far I have... Measured voltage at the fuel pump connector -- 0v one side and a very erratic reading on the other Put 12v directly to the pump -- nothing happened I just dropped the fuel tank last night, but it began to rain and I was unable to perform any more testing. Also it looks like there is a second external fuel pump 'T'ed into to the air vent with a plugged piece of rubber gas line on the other side of the device. Is this a normal set up to feed from a second fuel tank? I'm gonna do a write up about this fuel pump if I figure it out, otherwise I guess I'll write up whatever workaround I come up with.
  13. In my excitement to get my new tails wired, I...uh....cut them off before getting a good look at how they were wired...I'm hoping one of you fine gentlemen, (or ladies) can help me out with this?
  14. Can someone help me to understand what's going on here with the wiring? The pics are from over the cab running lights.... this is at the far left this is the second light the third and this is at the foot of the cabover next to the fridge. what do I do with this??
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